Bad driveshaft ujoint

[joshwilson3]

I decided to check the ujoints on my 89. The PO just replaced the driver side half shaft joints for some reason.

I put it in neutral with the rear on jack stands and turned the wheels. I got a screeching sound from around the transmission. I looked and noticed the grease leaking out of the caps of the ujoint at the transmission. I think that ujoint has been bad for a long while now as last year I was under there. I saw slung grease and didn't know where it came from. Though my rear transmission seal has been leaking for a while, so at the time I thought it was from that.

What is the usual going rate at a shop to replace the driveshaft ujoints? It looks like a real pain as the exhaust has to be dropped. And probably the C beam as well. Though some say that doesn't have to be removed. I'd get that transmission seal replaced at that time as well.

I've got the receipt of when the PO had the driver side half shaft done. And that was $125 just in labor many years ago. So I'm betting this is gonna be expensive.

I'd probably be looking going with Neapco "Brute Force" 1-0626BF ujoints.

 

[boomdriver]

I've done it in the garage before and did the trans seal as well. To do it right, the Beam has to go but thats only 4 bolts and it gives a bunch of needed room to work.
The exhaust is the worst part. If yours is right up there in the way, thats a problem. I hate dropping exhaust at home because of the risk of breaking rusted bolts and hangers always get bent or broken.

Just make some calls to various shops that WILL give a solid est on the job and STAY with that est no matter what happens. Some reputable shops WILL do that, while others will seize the opportunity to jack the price up if they break a manifold bolt or have to use some spray to break a nut loose. I've had an est go from $150 to $384 just because the mechanic did not know what he was doing and it took longer. That'll be their loss, I'll never be back.
Just call around and discribe exactly what the job is, or even take it to them. There is an honest shop somewhere in your area. I found one and won;t go anyplace else.

It CAn be done at home, but its a 2 man job and the risk with the exhaust is higher than normal. Definately a PIA project.

 

[Schrade]

Good detective work.

I had one side done on an '87 about 10 years ago, and it was $177.xx, at the dealer. I would have done it myself, but business was just a little 'busy'.

 

[Rex S]

Grease coming out of a greaseable Ujoint is normal. If it's a sealed unit (no fitting) then leaking grease is a sign of failure. Check for play in the joint as well as any play means time for replacement. Boom is right as the exhaust is the main roadblock and as a shop owner I understand the need to charge more for stuck/broken exhaust studs as these can add 2-3 hours to the job with a worse case of having to pull the manifold(s) and send out to a machine shop. If you have a drive shaft shop around it may be worth taking the shaft to them as they can also check the out put yoke for excess wear and check the shaft's ballance while it's out. Put both joints in while it's out.

 

[joshwilson3]

I've done it in the garage before and did the trans seal as well. To do it right, the Beam has to go but thats only 4 bolts and it gives a bunch of needed room to work.
The exhaust is the worst part. If yours is right up there in the way, thats a problem. I hate dropping exhaust at home because of the risk of breaking rusted bolts and hangers always get bent or broken.

Just make some calls to various shops that WILL give a solid est on the job and STAY with that est no matter what happens. Some reputable shops WILL do that, while others will seize the opportunity to jack the price up if they break a manifold bolt or have to use some spray to break a nut loose. I've had an est go from $150 to $384 just because the mechanic did not know what he was doing and it took longer. That'll be their loss, I'll never be back.
Just call around and discribe exactly what the job is, or even take it to them. There is an honest shop somewhere in your area. I found one and won;t go anyplace else.

It CAn be done at home, but its a 2 man job and the risk with the exhaust is higher than normal. Definately a PIA project.

Yeah, that exhaust is the main reason I don't want to fool with it. And I think you have to disconnect the check valve from the air pipe. And at least for 89, and the check valve is crimped on and I've read is a pain to do.

I'm first gonna see if the tech school will do it. As I've got another car up there now having them do some stuff. But I'm betting they won't want to do it since it is involved. But then again, they'll have to learn to do these things one day.

And I always hated how shops charge a different rate depending on the job. I'm thinking they charge more per hour on more complicated jobs. That way if the guy runs over the book time, they don't loose money since they are already charging more per hour. But I'm still gonna call around, I just never found a shop I could really trust.

 

[joshwilson3]

Grease coming out of a greaseable Ujoint is normal. If it's a sealed unit (no fitting) then leaking grease is a sign of failure. Check for play in the joint as well as any play means time for replacement. Boom is right as the exhaust is the main roadblock and as a shop owner I understand the need to charge more for stuck/broken exhaust studs as these can add 2-3 hours to the job with a worse case of having to pull the manifold(s) and send out to a machine shop. If you have a drive shaft shop around it may be worth taking the shaft to them as they can also check the out put yoke for excess wear and check the shaft's ballance while it's out. Put both joints in while it's out.

The joints are sealed, just like they all were from the factory. The joint feels tight too me. The yoke and driveshaft move in sinc. So, I guess that is why it hasn't exploded yet. I'm betting this thing has been bad for years. As last year I noticed slung grease in that area, but now realised is from the sealed ujoint.

That loud screech I heard at the tranny when turning the wheels. I'm unsure if that is from the bad ujoint, or maybe from wear caused by a leaking rear tranny seal?

I'll probably spray the exhaust bolts down with PB blaster or something else for a while before just to help make sure they come loose. Can you get by with just dropping the cat back? I just don't see why you need to drop the whole thing.

I'm sure the end of the transmission part has to come off if they also replacing that metal bushing thing as well along with the tranny seal.

If the yoke is worn, I'm probably not gonna worry about it. I just don't have an endless amount of money to keep dumping in the car. And I'm probably not gonna worry about getting the driveshaft balanced. It already is balanced from the factory, and I've read its not needing to do again. Plus I've read those balance costs can be $100. I'll take my chances.

 

[joshwilson3]

The cheapest price I got on labor is $176. That includes the output shaft seal and both ujoints. But I'm thinking he must have priced that a little low compared to everyone else.

The only thing is I was looking at getting the bushing pressed out as well. But the $176 shop said that would probably be something for a transmission shop.

My rear transmisson has been leaking for a while. But it hasn't really been bad. It doesn't drip, you just see some fluid collecting at the bottom of the C beam bolts. What are the odds that the leak is just the seal and NOT the bushing?

Haha. I called the dealer for the hell of it. And their price was similar to other shops on the output shaft seal $224 which includes the parts. But then I asked how much to press out/in two new ujoints since the driveshaft is going to be out. They said $210 just in labor. Haha. I was like F that when another shop priced me $50 in labor for two joints.

 

[boomdriver]

pretty fair odds...
Thats just a guide bushing, and its bathed in oil so it does not really wear very much, if any. As long as the shaft surface is not damaged the bushing should be ok.

I replaced my whole tail-shaft housing because it was broken from some jackass hitting me on the rear wheel, which shoved the beam sideways breaking off the tail housing...Everything had just enough "give" to allow a slight lateral movement, except the aluminum trans housing....

anyway, when I got the new housing the bushing was in, and the seal was just a pop-in fit. Yoke slid in thru the seal and bushing to meet up with splined shaft. No leaks since, 10 yrs ago.

I'd jump on that labor deal. I'd quiz the guy to make sure that its not a "bait" rate thats going to sky rocket after it takes more than 2 hrs....cause it could.Talk about the beam and the exhaust so its not a surprize to them.
Some shops will work strictly by what the flat-rate manual says (and trust in their training) and others will screw customers for however long it takes and then justify their bill as if you inconvenienced them by giving them the work. The flat-rate manual is based on mechanics and techs that KNOW what they are doing,. Things happen, but they should not increase the bill by 3 times. A good shop will take SOME responsibility for running over on an estimate.

I got the "shaft" on my rack & pinion that way....Thier book said 1.5 hrs. Job took 4.5 mostly because the guy tried to do everything together and wrestled with it. If he had followed the book proceedure it would have been lots easier and I'd have had an extra $200 in my pocket. Because they wanted ME to pay for THIER mechanic to LEARN....I'll never go back. The shop owner/mamanger even told me that they had used that SAME rack & pinion in a couple short-track cars they built and used to race....so its not like it was something they'd never seen before.
When I finally got all the new power steering hoses, I went to the guy that did the wheel bearings. I knew the hoses would be a tough job, but he quoted me $100. The job turned out to be almost as difficult as the rack was, but this shop owner was true to his word and only wanted to bill me $100. Knowing that I had an honest mechanic, and that he did spend all afternoonon on the PS hoses, I paid him $150. The honestly was well worth the money. If I take my car to have work done, it will always be to that shop.

Drive shaft joints are so easy....its just getting to them, thats the fun part. The only real downside to having the shop do the work is they won;t do the housekeeping that you;d do while under there...
This does not sound like an emergency,. so you can fit it in the budget easier than the
"got to" kind of repairs that pop up.

 

[joshwilson3]

pretty fair odds...
Thats just a guide bushing, and its bathed in oil so it does not really wear very much, if any. As long as the shaft surface is not damaged the bushing should be ok.

I replaced my whole tail-shaft housing because it was broken from some jackass hitting me on the rear wheel, which shoved the beam sideways breaking off the tail housing...Everything had just enough "give" to allow a slight lateral movement, except the aluminum trans housing....

anyway, when I got the new housing the bushing was in, and the seal was just a pop-in fit. Yoke slid in thru the seal and bushing to meet up with splined shaft. No leaks since, 10 yrs ago.

I'd jump on that labor deal. I'd quiz the guy to make sure that its not a "bait" rate thats going to sky rocket after it takes more than 2 hrs....cause it could.Talk about the beam and the exhaust so its not a surprize to them.
Some shops will work strictly by what the flat-rate manual says (and trust in their training) and others will screw customers for however long it takes and then justify their bill as if you inconvenienced them by giving them the work. The flat-rate manual is based on mechanics and techs that KNOW what they are doing,. Things happen, but they should not increase the bill by 3 times. A good shop will take SOME responsibility for running over on an estimate.

I got the "shaft" on my rack & pinion that way....Thier book said 1.5 hrs. Job took 4.5 mostly because the guy tried to do everything together and wrestled with it. If he had followed the book proceedure it would have been lots easier and I'd have had an extra $200 in my pocket. Because they wanted ME to pay for THIER mechanic to LEARN....I'll never go back. The shop owner/mamanger even told me that they had used that SAME rack & pinion in a couple short-track cars they built and used to race....so its not like it was something they'd never seen before.
When I finally got all the new power steering hoses, I went to the guy that did the wheel bearings. I knew the hoses would be a tough job, but he quoted me $100. The job turned out to be almost as difficult as the rack was, but this shop owner was true to his word and only wanted to bill me $100. Knowing that I had an honest mechanic, and that he did spend all afternoonon on the PS hoses, I paid him $150. The honestly was well worth the money. If I take my car to have work done, it will always be to that shop.

Drive shaft joints are so easy....its just getting to them, thats the fun part. The only real downside to having the shop do the work is they won;t do the housekeeping that you;d do while under there...
This does not sound like an emergency,. so you can fit it in the budget easier than the
"got to" kind of repairs that pop up.

I've got to replace a leaking power steering pressure hose. But that doesn't look to be too big a deal. I can get the line wrench on the fitting at the steering rack. And it looks like I could get to the line fitting on the pump easily once I get the pulley off. I'm gonna try that one myself.

I'm hoping its just the seal and not the bushing causing the leak. I've already read a scored yoke could cause the leak. Which would mean a new yoke, but I'm betting that's not too common.

I was reading in an article on Corvette Magazine or something. And they talked about checking the yoke for wear. And to clean up any slight grooves or knicks with emery cloth or 400 grit sandpaper. So, when I get this done, I'll probably have them give me the yoke so I can do that while they are replacing the seal.

 

[joshwilson3]

The best price I got on the transmission output shaft seal was $107. But they want $50 a joint in labor to do the ujoints on the driveshaft. BS. I'm betting to press out/in two ujoints with the driveshaft already out should only take 20-30 minutes if you know what you are doing. Don't see why they would want to charge 2 or so hours for it. I called the dealer just to get prices. And they wanted $210 just in labor to press out/in two ujoints with the driveshaft already out. Haha, BS.

I think I'll call that $107 shop for the transmission seal. And see if I could drop it off on a Friday for them to replace the seal. Then I pick up the drive shaft and install 2 new ujoints over the weekend. Then drop the driveshaft off on the following Monday morning. I just don't see a point in paying $100 for 20 minutes of labor.

 

[Hib Halverson]

If you had a bad u-joint in the prop shaft, you'd have experiended a vibration and you'd likely not seen leaking grease residue.

I'm going to guess that the joints in the shaft while high-mileage are probably not faulty.

The squeal/screech just might be a bad extension housing bushing. The noise coupled with the rear seal leak, has me thinking that.

In any event, when they go to replace the seal and pull the yoke, they'll know right away if the bushing is bad.

 

[joshwilson3]

If you had a bad u-joint in the prop shaft, you'd have experiended a vibration and you'd likely not seen leaking grease residue.

I'm going to guess that the joints in the shaft while high-mileage are probably not faulty.

The squeal/screech just might be a bad extension housing bushing. The noise coupled with the rear seal leak, has me thinking that.

In any event, when they go to replace the seal and pull the yoke, they'll know right away if the bushing is bad.

I'm betting that ujoint by the transmission is bad right since the grease has leaked out of the caps as seen in my pic? And its got 92k miles.

I think that price was just them replacing the seal. Some shops won't do the bushing. But I guess I will need to get a price on the seal and bushing. Then see if they will let me pick up the driveshaft to replace the ujoints myself. I just don't see $100 labor to replace 2 joints.

 

[Rex S]

I'm betting that ujoint by the transmission is bad right since the grease has leaked out of the caps as seen in my pic? And its got 92k miles.

I think that price was just them replacing the seal. Some shops won't do the bushing. But I guess I will need to get a price on the seal and bushing. Then see if they will let me pick up the driveshaft to replace the ujoints myself. I just don't see $100 labor to replace 2 joints.

Guess the shop got the large, expensive press and all it's related parts for free. Why would they want to charge for that. Also try holding the 4' driveshaft straight out by yourself to set up the push punch and recieving tube or press plate.

 

[joshwilson3]

Guess the shop got the large, expensive press and all it's related parts for free. Why would they want to charge for that. Also try holding the 4' driveshaft straight out by yourself to set up the push punch and recieving tube or press plate.

If I did it myself. I'd probably use the rent a tool ball joint/ujoint press. Though they do make a specific ujoint puller/installer. But I don't know if Autozone rents that out.

 

[Schrade]

Rubber seals and valve bore seals will soften up and swell if soaked in Trans-X for 4 hours or more. I saved a Ford tranny from a re-build using that stuff (and I don't believe in any snake oil magic-in-a-can potions either).

I soaked my new rubber LT1 V/C gaskets in that stuff last year. It made them soften just fine, AND, they swelled up lengthwise so much that they weren't close to fitting the placement groove. Seating them was not a picnic either NopE.

 

[joshwilson3]

Rubber seals and valve bore seals will soften up and swell if soaked in Trans-X for 4 hours or more. I saved a Ford tranny from a re-build using that stuff (and I don't believe in any snake oil magic-in-a-can potions either).

I soaked my new rubber LT1 V/C gaskets in that stuff last year. It made them soften just fine, AND, they swelled up lengthwise so much that they weren't close to fitting the placement groove. Seating them was not a picnic either NopE.

It could be the seal. Could be a worn yoke. Or could be a bad bushing. I know with the rear jacked up and in neutral. When I turn the wheel in the forward position. I get a loud screech from the rear of the tranny. If I turn the wheels in reverse, no screech.

I don't hear that screech when driving. But I'm betting that screech must be something more than a seal. I had thought it could be the driveshaft ujoint? But I don't think that ujoint does any rotating of the caps like the halfshafts to make a noise like that. But then again I'm not a mechanic.

 

[joshwilson3]

I pressed in the ujoints in one of my halfshafts. I did have to hit them several times with the hammer/chisel on both sides of the joint to get them to loosen up.

The first one I pressed is centered perfectly. The 2nd one I noticed pressed in a little too far to the other side. A couple of hash marks on the 1" part of a ruler too far.

I got it loosened up and noticed that it was a little noisier than the other side when I rock the ujoint back and forth real fast.

Should I take the clips off and try pressing it from the other side to try and center it? Or just press it out, and maybe turn it and press it in again?

By the way, I used Neapco Brute Force ujoints.