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Camshaft Opinions?

Go with the GM Hot Cam with 1:5 RR then you wouldn't have to change your springs I don't believe at .492 Lift?.
 
Go with the GM Hot Cam with 1:5 RR then you wouldn't have to change your springs I don't believe at .492 Lift?.

Remember, he's got a flat tappet cam, not a roller.

Jake

West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
 
For headers, has anybody tried Hedman 68440 headers? If so, what about oxy sensor and EGR air tube? Any Installation issues?
Thanks
 
Go with the GM Hot Cam with 1:5 RR then you wouldn't have to change your springs I don't believe at .492 Lift?.
But you would anyway because they are 20 years old wouldn't you?
 
You can expect a nice gain even with stock intake components!

I have an '85 which I have modified slowly over the years as my finances permitted. I now have a GM crate short block with LT1 rods and four bolt mains,Edelbrock heads and a good size Comp Cams roller cam. Before all this I installed a mild Comp Cams flat tappet cam and the throttle response and acceleration were much improved!! The stock cam is woefully inadequate because of US smog laws. I had stock exhaust, heads and intake and no chip change!! Only a K&N filter and modified lid!! Even though the stock intake parts were in place the extra lift and duration made up for their short cummings. This is true to a point though, if you go to big with the cam you will lose throttle response and hurt torque because the intake parts cannot provide enuff air to feed the big cam which enjoys a higher revving environment. I would recommend a cam with a duration around 218 degrees on the intake side and 224 degrees on the exhaust with a lift around .480" . You will love the performance!!! Thats the way the car should have been from the factory.:beer
 
I have those headers on my '85

They work great!! As for the O2 sensor I just cut out the bung (the threaded ring which the sensor screws into) from the original pipe using a cut off wheel mounted to a drill or air dremmel drilled a hole into the header collector and had the muffler shop weld it in place then screwed the sensor in!! I did not retain my EGR I disconnected it as these headers are not equipped with smog provisions. Also the brackets for the alternator and A/C compressor will not mount to these headers but I have found these brackets to be overkill anyway. I just eliminated them as there are still two remaining which leaves these accessories very secure. I live in a complex with many speed bumps and have not had a ground clearance issue and my front end has been lowered 2 inches!!:beer
 
thats what I was hoping for, not too much of a challenge! Got the engine stripped down, A/C, radiator, intake are all off, exhaust manifolds removed from the heads but still on pipes. Hopefully have heads off tomorrow. Finding broken wires, broken gaskets, broken vacuum lines. Cant wait till its done....didnt run too bad before all this was discovered! As a side note...i'm 6' 6" tall, working on this was killing my back...yesterday put the front end up on ramps from the auto zone...what a difference!
 
stay patient

Geeze!!! I was gonna say get that front end up!! The guys have the right idea about cam mods but as long as you're not trying to go 10 seconds in the quarter mile you can see nice gains with stock parts. In some ways I wish that I had stuck with my mild set up. I mostly drive in city and the mild set up was incredible around town, tons of low end torque!!! :beer
 
I have found these brackets to be overkill anyway. I just eliminated them as there are still two remaining which leaves these accessories very secure.

You may change your mind when the Alt breaks off.Rev the engine out of gear and see how much flex there is in the Alt.
Late models L98's with the Denso compressor will snap the weak A/c bracket without the back brace ; the Harrison compressor on early models has a much more rigid bracket.
Stock braces are easily refitted by cutting a piece of pipe as a spacer the same length as the bolt extentions on the stock manifolds and using the bolt to mount brace in original position
 
As for the O2 sensor I just cut out the bung from the original pipe using a cut off wheel mounted to a drill or air dremmel drilled a hole into the header collector and had the muffler shop weld it in place
A muffler shop should be able to supply the commonly used 18mm O2 sensor bung without having to cut up your original pipes.
In any case you can buy one online for less than $3

O2 Oxygen sensor bung 02 fitting wideband innovate AEM:eBay Motors (item 330375266131 end time Dec-07-09 15:20:40 PST)
 
Whatever thats your oppinion. He he he he I have put on 10,000 miles with this setup as well as several quarter mile passes at 12.3 sec with no issues!! The only alternator bracket that i eliminated was the rinky dink rod in the rear, it still has two other mounting points. I did the pipe as a spacer thing when i installed headers on my '79 and did work great but this time said screw it.
 

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