Anyone ever use Bar's Leaks Radiator Stop Leak?

[Dave Z]

Warmed up the car for about 10 mins. just a few days ago, only to come out and discover coolant leaking from the driver's side of the radiator. I can't really gauge how big a leak as I really can't see it, only that it's dripping. The puddle was about 6"x6" and leaking fairly constant until I shut it down. Then it almost immediately stopped. Won't have the funds to replace the radiator (I believe it's original) until late next month. I figure I'll go ahead and replace the water pump and clutch fan too since I don't know how old they are. In the interim, it has been suggested that I use Bar's Leaks Radiator Stop Leak so I can still enjoy the car in the short term. I know it's a band aid, but has anyone had any experience with this product?

 

[Hib Halverson]

Bar's Leak, or other products of that type, can provide a temporary fix for a limited amount of small leaks. These sealers work by coating the entire cooling system with a pliable coating that plugs small leaks. The problem is that coating also interferrs with the transfer of heat from the metal parts to the coolant so....your leak might be fixed but the cooling system is now less efficient. On a cooling-challenged car like a Vette, that's the kiss of death. I'd never use the stuff. I'd fix the leak properly.

That said, a lot of people use use these sealers. One thing you never want to do is apply the product more than once. In this instance, the "if some is good more is better" rule doesn't apply. All a second application does is further hamper cooling action but usually not fix a leak that wasn't fixed the first time.

 

[lnirenberg]

Warmed up the car for about 10 mins. just a few days ago, only to come out and discover coolant leaking from the driver's side of the radiator. I can't really gauge how big a leak as I really can't see it, only that it's dripping. The puddle was about 6"x6" and leaking fairly constant until I shut it down. Then it almost immediately stopped. Won't have the funds to replace the radiator (I believe it's original) until late next month. I figure I'll go ahead and replace the water pump and clutch fan too since I don't know how old they are. In the interim, it has been suggested that I use Bar's Leaks Radiator Stop Leak so I can still enjoy the car in the short term. I know it's a band aid, but has anyone had any experience with this product?

My car has the original radiator and when it was fired up over the winter we found 2 or 3 leak of varying size. Sent it out to the radiator shop and they boiled it and repaired the leaks for $90. PTA to get in and out but its lot cheaper than a new radiator. Of course, I've only had it back on the road 2 weeks but have put about 700 miles on it and it has held. Long term prognostication uncertain but then again I only bet $90 on it.

 

[Alan76]

Find a radiator shop and take the radiator down and have it recored its cheaper and does just as well while its out change water pump and hoses
all that probally for less than a new radiator just my thoughts

Alan

 

[Eric]

Dave,

The radiator shop in Old Town where 28 splits into one way traffic was torn down. There is another radiator shop just north of Manassas Park on 28 though. Can't remember the name but it's on the left just before you get to the RV place and Manassas Chrysler if you're heading towards Centreville.

I can't vouch for there radiator work but they helped me with my gas tank.

Good luck, and if you need a hand ripping it out, gimme a shout.

- Eric

 

[74bigblock]

Check your coolant line connections before you do anything drastic.


Cracks can form over time due to UV and particulate contamination on rubber hoses.... Screw clamps can also become loose over time or even slit/cut into the rubber.

 

[zgator]

I used it to stop a small leak in my heater core.It was leaking from inside the engine compartment.I will say it was a very SMALL leak and it worked great and have not had a cooling problem.Still runs about 160 no matter what.And I'll tell you it gets real hot in Savannah for about 9 mos. out of the year.

 

[AUSSIEVETTEMAN]

...Bar's Leak, or other products of that type, can provide a temporary fix for a limited amount of small leaks. These sealers work by coating the entire cooling system with a pliable coating that plugs small leaks. The problem is that coating also interferrs with the transfer of heat from the metal parts to the coolant so....your leak might be fixed but the cooling system is now less efficient. On a cooling-challenged car like a Vette, that's the kiss of death. I'd never use the stuff. I'd fix the leak properly....

I have to agree with Hib on this one, these are a waste of time and money. You may temporarily fix the smaller leaks, but it gunks your block up and fills it with crap. Best fix is to pull the rad out and rip her down to the radiator shop for some testing and brazing to repair it. Hey, I purchased a new big block radiator for our 81 Coupe and it still had small holes in it!
Get the core tested and replace it if it is cactus, check the tanks out as well. The radiator shop will do it all, but that is only round one.

Round two is the seals around the radiator. Make sure you put them back in place or install new seals as without them you will bugger up your airflow, from going through the radiator, to around it or over it! Sharks don't cool too well and this is the major reason, not thermostats or water pumps, but AIRFLOW.

Round three, make sure you have new hoses top and bottom. I installed a set of Coolflex hoses (www.coolflex.com) and am yet to find a problem with them. They will also outlast the rubber ones and can be cheaper in the long run. (Especially when we pay around $80 AU for one hose). Coolflex hoses are made from copper pipe and can be bent in any direction to suit your application. They disperse heat better than rubber hoses and will not 'suck in' while driving on the highway, majorly important for keeping your Shark cool on high speed runs.

Round four, thermostat. This subject is like opening a can of worms. Some say this and others that.
I believe that the thermostat only controls the minimum temperature and therefore I run a 160 degree thermostat. That is a minimum of 160 degrees or 72 degrees celcius and is my preffered operating temperature. This is where she runs all the time. On hot days she gets warmer of course, but that has nothing to do with the thermostat, that is airflow!

Round five, cap. Think about it, your cooling system is designed to operate under pressure to push the coolant through the water and increase the boiling temperature from 212, to 250 degrees fahrenheit (123 degrees celcius). If your cap is not working and your system is not pressurised or you have small holes in your cooling system, then your boiling temperature of your water/ coolant mixture is the same as the boiling temperature of water alone. Scared yet...?

Dude, you need to pull the radiator out!

Cheers

Tony

 

[Dave Z]

Ok, my minds made up and thanks for all of the input. I'll have to go with a new core. When it was suggested about using the stop leak, I did cringe a bit. It seems so, "Bubba" to use it. Even if just for a couple of hundred miles.

 

[Paranoid]

I've used it many times over the years. Saved me time and money. If Barr's Leak didn't work, I knew I needed a new radiator.

Used it on my vette too. Bought me a few years, I knew I wanted to swap in an aluminum rad and didn't want to have the original re-cored.

 

[TWINRAY]

I've used it with success more than a couple of times. You have nothing to loose so try it. If it initially works and you have another leak, I would just go and buy a new radiator. If it's original like you think, it's 30 yrs old. One leak will lead into another and another. The radiator in my '69 was on it's 3rd repair in the mid 70's. The radiator shop said forget it then. I'd say you got (and the previous owners) got their moneys worth out of it. If it's like my '69, the biggest %itch of the job is the shroud - I ended up not putting the bottom half back in mine because I think it's impossible to put back in

 

[motorman]

I have to agree with Hib on this one, these are a waste of time and money. You may temporarily fix the smaller leaks, but it gunks your block up and fills it with crap. Best fix is to pull the rad out and rip her down to the radiator shop for some testing and brazing to repair it. Hey, I purchased a new big block radiator for our 81 Coupe and it still had small holes in it!
Get the core tested and replace it if it is cactus, check the tanks out as well. The radiator shop will do it all, but that is only round one.

Round two is the seals around the radiator. Make sure you put them back in place or install new seals as without them you will bugger up your airflow, from going through the radiator, to around it or over it! Sharks don't cool too well and this is the major reason, not thermostats or water pumps, but AIRFLOW.

Round three, make sure you have new hoses top and bottom. I installed a set of Coolflex hoses (www.coolflex.com) and am yet to find a problem with them. They will also outlast the rubber ones and can be cheaper in the long run. (Especially when we pay around $80 AU for one hose). Coolflex hoses are made from copper pipe and can be bent in any direction to suit your application. They disperse heat better than rubber hoses and will not 'suck in' while driving on the highway, majorly important for keeping your Shark cool on high speed runs.

Round four, thermostat. This subject is like opening a can of worms. Some say this and others that.
I believe that the thermostat only controls the minimum temperature and therefore I run a 160 degree thermostat. That is a minimum of 160 degrees or 72 degrees celcius and is my preffered operating temperature. This is where she runs all the time. On hot days she gets warmer of course, but that has nothing to do with the thermostat, that is airflow!

Round five, cap. Think about it, your cooling system is designed to operate under pressure to push the coolant through the water and increase the boiling temperature from 212, to 250 degrees fahrenheit (123 degrees celcius). If your cap is not working and your system is not pressurised or you have small holes in your cooling system, then your boiling temperature of your water/ coolant mixture is the same as the boiling temperature of water alone. Scared yet...?

Dude, you need to pull the radiator out!

Cheers

Tony

most of the auto manufactures install barrs leak pellets at the factory to prevent small leaks in new cars. GM even uses it after replacing the leaking FI intake gaskets under warranty. follow the instructions and it will work for small leaks. back in the old days we used black pepper and it worked just like fels naptha soap on leaking fuel tanks.

 

[TWINRAY]

most of the auto manufactures install barrs leak pellets at the factory to prevent small leaks in new cars. GM even uses it after replacing the leaking FI intake gaskets under warranty. follow the instructions and it will work for small leaks. back in the old days we used black pepper and it worked just like fels naptha soap on leaking fuel tanks.

corvette owner since 1959, new corvettes owned,59,62,63,64,65,66

You are my hero

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Won't have the funds to replace the radiator (I believe it's original) until late next month.

From the posts around here on radiator and shroud removal it will probably take you that long to get it out and you'll have spent all your money on the beer that is necessary to keep the stress levels under control.

 

[Wolverine]

Your idea of replacing the water pump while doing this job is a good one. I recored my radiator four years ago. Two weeks after I reinstalled it, the water pump started to leak. It would have been a lot easier if I had done both at the same time. By the way, the recored radiator looked like a new one and is still perfect. I think it's a good way to go.

If you have the water pump out, it should make it easier to remove the radiator shroud. One less thing to get around.

 

[TWINRAY]

and if someone is really ambious, do the timing chain and gear.

 

[Wolverine]

OK, you got all that, Dave Z? Radiator, water pump, fan clutch, timing gear & chain. While you are at it, you might as well degrease and paint everything you can get at with all this stuff out. And you thought you were looking at buying a can of Bart's leak. :L

 

[Dave Z]

OK, you got all that, Dave Z? Radiator, water pump, fan clutch, timing gear & chain. While you are at it, you might as well degrease and paint everything you can get at with all this stuff out. And you thought you were looking at buying a can of Bart's leak. :L

Got it! If there's one thing I've learned about being a C3 owner, it's you'd just better go ahead and replace parts other than just the one at the time...I'm even thinking of replacing the P/S pump while it's all apart. Oh yeah...lots of Yeag Bombs to follow!

 

[Grizzly]

OK, you got all that, Dave Z? Radiator, water pump, fan clutch, timing gear & chain. While you are at it, you might as well degrease and paint everything you can get at with all this stuff out. And you thought you were looking at buying a can of Bart's leak. :L

Might as well pull the cam too if you are going this far...........:bang

 

[Wolverine]

...and if you add the power steering pump to the list, you might as well do the four PS hoses, too.