Alignment Specs

[Donpat]

Paul
Please post the alignment specs again for an 06 convertible The car is used for normal street driving. I am interested in maxium tire wear.
Thank you very much.
Don

 

[BigJimZ16]

Paul
Please post the alignment specs again for an 06 convertible The car is used for normal street driving. I am interested in maxium tire wear.
Thank you very much.
Don

I posted this on the other forum too, Pfadt Racing Website, the Performance Street setting is what you want...

http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-...09/Corvette-Alignment-Guide-Rev-9.12.2011.pdf

 

[Hib Halverson]

The "performance street" alignment suggested on Pafdt's web site is not what the OP needs.

He asked about normal street driving and maximum treadlife. A performance street alignment will not provide that.

Before we can suggest an alignment, we need to know if this 06 Convertible is a Z51 or not.

 

[Donpat]

It is not a Z51. Thanks

 

[gmjunkie]

For Maximum Tire Ware I set up C5's and C6's about the same depending the roads it's driven on.
I got 55,000+ miles out of the first set of Kumho ASX All Seasons on my 03,Looks like I'll be getting about the same on the second set!

Lt Front 0* Cam,6.5* Caster
Rt Front 0* Cam,6.6*-6.7* Caster : Depending crown of roads it's driven on.
Toe Front 1/32 in.
Lt Rear 0* Cam
Rt Rear 0* Cam
Toe Rear 0-1/64

The car will steer easier than factory settings.
WARNING!~! These settings WILL make the car a handful in excess of 125-135 MPH!~!!!

If the car feels too light in the front after alignment,You can take the front toe in up to 3/32 and it will make feel a little heavier!

Happy Motoring!

 

[Hib Halverson]

Junk's numbers are a good place to start and then, after that, I'd watch the tire wear then adjust pressures and camber accordingly.

 

[gmjunkie]

Junk's numbers are a good place to start and then, after that, I'd watch the tire wear then adjust pressures and camber accordingly.

Forgot to mention,I run 34Lbs Front,29Lbs Rear. I get a nice flat uniform tread ware!

 

[vett boy]

For all those people who have requested a good alignment spec from me ,I've had to work though some issues and haven't been around .The spec that junkie has given is basically what I use and I recommend it .The only thing I'd take exception to is the speed range ,the C6 doesn't get funky until ya hit about 140-150

If you live in the snow country with pot holes consider an alignment every year or so ,it's not that expensive .

 

[A Marsh]

For Maximum Tire Ware I set up C5's and C6's about the same depending the roads it's driven on.
I got 55,000+ miles out of the first set of Kumho ASX All Seasons on my 03,Looks like I'll be getting about the same on the second set!

Lt Front 0* Cam,6.5* Caster
Rt Front 0* Cam,6.6*-6.7* Caster : Depending crown of roads it's driven on.
Toe Front 1/32 in.
Lt Rear 0* Cam
Rt Rear 0* Cam
Toe Rear 0-1/64

The car will steer easier than factory settings.
WARNING!~! These settings WILL make the car a handful in excess of 125-135 MPH!~!!!

If the car feels too light in the front after alignment,You can take the front toe in up to 3/32 and it will make feel a little heavier!


Happy Motoring!

How different would the specs be for a Grand Sport Coupe?

 

[Hib Halverson]

How different would the specs be for a Grand Sport Coupe?

If best tread life is the goal, the numbers given above are a good start be it a C5, C6 base or C6 GS.

 

[A Marsh]

If best tread life is the goal, the numbers given above are a good start be it a C5, C6 base or C6 GS.

Good stuff

Thanks

I can easily give up the last two percent of grip for better tire wear.

 

[Huskerman]

How different would the specs be for a Grand Sport Coupe?

After taking in the specs off of several of the sites suggested earlier this year on the CAC, the alignment tech I have used for years ended up with these numbers for my 10 GS Coupe.

Front Caster Left = 7.64* Initial was 7.98
Front Caster Right = 7.75* 8.10

Front Camber Left = -1.17 Initial was -1.16
Front Camber Right = -1.22 -1.27

Front Toe Left = -0.01 Initial was 0.16
Front Toe Right = -0.01 0.21

Rear Camber Left = -0.90 Initial was -0.87
Rear Camber Right = -0.76 -0.81

Rear Toe Left = .00 Initial was -0.15
Rear Toe Right = .00 -0.14


The car tracks well at speed with very little tendency to wander but I have only run about a 1000 miles on the tires since the realignment. After 4K miles they had been showing inside wear. Nitto Invo's.....

 

[Hib Halverson]

You didn't say what the duty-cycle of your 10 GS Coupe might be. If you're a track rat and replace tires frequently, that's a good street/track alignment. If you're a street driver only and you seldom drive aggressively, with -1.17 and -1.22 in the front and -0.9 and -0.7 in the rear, your car will likely wear out the inside of both its front tires before other parts of the fronts and the rears are worn.

 

[gmjunkie]

If you're a track rat and replace tires frequently, that's a good street/track alignment. If you're a street driver only and you seldom drive aggressively, with -1.17 and -1.22 in the front and -0.9 and -0.7 in the rear, your car will likely wear out the inside of both its front tires before other parts of the fronts and the rears are worn.

It'll probly scallop the insides too,give them another 4000 miles and he'll have a beautiful set of "Rumble Craps"!~!!

 

[Hib Halverson]

"Rumble Crap"??

Hmmm....

I looked at the tires on those sanitation containers for automated refuse collection programs and that name was embossed on the sidewalls.

Also, heard the Rumble Crap "GT Super-S" is OE in the new Viper.

Maybe that's why the ZR-1 cleaned its clock at Laguna Seca in that recent magazine test.

 

[c4c5specialist]

HI there,

Lets be clear on a few points.

Toe, in the positive sense, is critical to directional stability. 0 toe can create a little wander, whereas +.1 degree will assist in not having to constantly correct your steering input.

Camber, is more for cornering faster, and can create alot of tire wear as indicated above. If your tracking, you want MORE negative camber to enable faster cornering. In street driving, its not really that necessary.

CASTER, in the positive range, will create BETTER high speed stability with higher numbers. For example, +7.0 is better than +6.0 for high speed stability.

What NOONE talks about is TRIM HEIGHT. When a vehicle has an alignment done, ESPECIALLY CORVETTE, trim height or RIDE height MUST be checked and verified to be within specification. If too low, bump steer and other ride quality concerns can unsettle the vehicle when driving agressively. If the suspension cannot travel correctly, NOTHING will work right when going over rough roads.

All specifications interrelate and this fact cannot be ignored. Trim height validated FIRST, then proceed with 4 wheel alignment.

Allthebest, Paul

 

[K & B Special Products]

Alignment

HI there,

Lets be clear on a few points.

Toe, in the positive sense, is critical to directional stability. 0 toe can create a little wander, whereas +.1 degree will assist in not having to constantly correct your steering input.

Camber, is more for cornering faster, and can create alot of tire wear as indicated above. If your tracking, you want MORE negative camber to enable faster cornering. In street driving, its not really that necessary.

CASTER, in the positive range, will create BETTER high speed stability with higher numbers. For example, +7.0 is better than +6.0 for high speed stability.

What NOONE talks about is TRIM HEIGHT. When a vehicle has an alignment done, ESPECIALLY CORVETTE, trim height or RIDE height MUST be checked and verified to be within specification. If too low, bump steer and other ride quality concerns can unsettle the vehicle when driving agressively. If the suspension cannot travel correctly, NOTHING will work right when going over rough roads.

All specifications interrelate and this fact cannot be ignored. Trim height validated FIRST, then proceed with 4 wheel alignment.

Allthebest, Paul

Paul,
What are your recommendations for a ZR-1?

 

[c4c5specialist]

Paul,
What are your recommendations for a ZR-1?

Hi there,

If the vehicle is street driven, then certainly you can bring the camber up more towards 0. That will help extend the life of the Michelin tires. I do this alot on the 2011 Centennial edition with the SPORT CUP tires as they are very soft and wear quickly.

However, I would leave the toe setting and the Caster setting as close to stock as possible and VALIDATE your ride height!

Allthebest, Paul

 

[Huskerman]

So if we are dealing with a stock vehicle that has not been lowered or messed with......what would change the ride height?

 

[c4c5specialist]

So if we are dealing with a stock vehicle that has not been lowered or messed with......what would change the ride height?

HI there,

The key with wheel alignments, ride quality, and correct handling when driven quickly is that nothing is missed.

Anything can happen, springs settle, bushings move or wear out so trim height checking only takes few minutes but is critical to not forget it.

Allthebest, Paul