Blend door Choke Cable Pictures

[Marv02]

Here we Go As we all know by now trying to find parts for a 1986 Vett is getting harder everyday.
And as most of us supporting our families cuts in to our Vett funds.

And what I seen for a replacment Blend door acuator is over priced.

Here a cheeper way for now until someone make some Cheep replacment parts for our cars.

Remove both hush panels under the dash remove the Computer on the right side of the car 2 bolts.

Remove the heater box cover under the hood inboard side only Not fun at all.

Mount Cable knob and bracket I put mine next to the trany hump.
2 Self tapping screws work.

Route cable though trans hump to pass side of car.

Remove Blend door Actuator you Will break the little plastic clip for the conector push pull rod I just removed the rod from the blend door side it self.

Run cable though opening to the Blend door it self.

I used the Z bracket that came with the choke cable kit to mount the cable to the blend door it self USE METAL SELF LOCKING NUTS one side tighten down the cable after you figue out how much cable you going to need.
I used 2 washers that the cable locks to 1 bolt self locking nut though one side of the Z bracket.

Use anouther bolt on the other end of the Z bracket With 2 washers to attach to the blend door arm it self Dont tighten all the way so it can Pivot so the cable willn't bind up.

You going to have to bend the bracket to a 90 twist and cut one of them to make the mount under the dash to hold the other end of the cable after bracket is made adjust as need so the door closes and opens you hear when it's full close or open when you pull or push the chock knob lock the pinch clamp down.
I use 10/32 self locking nuts and bolts.

Mount the mounting bracket to heater box self tapping screws work well

Make sure it opens and closes and put the car back together.

MAKE SURE you don't have any sharp bends in the cable routing or it will bind up on you smouth flowing bends.

Good luck it took me about 3 hours to do this job by my self Air tools help alot 1/4 air rachet made my life much easyer on heater box bolts.

I also had to open up the bolt hole in the choke mounting bracket kit for the 10/32 bolts.

Cost Choke Kit from auto parts store $10.00 Had some screws botls and self locking already 3 hours of you time to do the job.

New Used Blend door acuator if you can find one about $150.00 to $220.00 and hope this fixes the problem.

 

[Corvette_Mike]

Cool write up. Great idea.

 

[Dog House]

That’s funny :L I was going to do the same thing until I found out my motor was working. Turned out one of two resistors was loose on the circuit board inside the programmer, put some new solder on it and the motor now works fine.

 

[Marv02]

My motor is seized up.

 

[Dog House]

Thought mine was too until I put 12 volts to it. I was able to repair the programmer but I still can’t change from Bi-Level to Defrost or Heat. Now I’m trying to find out where the vacuum line to the programmer goes through the firewall. I pulled on one end to hard and it came off where every it goes. Might have to pull the dizzy to see it?
Still think the choke cable was a good idea, I bought one but didn't need it.

 

[Marv02]

I have a new programer it is the motor.

The vacuum line is on the pass side next to the trany hump pull the hush panel look up you see a wire loom and on top of that you see a rubber block where the lines go in to and change colors you see where it go's through the fire wall.

I had a broken vacuum line behind the distributor I had to pull the distributor to get to it the breck was going into the wire loom protective covering.

Be very careful my hard vacuum lines were very brittle if you look at them wrong they will crack on you.

Trust me on this one.

Good luck.

Thought mine was too until I put 12 volts to it. I was able to repair the programmer but I still can’t change from Bi-Level to Defrost or Heat. Now I’m trying to find out where the vacuum line to the programmer goes through the firewall. I pulled on one end to hard and it came off where every it goes. Might have to pull the dizzy to see it?
Still think the choke cable was a good idea, I bought one but didn't need it.

 

[Dog House]

Thanks Marv, here’s what my car looks like now I had to fix some burnt wires and changed the heater core.

Is the line that goes through the firewall a hard line? If so can it be replaced with regular vacuum line? The trouble I have is no vacuum at the programmer so it will not change from Bi-Level to heat or defrost.
I looked up but couldn’t see where the line comes in?

 

[Dog House]

Marv, the line behind the distributor was that for the Programmer about 6” long?

 

[Marv02]

replacing my vacuum lines with rubber hoses as neede.

Mine broke behide the disstibutor It was not fun rteaching back there putting a rubber on to the hard line.

Are you getting any vacuum to the programer at all the only time my vents move I think is in the Auto mode on the AC control head.

If any of the doors move you have vacuum it coulsd be the control head or the programer it self I know a guy that has a new in the box $230.00 not cheep but it new.

Marv, the line behind the distributor was that for the Programmer about 6” long?

 

[Marv02]

There 2 lines going thought the firewall 1 for the vacuum suppy to the programer the other going to the Heater water vavle under the hood on the heater box out board side

 

[Dog House]

I guess I’ll be pulling the distributor to get access to the line to hook it up again. ad
I took the vacuum harness off the programmer and couldn’t feel any vacuum. I believe it is the black line that is the supply?
I replaced the control head with a used one because of stuck buttons. It seems to be functioning.

 

[Dog House]

I might have a few choke cables on my car soon to activate the doors for the heat and defrost. LOL :L If all else fails.

 

[Marv02]

It's not bad of a job pulling distributor just mark the rotor position so you know were to clock it at putting back in.

 

[Marv02]

Only draw back the fan needs to be off when flipping the door to heat back to cold or the other way theres to much air pressure made from the fan it will not flip over when blowing I tryed it today.

 

[Dog House]

Marv, I removed the distributor and replaced the broken line with no issues. I have vacuum going through the valve next to the distributor but can’t tell if it makes it into the cab. I put my dash back together today so I’m just going to leave it the way it is. The air is actually coming out the vents, heat, and defrost so being I’m not going to be driving it in cold weather it will be alright the way it is. At least if it’s raining the windshield won’t fog up.

 

[Marv02]

Good Deal I glad you got it to work.

My car is a fair weather car also I have a newwer truck when the weather gets bad.

The Vett I can use in bad weather if the truck is broken but it is a 2006 with 72000 miles on it.
The truck should be good for at least 2 or 3 more yerars before I get rid of it for anouther car loan Ha Ha, this truck is almost paid for now I sick of truck payments.

 

[Marv02]

Scored

I just picked up a Blend door aucator off Fee Bay for $49.00

Ya Me

 

[Dog House]

Why to go Marv, I’ve been meaning to tell you I didn’t get my air flow problem fixed the air just comes out of all the vents at the same time.

 

[helphos]

Blend door question

I am getting the blend door fault 'code' when I run AC diagnostics. I am (surprisingly, to me) not getting a low freon code. When i 'run' my AC, none of the lines gets cold.
So if I fix my blend door by using the choke cable, will that turn off my blend door fault code and allow/cause my AC to work? or will i simply start getting air through the AC section and not the heater section of my ventilation system?
(currently I know that the blend door is on 'full hot')
Thanks!
Paul

 

[Marv02]

Jut do what I did keep looking at E bay you fine a blend door for cheep one day It took me a while to find one if you do jump on it if see it first I can use a spare, Ha Ha.

I am getting the blend door fault 'code' when I run AC diagnostics. I am (surprisingly, to me) not getting a low freon code. When i 'run' my AC, none of the lines gets cold.
So if I fix my blend door by using the choke cable, will that turn off my blend door fault code and allow/cause my AC to work? or will i simply start getting air through the AC section and not the heater section of my ventilation system?
(currently I know that the blend door is on 'full hot')
Thanks!
Paul