Alarm install - this ain't goin' well.

[keefyboy]

Alarm install - It's going better now!

I'm stuck. (hey! first post! )

I'm doing an install on a 1993 auto. Remote start, yada yada.

The problem I have is I *don't* know which one is the VATS module, and I can't figure out what to do to get the accessories to come on from the alarm. Can the VATS just be removed entirely, and just send 12v to the ECM or something?

The alarm is supposed to supply 12v so that the AC, etc. turns on when the remote start cranks up, and I've tried giving 12v to what I thought was the ignition-switched 12v feed, no dice.

Also, which wires do I splice into for the remote start? Unfortunately, I lost my job a while ago (going back into the Air Force, hoo-rah), so I can't justify spending ~$100 for a shop manual just to use this once. I've been able to figure out everything else without one so far, but this alarm installation is kicking my tail.

I found a step-by-step for a 4th gen Camaro, wish there was a C4 guide!

I've located a bunch of 12-ish gauge wires running to/from a mechanical switch on the steering column, from there I've gotten to the starter relay (yellow in, purple out), but I don't understand the relay next to it, it switches between a red and brown + to a blue - wire.

Anyone know what the module behind the radio headunit is? I figured out that the one under it is the airbag computer form the yellow-sheathed wired going to it, but I have no idea about the other one.

Thanks all!

 

[keefyboy]

If I didn't need to, and I didn't have a-LOT of time on my hands right now, it might not be worth it. But then again, working on my car is like therapy, so if I have to spend 50 hours just to dust off the wiring harness, it's all good. But if I did this professionally? Heck no! Slap 'er in there and send her out!

But since I needed to relocate my battery to the rear and had everything torn completely apart, I thought it an opportune time to exorcise the non-functioning (on my car) PKE system and install a real keyless entry / alarm system. The PKE range was quite short, and VERY annoying. I want to actively push a button, not have it passively arm.

I'll have to hunt down the wires you mentioned. I also found another post about defeating the VATS, at least I was able to find the 2 white wires so that I can install a "temporary bypass relay" - you would still need the correct key to start it normally. I could not find the VATS module - the two wires went into a large trunk in the harness and I couldn't follow it from there.

I think I might have to write up a how-to after this.
-keith

 

[Ken]

I think I might have to write up a how-to after this.

That would certainly benefit the community Keith. :cool

 

[Magmotor]

Here's what's being shown on a '93 for the anti-theft. #18. GM Partsdirect has it listed as a: "Body Malfunction Computer"....#16193458....whatever that means it's behind the radio.....

 

[keefyboy]

Hoo-ray!

I GOT THE REMOTE-START PART FIGURED OUT! :dance

Not to worry, I'll still do a how-to.
But to wire-up the starter circuit so that it stays running ANd has the A/C going, you have to hit 4 wires and hook the correct resistor to th VATS wire.

Here's how I tested:
1) insert resistor into VATS connector. It's 2 white wires sheathed in orange tubing, and at the connector changes to different colors.
2) cut a small section of insulation off 3 of the 12 gauge wires that are connected near the top of the steering column at the mechanical ignition switch. These wires run to the kneepad area, so no need to get up all inside the dash, but you have to take off the knee-guard if you want to make this easier. :gap The three wires are: Orange, Brown, and Pink.
4) run + wire to the three wires, and the dash and A/C should come on. You should also hear the fuel pump turn on briefly. I'm not 100% sure about brown, but it shows voltage in start/run, so I gave it + voltage. The orange and pink are required.
5) Last, *BRIEFLY* connect a + wire to the purple wire at the starter relay. If you got the right resistor and wires, the car should start. But I do mean BRIEFLY, you shouldn't have to turn it over alot, as my car starts almost instantly with the key, this should be the same.

One check if it doesn't start, disconnect EVERYTHING, then try to start it with the key. If you got the wrong resistor or got it connected badly, the car will not start with the key for about 4-5 minutes.

No, this isn't a how-to, just trying to share what little I figured out so far. :gap I was pretty happy when I got the A/C to turn on, and then when it started and ran, I wanted a beer!

Next is the door lock circuit and dome lights.
-keith

 

[ediconu]

That's great information. If/when my key fob dies and I have to get a new one, I may go for a new alarm system with remote starter. The reason I haven't done it yet is because I couldn't find a good easy how-to. Since you're creating the how-to right now, I will probably use it next spring or so.

Mike

 

[keefyboy]

Another update!
(yeah, sorry it's been awhile, but I've either been sick, unmotivated due to this unemployment business, or it's been too cold (whine, whine!))

OK people, this time we move on to the power door locks.
Remember, I'm on a '93, but this *should* apply to all C4s.

First, go to this URL and look at the section on 5-wire door locks, which is what the Corvette has: http://ccs.exl.info/locks.html

You will have to build a relay combo described in the diagram, 2 relays with the wires going to the places indicated.

NOW, here's the install part:
1) Tools! You WILL need an electrical probe (the kind with a needle tip and a bulb that indicates current flow), wire cutters, recommend an automatic wire stripper, razor and electrical tape.

2) You will also need butt splicers and a crimper OR soldering iron / solder and heat-shrink tubing if soldering is desired. But since we're not dealing with carrying a fine signal (audio, etc.) but large voltage swings (on / off), crimping is OK as long as it's solid, and it's also a really cramped area we have to work in. BUT, if you feel OK swinging a 250 watt iron around wires packed in like tight spaghetti, go ahead! :gap

3) The wires we need to hit are in the driver's side footwell area. You should already have the panels removed where the steering column is completely visible. Locate the bundle of wires that is comming from the driver's side door. You will need to (CAREFULLY!!!) cut the electrical tape away (do *NOT* cut / nick / scrape the yellow sheathed wires, those are for the airbag circuit!).

4) Locate the light blue w/white stripe wire and the 3 (or so) black w/white stripe wires. Here is where the probe is needed: clip the probe to a good ground, and stab the blue / white wire. Now holding the probe into the wire, hit the door lock switch to "lock" the doors. The probe light should flash. Now, repeat the process for the black / white wires, but this time, stab the wire and hit "unlock" on the switch. When you have them located, mark the Light Blue w/White stripe "LOCK" and the Black w/White stripe "UNLOCK".

5) Here's the point where you're comitted:
Cut the two wires, at a middle point where you have equal amounts of reachable wire on each side, enough to strip and crimp or solder each side. Remember this part: The cut part going into the door is the "SWITCH" side, and the cut part going up under the dash is the "SOLENOID" side.

6) You should have the 2 relay combo built. One relay is designated "LOCK" and the other (of course) "UNLOCK". If the link above disappears, here's how the two are connected. Wire "LOCK" relay connections #87 and #85, and "UNLOCK" #87 and #86 all together.

7) Run the 4 connected together wires to 1 wire. This wire is connected to +12v, and there must be a fuse that is equal to the door-lock fuse installed. Optionally, you can run the 1 wire to the fused side of the door lock power wire which will supply the needed fusing. It's IMPERATIVE to fuse this because if a relay sticks open (or a wire grinds through and shorts out), you risk a fire.

8) The #30 connection for each relay goes to the "SOLENOID" side of the cut. #30 "LOCK" goes to the Light Blue w/White stripe, and #30 "UNLOCK" goes to the Black w/White stripe wire.

9) The "LOCK" relay #86 goes to the alarm lock negative pulsed ground. The "UNLOCK" #85 goes to the alarm unlock negative pulsed ground. It must be pulsed or momentary and not latched or constant. IF your alarm only has positive lock and unlock, then run "LOCK" #85 and "UNLOCK" #86 to ground instead of the +12v wire, #87 for both relays will still get +12v.

10) FINALLY, (does he ever shut up? :gap ) connect the "LOCK" #87a to the "SWITCH" side of the Light Blue w/White stripe wire. The "UNLOCK" #87a goes to the "SWITCH" side of the Black w/White stripe wire.

Tie the relays and wires down so they won't move around or get in the way, either zip ties or 3M Super33 tape will work.

This isn't as hard as it may seem, I just tried to cover as many details as possible. I tried not to assume too much foreknowledge, but if you know of a better way, have at!

Also, if (like me) you had to hit the lock switch several times to get the doors to lock / unlock, take off the door panel, etc, and shoot some WD-40 or grease on all moving parts.

The dome light circuit appears to be the Black w/Orange stripe wire comming from the driver's side door, but how the alarm is supposed to monitor or activate it, I'm still working on.
-keith

 

[keefyboy]

Oops. I lied. Sorry.

Well, that *worked*, but one thing I forgot about - the factory alarm...

Seems that if the door is locked with switch, key, or alarm and then the door is shut (or the door shut / open switch is pushed in) and then you use the switch to unlock it, the factory alarm will go off until you use the door lock key to unlock the door.

BUT! There is a work-around, that doesn't disable factory protection.

There is a Green wire comming from the driver's side door into the footwell area. Tap into this wire and run a wire to the "UNLOCK" relay pin #85, which is also connected to the alarm unlock pulsed negative. It is probably a good idea to run a diode between the tapped wire and the #85 pin, just so the +12v comming from the #86 pin doesn't find a ground backwards through the green wire, and a diode will prevent this.

It doesn't take much of a ground pulse at all to the green wire to stop the factory alarm as my probe stabbed into the wire was enough to shut the horn up.
-keith

 

[keefyboy]

OK! Time for more updates (I was more productive today :gap )...

For the dome (interior) light control:
Passenger side footwell - there are 5 relays, one group of 3, one group of 2. We're interested in the group of two, and the left relay (closest to the driver) of that group.

The wiring breakdown is this: It's a ground switch, meaning if you supply +12v, nothing happens. The two wires we're wanting are the white wire and the black w/grey stripe (I need to double-check, going off my pathetic memory!). If you supply ground to the white wire, the interior lights will come on without the relay, and if the black w/grey wire is grounded, the relay will energize, also turning on the lights.

Why not just run the alarm interoir ground wire to the white wire? Well, the lights draw WELL more than the 300 miliamperes that my alarm can handle, and the relay draws far less than that, so for the alarm to switch interior lights, it's better to have the relay do the work. (you should always have something (or someone) else do the work, right? :Silly ) So, run the alarm interior lights ground wire to the grey wire. NOTE: not the "dome light supervisor" wire or the wire that detects the interior lights turning on, but the wire that provides courtesy illumination.

For the door open switches, there are 2 different circuits, one for each door unfortunately. Unfortunate because we can't just tap the driver's side and call it a day, you have to tap both sides and also diode isolate each so that positive voltage doesn't backfeed to the other door circuit. You also can't tap into the + side of the interor light relay, because if the alarm switches courtesy lighting on, then it will also think a door has been opened.

The wires we need are:
Driver's side - Black w/Yellow stripe
Passenger side - Black w/White stripe. There are 3 of these comming from the passenger door, so you will have to probe each to find out which is the door open switch. Just clip the probe to a +12v source and stick each Black w/White wire. When the probe lights up, press the door switch. If the light goes out, you found the correct one.

How to wire it:
Tap each wire and run these tap wires to where you will connect to the alarm door wire. Connect a diode to each tapped wire, band side toward the tapped wire. Connect the other ends of the diodes to the alarm wire. The alarm wire must supply +12v, the manual might say something like the wire is for ground-switched door switches. This wire also might be called the "dome light supervisor" or some such.

Gotta take the kids to bed now...
-keith