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Another Way To Connect A Battery

Joined
Mar 9, 2009
Messages
1,026
Location
Yemen
I have always hated the miserable top post batteries with their "clamp type" cable terminals. The side post design is a big improvement but it's hard to get to the side terminals when you need a jump. A couple of years ago I thought I'd try something a little bit different. I'd put 3/8" NC brass studs into my top posts then used side post terminals with just an ordinary 3/8" NC nut to secure them.

The first picture shows 5/16" brass studs that I later changed to 3/8" studs and the "clamp on" side post terminals (picture #2) came from my local True Value. In just a matter of seconds I can connect or disconnect my battery using a 9/16" end wrench. In picture #2 you'll also see the three 1-1/4" vent holes I drilled in the rear of the battery compartment to vent the hydrogen fumes to the outside.
 

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The really nice thing about it is the fact the 3/8" nuts only need to be snugged up. I made this modification about 2 years ago and so far it has been trouble free. I got the idea from the deep cycle batteries that all have 5/16" studs sticking out of their posts. I figured it it worked good enough for golf carts then it should work for my '71.
 
Ok, I know I may regret asking this, but what exactly about the top mount cables is inferior to the side cables? Why are side terminals better?
 
With the three 1-1/2" holes in the rear of the battery box my '71 will sink faster if I drive it into a lake but the holes vent the hydrogen gas out. I used a 90 degree angled drill adapter to be able to drill those holes using a hole saw. With the Astro Ventilation the battery box remains fume-free as I'm driving.
 
Ok, I know I may regret asking this, but what exactly about the top mount cables is inferior to the side cables? Why are side terminals better?

If you ask me neither are perfect. So just go with what you like.

I think toobroke may be over-estimating the amount of hydrogen generated while charging a battery though. But it is his car, of he wants to drill a few holes who are we to tell him not to.
 
I have always hated the miserable top post batteries with their "clamp type" cable terminals. The side post design is a big improvement but it's hard to get to the side terminals when you need a jump. A couple of years ago I thought I'd try something a little bit different. I'd put 3/8" NC brass studs into my top posts then used side post terminals with just an ordinary 3/8" NC nut to secure them.

The first picture shows 5/16" brass studs that I later changed to 3/8" studs and the "clamp on" side post terminals (picture #2) came from my local True Value. In just a matter of seconds I can connect or disconnect my battery using a 9/16" end wrench. In picture #2 you'll also see the three 1-1/4" vent holes I drilled in the rear of the battery compartment to vent the hydrogen fumes to the outside.




You realize that you still have a top post battery, right?


What about the side post design is a "big improvement"?

What makes a top post design "miserable"? Which of course you still have in your vehicle.
 
If you ask me neither are perfect. So just go with what you like.

I think toobroke may be over-estimating the amount of hydrogen generated while charging a battery though. But it is his car, of he wants to drill a few holes who are we to tell him not to.



The three holes are probably a good idea for his vehicle, so that when he does drive into a lake it will sink.


C'mon toobroke, tell me why you dislike top post battery's, or clamps, or both. There must be a good reason since almost everyone else is in disagreement, including the OEM manufacturers.
 
The three holes are probably a good idea for his vehicle, so that when he does drive into a lake it will sink.


C'mon toobroke, tell me why you dislike top post battery's, or clamps, or both. There must be a good reason since almost everyone else is in disagreement, including the OEM manufacturers.


It's not the top posts that have bothered me but rather the clamp-type cable terminals that squeeze on the post. Moisture and corrosion gets inside the connections and it requires a puller or big pliers to get the terminal off. My method uses the brass stud and end of the post for the connection and it only takes me about 5 seconds to disconnect it. It was the deep cycle batteries with their 5/16" studs that gave me the idea. As the OEM terminals had already been cut off my cables I just picked up some aftermarket lumberyard side post terminals and clamped them on. I think it's a pretty slick idea because it's so easy to do and it works so well.
 
It's not the top posts that have bothered me but rather the clamp-type cable terminals that squeeze on the post. Moisture and corrosion gets inside the connections and it requires a puller or big pliers to get the terminal off. My method uses the brass stud and end of the post for the connection and it only takes me about 5 seconds to disconnect it. It was the deep cycle batteries with their 5/16" studs that gave me the idea. As the OEM terminals had already been cut off my cables I just picked up some aftermarket lumberyard side post terminals and clamped them on. I think it's a pretty slick idea because it's so easy to do and it works so well.



Yeah I guess you are right, drilling holes into top post battery posts and installing studs to attach side terminal posts to it is much easier and cheaper, with less chance of voltage drops, than regular maintenance of your battery terminals and installing new correct top post terminals if they are bad. Of course top post terminals do not require a puller or big pliers to get off even if they are corroded badly. I really like your idea of going to a lumberyard to buy your high quality aftermarket side post terminals to mount to your "no possible voltage drop" studs (which I am sure are drilled perfectly straight and secured and sealed so that they will never come loose or corrode internally) sticking out of the top posts of your battery, but what do I know since I am ASE certified?
 

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