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Air compressor Piping

IH2LOSE

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1966,and a 1962 thats almost complete
So I am doing some upgrade to my shop at work. We are adding a Plasma cutting table,

I need to provide clean dry air and have invested in a new compressor and a refrigerated compressed air dryer.

I have to provide 100ps1 at 10 scfm of dry air. I am looking for some interconnecting piping to go from the compressor to the drier ,then from the drier to the plasma table.

I remember last year some one placing a link here to some plastic piping capable of carrying the cfm & Psi
 
IH2LOSE said:
So I am doing some upgrade to my shop at work. We are adding a Plasma cutting table,

I need to provide clean dry air and have invested in a new compressor and a refrigerated compressed air dryer.

I have to provide 100ps1 at 10 scfm of dry air. I am looking for some interconnecting piping to go from the compressor to the drier ,then from the drier to the plasma table.

I remember last year some one placing a link here to some plastic piping capable of carrying the cfm & Psi

Hey IH2LOSE,
I just purchased a Porter Cable air compressor (4 HP, 130psi, 9scfm). The owners manual has a big WARNING statement about plastic pipe. Here is what it says: "Plastic or PVC pipe is not designed for use with compressed air. Regardless of its indicated pressure rating, plastic pipe can burst from air pressure. Use only metal pipe for air distribution lines".

So I think for the sake of safety, use the metal pipe. Plastic pipe may cost less than metal. But is it worth the risk of you or someone else getting hurt?

Just my .02 worth.

:w
H.D.
 
Thanks I dont remember what the pipe was made of but for sure it was discussed in this forum and it was a modular system that you cut the pipe and put a head in then kept going. I think is awas also on one of the tv show a couple years back like hp tv or one of those shows.
 
IH2LOSE said:
Thanks I dont remember what the pipe was made of but for sure it was discussed in this forum and it was a modular system that you cut the pipe and put a head in then kept going. I think is awas also on one of the tv show a couple years back like hp tv or one of those shows.

That would be nice since you wouldn't have to worry about having to thread the pipe and inventing new words when it all doesn't fit and you have to start over again;). Let me know what you find out. I'll be hooking mine up soon.


H.D.
 
The TPI site is suggesting black iron pipe,

I have no problem with the black pipe but the manufacturer of the table we are getting says black iron is out (rust particles) Galvinised is out (metal flakes) they are suggesting copper. I can do copper with brazed joints.

I am going to get prices from the company I have a link to.

I will keep you guys posted
 
Thanks for the link, on another note I agree with IH2LOSE, I've heard that copper is the way to go, get the thicker kind if possible.
 
When I first started reading this thread my first thought was "copper". That's what i put in 17 years ago when I built my woodworking shop. It's easy to cut, not too hard to sweat the joints and relatively cheap. If you've not sweated copper before I will say this....make certain that the joints are thoroughly cleaned and fluxed before soldering.

That stuff they use on HP TV is neat I would consider that as well, I don't know how it compares price wise, but I think it would be a very neat installation.
 
I built my barn 12 years ago,all air lines are schedule 40 1 in. PVC, Coil of 1 in Copper at Air Compressor to isolate vibration!!!! Never had any problems at 175 lb.per sq. in.!!!! I never shut the air off it's on 24,7,365 !!!! It don't leak,and it's there when I need it!!:upthumbs
 
gmjunkie said:
I built my barn 12 years ago,all air lines are schedule 40 1 in. PVC, Coil of 1 in Copper at Air Compressor to isolate vibration!!!! Never had any problems at 175 lb.per sq. in.!!!! I never shut the air off it's on 24,7,365 !!!! It don't leak,and it's there when I need it!!:upthumbs

I agree with Junkie. If this is for a home shop there should be no problem. If you decide to go with copper, use the hard copper tubing not the flexible kind. After you see the price I am sure you will use PVC!!:w

Randy
 
I used Sched 40 in the last garage and made a radiator, vertically mounted, with a drain, from tee and elbow parts. Easier to work with and cheap, no leaks.
 
1/2" schedual 40 PVC is rated at 660 PSI, costs very little and is both CHEAP and easy to assemble correctly, but I use GLUED BRASS THREADED FITTINGS where the connections to the flexible hose go
 
I tend to agree with the PVC group here. Ther is no difference in 200 PSI of Water and 200 PSI of air. From a Physics stand point, they are both fluids and therfore behave the same. If its water tight, then it will be air tight. If PVC is rated at 650 PSI or so then you can be sure it will not fail until well past that point. Probably around 1000+ PSI would be my guess, and I would love to see the air compressor that can pump out that much PSI (you could sand blast a hole through your car with a paint gun LOL). Construction products must meet so many criteria before they are actually accepted and allowed to be marketed that the burst rating on that pipe is grossly underestimated for safety. When a product is engineered, there is always a safety factor included in the design. It is usually a safety facxtor of 2 or more.

So in my humble opinion, if you keep your joints clean and you glue correctly you should be more than safe using PVC. unless of course you get that small block powered air compressor you've always wanted.


Tom
 
Compressor is 3hp with 60 gallons of storage. I piped my garage using 3/4 inch copper down to 1/2 inch copper when it split to go to different sections. I included a filter, regulator, and shutoff valve with 6 quick-connect drops including 1 outside...
 
my buddy did his shop with 1 1/2" PVC. It even adds volume to the tank. He's had one joint fail in 10yrs. Just use the cleaner/primer and fresh glue. At the price of copper now I bet you'll faint when you hear how much.

JS
 

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