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Anyone ever have or put in Dynomax long tube ceramic coated headers?

zackm58941

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2004
Messages
67
Location
Rochester, New York
Corvette
1980 Corvette
Hi, I am thinking about getting a set of headers for my 1980 vette and I got a few questions if nobody minds. I'm pretty sure that I want the ceramic coated headers because of the heat and rust protection but is there really that noticeable of a difference versus regular un-coated headers interms of heat reduction? Has anyone had any experience with dynomax's headers at all and how good are the gaskets and bolts that come with the kit? I have their ultra flow mufflers and I'm very pleased with the quality and sound but just wanted to double check before spending the $$$. One part of the installation that I'm just a little fuzy on is cutting the front y-pipe to the correct length to fit up the headers/collectors assembly. Could anyone tell me the best way to do this just just so I can get the basic idea. One other thing I've been woundering about is that A/C compressor bracket that is required for the instalation of headers, does anyone know the part number from Summit for that or should I just call them? These are the ones that I am looking at, http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=WLK%2D86008&view=257&applid=%7B45716A3A%2DB4EF%2D4363%2DAEDC%2DE533B8F9310C%7D#largerimage . Please feel free to jump in and let me know what you think about all this, I'd be very apprecative for any help given this is my first headers install.

Thanks,
Zack
 
I installed Dynomax's ceramic-coated headers on my 77 earlier this year.
I don't drive the Vette everyday, but so far the ceramic coating is holding up beautifully.
I have not had any heat problems at all since the change as well.
The gaskets are still in tact, so no problems there, either.

The AC bracket JEGS sent did NOT fit with my set up. I asked them what bracket, and they sent one. I have some custom made brackets on there now. They attach to the block now.

I have heard many people suggest different bolts.. www.stage8.com in fact.
I haven't had any issues with the bolts from the kit.

I went with true dual pipes out the back, so I cannot comment on the Y-pipe.

It was a good deal, all around. I'd do it again.
But this time I'd know that you'd have to remove the starter, and bring those suckers up from underneath the car. SOO much easier.
 
Here is some info from my 81 install of the dynomax ceramic



The starter need not be removed, there is plent of space to work around it.

If you come from teh bottom on the passenger side, and i suspect you will, you will most likly will need to remove teh oil dipstick tube. The bolt holding the dipstick tube is a pita to put back. Expect to cuss at it for 5 minutes or so.

On the drivers side, I only had to loosen the alternator adjusting bolt, remove the belt and pull the allternator towards teh fender.

When removing the old Y pipe, make sure you are not under it when you remove the hanger just in front of the cat. It will fall.

You should also be able to pull both manifolds out of the top. Watch the heat riser, as it could fall off the manifold and onto your fender.

I believe for some strange reason the drivers side is actually easier.

Even if you are going to bolt the headers via temp pipe until you can get your system installed, it is a must to fire up the car with open headers as they sound super cool.

Finally, I had to richen up the carb after installing the headers.

_____________________

Its a very easy install, about 3 hours. As to the cut, some people get some flex exaust pipe to connect the headers to the old exaust pipes.

GET Stage 8 bolts and high quality gaskets (i used percey alluminum) for both the head and pipe sides of the header. The paper gaskets burn up and the stock bolts back out. I tighted my bolts several times to no avail. Your header gaskets should match the header, not the exaust port on the head. Ie, round gasket for a round header, and square for a square header.

also looks like you have a stick, so you will need to mess with the z bar(is that whats its called?) Mine is an auto, so i'm sure someone else will comment on that.

Took about 3 hours to do mine. and by all means, fire it up with open headers, as the sound is fantastic.

I'd do it again in a heart beat.
 
Thanks for the reponses guys! This will deffinetly help me out when I get to put them in. I have heard that there are specific break-in instructions for the ceramic coated headers, is this true? What type of gaskets are used with the stock manifolds, paper or metal? I'm just trying to figure out how much better metal gaskets are than the paper in terms of sealing abilities, durability and the extra cost involved. Also, I still have the stock Quadrajet 4 barrel on the car, does anyone know who sells jet kits for it because I dont believe I remember seeing any A/F adjustment screws on it. 81 Corvette, what are you talking about when you said z-bars? There should be no need to adjust anything for the manual transmission so I'm not exactly sure what your trying to say. Oh, about that A/C bracket 81 Corvette, what did you use for that? Thanks everyone.
 
Do a search on headers. I seem to recall that you have to disconnect the linkage (zbar?) to install the driver side. Only a vague memory, as I have the auto and didn't need to worry about it.

I've removed my AC so I didn't have to worry about the bracket. You may be able to reuse the bolt on there, but the variance between the flange thinkness may be different, thus, not allowing reuse. I don't know for sure.

Stock gaskets on the 81 were steel. I highly recommend using something besides paper. Percey's alluminum can be had for $35 at autozone or from summit or jegs. Or you can try the paper since they come with the headers, then change them if they burn up. Its and easy enough swap to make. Same thing with the stage 8 header bolts. You can always swap them in later.

I never heard about a break in period related to the ceramic. The only break in item I recall is torque of the header bolts. They WILL loosen up after a couple of heat cycles and need to be re-torqued. (stage 8 stops them from coming loose)

I dunno anything bout q-jets.

Too bad you arn't closer, I'd pitch in a wrench.
 
Hey, thanks for the offer. I'm just trying to get as much information as possible before I actualy do this so I really do appreciate everything you all had wrote! Thats a good point you have 81 Corvette, I can always swap in new bolts and gaskets easy enough and seeing that I am away from school and the car doesnt get driven that much when I'm away shouldnt pose any problems. I'll post back here when I finish the instal when I'm home Oct. 15 weekend. Still if anyone wants to add anything else in that might come to mind then be my guest.

Thanks again,
Zack
 

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