Air Check Valve

[WLS Ruby 93]

Does anyone have a link to the step by step procedure for replacing the passenger's side AIR check valve?

I do not want the re-route procedure where the tubing is cut and a new valve installed in a convenient place. I'd like to keep my car as original as possible.

I'm thinking ahead for a winter project. I replaced the driver's side valve but I still get the code display.

I hit 98,098 miles this past week and I'm still getting 27-30 mpg on the highway with an auto trans and AC on ........ I love that car !!

Thanks.

Keep 'em rollin' :W

Bill

 

[LLC5]

Does anyone have a link to the step by step procedure for replacing the passenger's side AIR check valve?

I do not want the re-route procedure where the tubing is cut and a new valve installed in a convenient place. I'd like to keep my car as original as possible.

I'm thinking ahead for a winter project. I replaced the driver's side valve but I still get the code display.

I hit 98,098 miles this past week and I'm still getting 27-30 mpg on the highway with an auto trans and AC on ........ I love that car !!

Thanks.

Keep 'em rollin' :W

Bill

I don't have a step by step outline for the project, but the intake manifold does need to be removed to access the AIR valve for the passenger side manifold. A lot of times the AIR valves can be "un-stuck" without removing them, you may want to try that first. I have read about moving the oil sender to a different location, but never heard of re-routing the AIR tubing, but I guess anything can be done. Good luck with it.

 

[WLS Ruby 93]

I don't have a step by step outline for the project, but the intake manifold does need to be removed to access the AIR valve for the passenger side manifold. A lot of times the AIR valves can be "un-stuck" without removing them, you may want to try that first. I have read about moving the oil sender to a different location, but never heard of re-routing the AIR tubing, but I guess anything can be done. Good luck with it.

Yep, I tried the WD-40 with compressed air routine three times without success so I guess the valve is really corroded shut. From the looks of the driver's side valve when I took it out I'd say the passenger side valve is in "Permanent failure mode".

Thanks.

Bill

 

[LLC5]

Yep, I tried the WD-40 with compressed air routine three times without success so I guess the valve is really corroded shut. From the looks of the driver's side valve when I took it out I'd say the passenger side valve is in "Permanent failure mode".

Thanks.

Bill

I use CRC, but WD-40 might work also. Just putting in the penetrant won't usually do it, you have to tap the AIR valve with a long thin pry bar or screw driver after the penetrant is installed and pushed in with compressed air. You should be able to see part the AIR valve behind the intake manifold and the firewall with a good flashlight. Put the pry bar on the accessible part of the valve and tap lightly multiple times, it should free up. If not, then a new valve will be necessary.

 

[WLS Ruby 93]

I use CRC, but WD-40 might work also. Just putting in the penetrant won't usually do it, you have to tap the AIR valve with a long thin pry bar or screw driver after the penetrant is installed and pushed in with compressed air. You should be able to see part the AIR valve behind the intake manifold and the firewall with a good flashlight. Put the pry bar on the accessible part of the valve and tap lightly multiple times, it should free up. If not, then a new valve will be necessary.

Yes, a little tapping might free it up. Good thinking I'll give it a try when I get a chance.

I was thinking of trying Seafoam Deep Creep Spray this time around.

Thanks.

Bill

 

[gmjunkie]

Yes, a little tapping might free it up. Good thinking I'll give it a try when I get a chance.

I was thinking of trying Seafoam Deep Creep Spray this time around.

Thanks.

Bill

Use PB Blaster and let it soak a couple hours,It'll free right up!

 

[Toms007]

I'm not getting any codes set, but would it be a good idea to soak these valves down to keep them from sticking? Or don't worry until I have a problem? Preventive maintenance? I'm getting on to 94k with my 01.

 

[WLS Ruby 93]

Use PB Blaster and let it soak a couple hours,It'll free right up!

GMJunkie,

I've got PB Blaster as well so I'll try it.

Do I shoot it through the Driver's side tubing with compressed air as I did before ?

I am not able to see the passenger side AIR valve from under the hood to get at it for a few taps as LLC5 suggested, could be these aging eyes. I have a 4 post lift, can it be seen from underneath ?

Thanks for the help.

Bill

 

[WLS Ruby 93]

AIR check valve

GMJunkie,

I've got PB Blaster as well so I'll try it.

Do I shoot it through the Driver's side tubing with compressed air as I did before ?

I am not able to see the passenger side AIR valve from under the hood to get at it for a few taps as LLC5 suggested, could be these aging eyes. I have a 4 post lift, can it be seen from underneath ?

Thanks for the help.

Bill

I gave the AIR valve a good soaking with PB blaster while blowing it in to the tube on the driver's side then let it stand for 5 hours. Tapped the valve from the driver's side with a hammer and a metal rod a few times. Took her out for a ride to burn off the PB Blaster but the code came back after about 20 minutes.

My next move is to try and vibrate the valve a bit. I am going to use a 1/8 inch metal rod about 18 inches long held on to the valve from the driver's side. The vibration will be caused by an old engraving tool I have held on to the opposite end of the metal rod. Maybe the vibration will work the valve free.

If that doesn't work I have a plan to re-route new tubing and place a new valve out in the open where it can be serviced if ever the need arises again.

I plan on not cutting any of the original rubber tubes or aluminum pipes so if some time down the road a "Purist" wants to reattach the original piping it will all be there.

I'll keep you all posted on the re-route if I need to do it.

Bill

 

[WLS Ruby 93]

AIR Check Valve update

I gave the AIR valve a good soaking with PB blaster while blowing it in to the tube on the driver's side then let it stand for 5 hours. Tapped the valve from the driver's side with a hammer and a metal rod a few times. Took her out for a ride to burn off the PB Blaster but the code came back after about 20 minutes.

My next move is to try and vibrate the valve a bit. I am going to use a 1/8 inch metal rod about 18 inches long held on to the valve from the driver's side. The vibration will be caused by an old engraving tool I have held on to the opposite end of the metal rod. Maybe the vibration will work the valve free.

If that doesn't work I have a plan to re-route new tubing and place a new valve out in the open where it can be serviced if ever the need arises again.

I plan on not cutting any of the original rubber tubes or aluminum pipes so if some time down the road a "Purist" wants to reattach the original piping it will all be there.

I'll keep you all posted on the re-route if I need to do it.

Bill

So far here is what I have tried without success;

1. Sprayed PB Blaster with compressed air into the AIR tube from the driver's side on three different occasions and tapped valve with a metal rod and small hammer each time.
2. Sprayed Sea Foam Deep Creep with compressed air into the AIR tube from the driver's side two times and tapped valve with a metal rod and small hammer.
3. Third and final spray of Sea Foam Deep Creep with compressed air into the AIR tube from the driver's side which has now been sitting for two days.

Tomorrow I will fire it up again and take it for a ride to go get some heater hose.

If this last procedure doesn't work I will disconnect the tubing from the manifold and the opposite end and re-route the hose splicing in a new valve where a normal human can get to it if it ever has to be changed again.

I'm going to plug the old line at both ends and leave it in place in case I ever want to remove the intake and replace the valve to keep everything original.

I'll post when I finish that job.

Bill