Help! Can't remove the four bolts connecting the half-shaft to the trailing arm!

[Bolisk]

I'm started my trailing arm rebuild project, and I've got everything disconnected except for the half-shaft and the forward pivot pin. I' went to take the half-shaft off the spindle. . .and I found that three of the four bolts are seized in place. My impact wrech isn't making a dent. . .and a breaker bar is not working either.

I soaked the three areas un PB Blaster last night. . .and I'm going to try to hit it with the impact wrench this evening. . .but I've never really had any success with any penetrating fluid. So. . .assuming this wont work. . .any other suggestions?

The only torch that I have is one of those gneric blue bottel torches that I use for plumming. If I heat the area up with that. . .do you think it will help? Or is that not hot enough? If I do heat it up. . .with that alter the metal's strengh. . .therefor preventing me from re-using parts?

I'm just a home DIY-er so please provide ideas that are do-able at the house.

Regards
Jon

 

[coffeejolts]

How much torque does your impact wrench produce? If it's an electric one, you may need to rent a really strong air powered one and a compressor. Heat always helps. I've used those blue bottle torches on bolts before. All you can do is give it a try.

Remember to wear good leather welding gloves when you work around the hot metal... there are few things worse than slamming your knuckles against a hot piece of metal.

 

[Bolisk]

It's air powered. It's strong enough to remove lug nuts that are torqed to 100 foot/lbs.

Granted. . .it's a cheepo impact wrench. It's a Stanley and is claimed to be rated at 500 ft/lbs. . .but I doubt it.

Here are the specs (I got it on sale at Menards for $35!)

Manufacturer's SKU78-343ManufacturerStanleyShipping Weight4.5000ConditionNewManufacturers WarrantyLifetimeReturn PolicyUnopened Only, 30 DaysAddl Specs

• Torque: 500 ft-lb
• RPM: 7,000
• Square Drive: 1/2"
• Air Inlet: 1/4"
• CFM @ 90 PSI: 3.3
• SCFM: 24

 

[coffeejolts]

I think 500 ft-lbs would be enough to loosen any fastener. This is a long shot. Try heating up the fasteners with the torch, then soaking them in liquid wrench. Perhaps the oil will get pulled in as the metal cools.

 

[Bolisk]

I agree. . .that 500 ft/lbs should be enough. But I'm not sure I'm actually getting that. This wrench can remove 100ft/lbs tightened lug nuts. . .but it takes it a while to get them started. So. . .I'm not sure it's actually 500ft/lbs.

On a related note: When a wrench says it is rated for 90psi. ..is that 90psi when it's RUNNING, or initial pressure? For example. I have my air regulator set to 90psi. But when I pull the trigger, it drops to something like 60psi. I've noticed that when I put the regulator to 120psi, when I pull the trigger, it drops to about 90psi. So what should I have the regulator set to? A RUNNING psi of 90 (120 not running) or just set the regulator to 90 NON-RUNNING.

-Jon

 

[coffeejolts]

My understanding is that the tool needs 90 PSI when it is running.

 

[redvett]

Ditch the regulator and put some light oil in the air intake port. Use a 6 point (black) hardened socket an hit the socket tight on the bolt head and use your inpact on it. BTDT.

 

[Bolisk]

Ditch the regulator and put some light oil in the air intake port. Use a 6 point (black) hardened socket an hit the socket tight on the bolt head and use your inpact on it. BTDT.

Sorry, you kinda lost me. . .

What do you mean by ditch the regulator? Completely remove from my air system? Or just crank it all the way up?

I allways use oil in my air tools

I'm using a 6 point impact socket.

The bolt heads are becomming slighly stripped from prevous atempts. Not sure what you mean by "hit the socket tight on the bolt head". Did you mean "fit"?

-Jon

 

[redvett]

Sorry, you kinda lost me. . .

What do you mean by ditch the regulator? Completely remove from my air system? Or just crank it all the way up?

I allways use oil in my air tools

I'm using a 6 point impact socket.

The bolt heads are becomming slighly stripped from prevous atempts. Not sure what you mean by "hit the socket tight on the bolt head". Did you mean "fit"?

-Jon

Cranking the regulator up will still cause a restriction, if you can put a tee in the line from the tank and have two outlets one for regulated air and one for the impact guns which require lots of volume.

 

[Bolisk]

I see!

Yeah that would probably be a good idea.

Good news is, I cranked the regulator all the way up to 120, and the gun ran at about 90psi. It knocked them out with almost no effort!!! So I'm good with those.

Now the problem is that the piviot pin (the part the the TA piviots on in the frame) is rusted in. Guess I will have to use a saws-all.

-Jon

 

[67 side piper]

I'm started my trailing arm rebuild project, and I've got everything disconnected except for the half-shaft and the forward pivot pin. I' went to take the half-shaft off the spindle. . .and I found that three of the four bolts are seized in place. My impact wrech isn't making a dent. . .and a breaker bar is not working either.

I soaked the three areas un PB Blaster last night. . .and I'm going to try to hit it with the impact wrench this evening. . .but I've never really had any success with any penetrating fluid. So. . .assuming this wont work. . .any other suggestions?

The only torch that I have is one of those gneric blue bottel torches that I use for plumming. If I heat the area up with that. . .do you think it will help? Or is that not hot enough? If I do heat it up. . .with that alter the metal's strengh. . .therefor preventing me from re-using parts?

I'm just a home DIY-er so please provide ideas that are do-able at the house.

Regards
Jon

hey jon...you might want to try the yellow bottle which is called map gas. it gets things a little hotter than the blue bottle gas.

 

[Bolisk]

ok. . .anyone got any ideas on how to get the TA off the frame?

I've removed the cotter pin and nut from the bolt that goes though the frame, shims, and TA bushing.

But I cannot. . .for the life of me. . .get the bolt out! I've tried to cut through the rubber bushing. . .and bolt with a saws-all. . .and all I appear to be doing is creating a bunch of smoke.

Anyone have any advice?

 

[LVMYVT76]

I used a saws all and a long blade, it took quite a while to cut thru the bolt.

 

[Bolisk]

I got a saws all with a 12 inch medium metal blade.

will that work?

 

[Bolisk]

please define quite a while. . .

I've had the saw on it for at least 20 minutes. . .don't feel like I'm making a dent.

 

[GTR1999]

The outer bushing sleeve is hardened so if you try that you'll never cut it. You need to cut in front of the washer.

 

[Bolisk]

Gary!!

OUTSTANDING INFORMATION!!!! Now, how in the name of all things holey do I cut on the other side of the washer if the shims are in the way? Can I pry the shims out? I don't know if the shims are slotted or not. . .what was stock from the factory?

-Jon

 

[73shark]

The shims are slotted but there is a cotter pin thru them to retain while the bolt is tightened. But you've already removed that so you should be able to pry the rusted shims out. Mine had morphed into a solid pack on each side. Recommend using st-st shims when putting back together.

 

[Bolisk]

Turnes out they are not slotted. . .they are not tucked into the frame. . .and did not have the pin through them. So I guess I'm screwed.

So were, exactly, should I be making the cut? Through the bushing it's self. . .or try to cut in between two of the shims?

 

[Art Jett]

If you use carbide blades for the sawsall, you will have better luck. I only used 1 per trailing arm and I cut through the sleeve and all. art