best aftermarket shifter for a 1990 six speed

[topless82vette]

My friend is interested in buying one but wants to know the best one out there

 

[So Bay Vetter]

If it's the ZF trans, I'd go with a Hurst. The B&M Ripper has such a short throw and is so close that it's a bit tedious for street use. My.02

 

[Hib Halverson]

I agree. I've tested the B&M Ripper, the White Racing unit and the Hurst and it's the best compromise between short throw but reasonable effort. I installed Hurst in my 95.

If you're a hardcore drag racer with a strong arm, the B&M might be a better chioce for racing but otherwise the Hurst is your best bet.

I'll add that the Hurst was originally designed by a pretty sharp engineer who owned a 2nd gen. ZR-1. The product worked so well, that Hurst bought the design from him.

 

[topless82vette]

No, the car isn't raced. He just wants a better shifter is all. So I guess hurst is the best one for him.

 

[Tom B Hargrove]

I have the B&M on my 95, and love it. It's a street car, and it isn't bad at all. Much shorter throws than the Hurst. I can shift with my wrist.

 

[JimBobC4]

I have the B&M on my 95, and love it. It's a street car, and it isn't bad at all. Much shorter throws than the Hurst. I can shift with my wrist.

A drove a 1994 with B&M on it. Do you have problems with Reverse ? or does it go right in ? The one I drove seemed to bind the shift boot and was hard to get in reverse.

then again maybe it was the operator

 

[Tom B Hargrove]

No, no problems with going into reverse. From what I've heard, it is a little stiffer than the Hurst, but I go to reverse as easily as the forward gears.

 

[*89x2*]

Having driven C4s with an array of shifters, my preference is the one offered by www.zfdoc.com It is a trimmed down version of the factory unit. No rattles or buzzing. Some mentioned, have been less than acceptable and I remember even shimming one with a set of plastic washers just to keep it quiet. Your experiences may vary.

 

[Hib Halverson]

What many people don't understand about the egonomics of shifting is that the actual time it takes to shift typically is a balance between shift throw (distance) and shift effort (time it takes for a person to "push" against the syncronizer action.

The vast majority of enthuaists believe that the shorter the shift throw, the quicker the shift.

That's only true if 1) the driver's arm strength during rapid arm movement is high enough to counteract the "shift slowing" effect of the higher effort and 2) the transmission's synchronizer action (a combination of the hardware--both design and condition--and the lubricant) is capable of synchronizing during higher load and shorter time duration.

Bottom line, sometimes, just because you install a shifter with a shorter (or "much shorter" in the case of some products) throw doesn't mean you actually get a quicker shift.

 

[jonszr1]

Having driven C4s with an array of shifters, my preference is the one offered by www.zfdoc.com It is a trimmed down version of the factory unit. No rattles or buzzing. Some mentioned, have been less than acceptable and I remember even shimming one with a set of plastic washers just to keep it quiet. Your experiences may vary.

i second the preference of bill boudreaus shifter . i had a hurst and switched to bill and love it

 

[Guitared]

Please help me identify my shifter.

I have a lot of shifter noise in my ‘96 LT4. I posted earlier to see if others are having a similar problem. Doesn't seem anyone else is having this problem unless they installed an after market shifter. So, now I'm suspecting the previous owner may had put in an after market shifter. I have no clue how to identify the shifter. I measured the height from the console to the top of the knob. It is approximately 4.25” with the transmission in reverse. I’ve included a couple of pictures if that helps. I’d appreciate any help I can get. Thanks!

 

[Topless]

I have the B&M, and love it. I drive a lot on the street, as well as some autocross. A friend has a Hurst, and likes mine better. Then again he autocrosses as well. One thing to consider is installation. The B&M takes more work to put in.

Oh, and the cup holder is usable, even with reverse. And on that note, reverse is just as easy as the other gears. The lock-out is eliminated, but other than that, not different.