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Help! Big Problem!

topace

Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2007
Messages
17
Location
Aguadilla PR
Corvette
1993 Artic White Coupe
Hi guys
I have a 93 coupe, I recently change the spark plug wires and give a little bit care to the engine just removing dust (NO Water). I had it raise in jacks just to be able to access the wires more easy. The thing was I lower it and forgot a jack that was placed down, so you can imagine I hit the oil pan and make a tatoo in the oil pan at first I didn't think it damage any, I started it and let her run for a few minute, then a bleeding of oil came from the oil sensor level, as a maniatic freak I decide to remove the oil pan and install a new one. With a lot of effort I remove the oil pan and install a new gasket (beautiful gasket) a new pan, a new oil sensor level (a plastic one even do it was Delco), some new Oxigen sensor (I have the space), New Fuel Filter. I just re-assemble the parts no screws left over pour oil on it ready to hit the road, NOW she won't start. It crank but will not start, check every connection and she wont start, check for loose wire and she wont start:bash I have fuel pressure on the rail, fuel pump sounds, but no power on the injectors ( i have some tester for the injectors), so I decide to remove the coil ignition , buy a new one, buy a Ignition module, and she still wont start. No spark on any cable
The ECM was replaced about 3 Years ago

Should I assume the distributor died!:mad have to buy a new one?

Any thoughts are appreciate I'm starting to giving up
 
Hi guys
I have a 93 coupe, I recently change the spark plug wires and give a little bit care to the engine just removing dust (NO Water). I had it raise in jacks just to be able to access the wires more easy. The thing was I lower it and forgot a jack that was placed down, so you can imagine I hit the oil pan and make a tatoo in the oil pan at first I didn't think it damage any, I started it and let her run for a few minute, then a bleeding of oil came from the oil sensor level, as a maniatic freak I decide to remove the oil pan and install a new one. With a lot of effort I remove the oil pan and install a new gasket (beautiful gasket) a new pan, a new oil sensor level (a plastic one even do it was Delco), some new Oxigen sensor (I have the space), New Fuel Filter. I just re-assemble the parts no screws left over pour oil on it ready to hit the road, NOW she won't start. It crank but will not start, check every connection and she wont start, check for loose wire and she wont start:bash I have fuel pressure on the rail, fuel pump sounds, but no power on the injectors ( i have some tester for the injectors), so I decide to remove the coil ignition , buy a new one, buy a Ignition module, and she still wont start. No spark on any cable
The ECM was replaced about 3 Years ago

Should I assume the distributor died!:mad have to buy a new one?

Any thoughts are appreciate I'm starting to giving up
First I'd check for stored codes to see what may be happening!Then check the fuses for the Injectors 1&2!! I had a Little set too with a 93 a while back,and more recently with my own 94!! I would check all the fuses and grounds!!There is a fuse panel on the Rt end of the dash you need to check and clean All the fuses in there!! There are fuses for the Injection,ECM, and Engine in it!!On the Lt door A pillar behind the battery there is a Main fuse block,you need to clean and check All of them!! If you look close in the bottom photo you can see the location of the ECM,Engine,Injector 1 and Injector 2 on the cover of the panel in the dash!!Hope this helps!! And you don't get into the deal I did!!:hb:hb:hb PS If you don't have a book Get One!It has test procedures to narrow it down before you start just replacing parts!! You'll need a Volt/Ohm Meter too!!:thumb:thumb

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Thanks gmjunkie, I just finish cleanning all fuse the one in front of the battery, the one behind the battery and the inside, all of the fuse have continuity. I connect the scanner have a DTC16, go to the test page on the service manual for it, the testing for the ignition connector has 4.7 volts, and the connector on the ignition (got my hand scratch), has also 4.7 volts, service manual says is a faulty distributor or a faulty connection.
Should I rely on the test and asume the distributor?

I'm thinking of buying the MSD Pro-billet Distributor JEGS has a kit there for LT1 which includes MSD cables, coil, distributor (complete). What do you think?

Any more inputs will be great
 
Thanks gmjunkie, I just finish cleanning all fuse the one in front of the battery, the one behind the battery and the inside, all of the fuse have continuity. I connect the scanner have a DTC16, go to the test page on the service manual for it, the testing for the ignition connector has 4.7 volts, and the connector on the ignition (got my hand scratch), has also 4.7 volts, service manual says is a faulty distributor or a faulty connection.
Should I rely on the test and asume the distributor?

I'm thinking of buying the MSD Pro-billet Distributor JEGS has a kit there for LT1 which includes MSD cables, coil, distributor (complete). What do you think?

Any more inputs will be great
Well, in 1000's of miles and 100's of customer vehicles I had never changed a Opti Spark because it went bad!! I've always found a green connection,broken wire,or bad splices where Bubba had been screwing with it!!:thumb But the last 2 cars,both with less than 62,000 miles ended up with a New Opti-Spark!!:hb:hb:hb The last one was my own 94,the water pump had just started leaking so I pulled it in the shop on it's own power and replaced the water pump and it never started again!!:ugh:ugh:ugh I went with 100% GM,I'm not much on aftermarket ignition part's unless I can't get OEM!! I'm set up with a good GM Parts department and they treat me well as far as price!!Besides I'm a "GM" Junkie!!:D:D:D:beer
PS Be sure to check the plug connection at the Opti and the Flat Plug connection up between 4 and 6 injectors on the intake,there bad to get green connections!!:thumb
 
Beings you just did plug wire change, I have to agree with the junk man and say there's probably a loose wire, broken wire or bad connection. But that's just my opinion. Too much of a coincidence that you were just messing with the opti and then it quits working.

Check the wiring before you spend the dollars for a new opti.
 
Well, in 1000's of miles and 100's of customer vehicles I had never changed a Opti Spark because it went bad!! I've always found a green connection,broken wire,or bad splices where Bubba had been screwing with it!!:thumb But the last 2 cars,both with less than 62,000 miles ended up with a New Opti-Spark!!:hb:hb:hb The last one was my own 94,the water pump had just started leaking so I pulled it in the shop on it's own power and replaced the water pump and it never started again!!:ugh:ugh:ugh I went with 100% GM,I'm not much on aftermarket ignition part's unless I can't get OEM!! I'm set up with a good GM Parts department and they treat me well as far as price!!Besides I'm a "GM" Junkie!!:D:D:D:beer
PS Be sure to check the plug connection at the Opti and the Flat Plug connection up between 4 and 6 injectors on the intake,there bad to get green connections!!:thumb

GUYSS!!! I GIVE A LOT of thinking about what junkie says, so I went to advance Auto Parts and bought all brand new fuses for one of the boxes, I left the store without Fuses. clean with contact cleaner the fuse box measure it and I have 12v on each of the fuse, before on the 60A (IGNITION:W) I was getting a lower read. Anyhow I start cleanning all the connectors and she just try to start (not crank) but she didn't. First time in a month I hear my LT1 Engine. Check the scanner now I have DTC 16 and DTC 41. In conclusion as you Master Junkie inform previously is a connection problem not the opti spark (THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!! SAVE ME 1K so Far)

DTC 41 disable the injectors so the engine will not overflows with Liquid Gold sorry with gasoline. Anyhow tomorrow I will perform the test that the service manual will use.

Master, Any thoughts now on how to address the symptoms.
 
It's interesting to me that codes are set with the engine cranking but not running.

Have you consulted the sections in the factory service manual titled cranks but won't run?
 
GUYSS!!! I GIVE A LOT of thinking about what junkie says, so I went to advance Auto Parts and bought all brand new fuses for one of the boxes, I left the store without Fuses. clean with contact cleaner the fuse box measure it and I have 12v on each of the fuse, before on the 60A (IGNITION:W) I was getting a lower read. Anyhow I start cleanning all the connectors and she just try to start (not crank) but she didn't. First time in a month I hear my LT1 Engine. Check the scanner now I have DTC 16 and DTC 41. In conclusion as you Master Junkie inform previously is a connection problem not the opti spark (THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!! SAVE ME 1K so Far)
Well I've always said Connections,Connections,Conections,But don't rule out the opti just yet!! Like I said, in 1000's of miles and 100's of customer vehicles I'd never changed a Opti because it just went bad,replaced one from a collision once!! But the Last 2 a 93 and 94 ended up with New Opti's!:W:W:W They were full of rust particles,and it was getting over the lenses and they wouldn't read the disk right!:thumb

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PS,They were both White Too!! :D:D:D
 
Guys, what is connector "C" to B+ as the service manual say. Pardon my ignorance I have doubt on B+
 
Well Guys, still looking for a good definition of the B+. Apparently she has a connection problem on the distributor, you touch the gray conector or touch the cables and you hear the fuel pump on, and when it cranks she starts but die inmediatly. I have now to wait for my Brother so he can start the vette, and I will work with the cable. I have a remote but it's still difficult to do the same. What do you guys think.
 
Guys, what is connector "C" to B+ as the service manual say. Pardon my ignorance I have doubt on B+
Which service manual are you using?? Haynes,Chilton's or GM?
Which component or plug are you trying to check??
 
GM service Manual. I'm checking the ignition cable. The on that is connected to the distributor and comes from the ECM. This morning after I charge the battery and I connect the key I will not get a reading on the yellow cable C12, on a positive charge. Yesterday I have a reading
 
GM service Manual. I'm checking the ignition cable. The on that is connected to the distributor and comes from the ECM. This morning after I charge the battery and I connect the key I will not get a reading on the yellow cable C12, on a positive charge. Yesterday I have a reading
You may need to check the harness from the ECM to the right side where the wires come out to the 4 pin connector that go's to the opti,I've found chaffed,shorted and broken wires behind the engine causing problems there!!

Unplug black plug on ECM and 4 pin test connector on intake manifold
With a VOM check for resistance, there should be almost 0 resistance from.............
ECM plug pin B5 to Pin B on ignition Module plug
ECM plug pin B2 to Pin A on 4 pin test connector on intake manifold
ECM plug pin B20 to Pin B on 4 pin test connector on intake manifold
ECM plug pin B14 to pin C on 4 pin test connector on intake manifold
ECM plug pin B3 to pin D on 4 pin test connector on intake manifold
If you have No continuity or more than 0-5 ohms you have a broken or shorted wire in the harness behind the engine!!:thumb
Also I've had problems with connections on the plug on the Opti it's self,have had to slightly bend or twist the pins in the opti!! And I do mean ever so slightly!!:thumb
 
Now I think the ECM die!. I have no communication with the ECM, even do I have power in the cables, continuity with the cable I have, but nothing else. I have to verify now the ECM before continuing
 
Now I think the ECM die!. I have no communication with the ECM, even do I have power in the cables, continuity with the cable I have, but nothing else. I have to verify now the ECM before continuing
Check ALL fuses and connections,Especially in the panel behind the battery and fuse panel at right end of Dash!!:thumb
 
HI GUYS!
Still struggling with it:mad. Check the fuse, Thanks GMJUNKIE for the tip:D ,it was a blown out fuse for the ECM, it it working. Still no spark comming out of the ignition, have check all wire and they have red and green light (bought a snap on probe, as an excuse) check your advise junkie, but I use C connector instead of the B connector, from the ECM and also check the A12 connector thru the ignition module, everything has continuity and 0 ohms. Any new suggestion honest I give up. I review the hole manual to see if the corvette has a crank position sensor but mine is a VIN P and I haven't seen it. What you guys think I should do. bought the cable to the distributor at corvette central and I got a Gray connector and it do not fit a black connector so I have to open to see if the contacts are ok but it didn't run either:confused
 
I had a no crank no start on my 93 and it turned out to be the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) Remove the rubber connector for the air cleaner and have a friend crank the engine while you spray choke cleaner into the throttle body opening. Be careful not to overdue it. If the engine fires and runs it eliminates the ECM as the problem. In my case I did replace the ECM only to still not be able start the car. What the TPS was doing is telling the ECM that the engine was flooded and needed to crank over to clear it out so the ECM turned off the injectors. When it fired the ECM resumed the fuel to the injectors.

If you have the FSM Book 2 go to the section 6E3-C1-6This will tell you how the TPS functions. 6E3-C1-14 Is the diagnostic for the TPS.

In my case I did not get any of the codes mentioned in the FSM
 
[ What you guys think I should do. bought the cable to the distributor at corvette central and I got a Gray connector and it do not fit a black connector so I have to open to see if the contacts are ok but it didn't run either:confused[/quote]

I bought the same connector for mine when I replaced my opti because I thought mine was corroded (turned out to be a bad coil wire). I had to pull the wires out of the harness that I bought and push them into the harness on my old connector and it worked fine. I believe it has numbers or letters on the harness and the wires so you can match them up..Good luck..:thumb
 

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