Help! Can't remove the four bolts connecting the half-shaft to the trailing arm!

[shark454]

If you use carbide blades for the sawsall, you will have better luck. I only used 1 per trailing arm and I cut through the sleeve and all. art

Had to sawsall both sides of mine. Went through a few blades.

 

[Bolisk]

Ok!!!

So, I've discovered a way to remove the TA in less than 15 minutes!!!!!!

Like most people I went and got a sawzall and a whole stack of blades and began trying to cut through the rubber bushing, and then through the hardened steel colar (part of the bushing) that the piviot bolt was passing through. After about 10 blades. . .and making zero progress. . .I decieded what the hell. . .I'll try to cut through the non-hardened steel. . .and see what happens. I'm VERY happy to report that you can cut through the shims and bolt like butter if you use the proper blades. I went out and bought a 5 pack of the Milwaukee "The Torch" 3/16" - 1/4" Metal Cutting Bi-Metal blades. Speciffically PART NUMBER: 48-00-5787. I used the 9" blades with 14 tpi. The back of the package says that the blades have "Cobalt" in them.

Now, I have attached a crude drawing of my trailing arm, the bushing (silver and black) and the shims and non-hardened steel washers that my car had. On one side I cut on the washer just on the outside of the bushing, and on the other TA I cut between two shims. I marked both areas in the drawing with arrows. I found it easier to cut the small washer just outside the bushing. . .as the hardened steel part of the bushing helped guide the blade. . .and keep it straight.

I cannot believe how fast I was able to get the TA's out of the car! The trick is to not put the sawzall on full speed. Keep the speed about medium .. .and you will see metal flakes being chunked out of the shims like the damn sawzall is just eating away. I completely blew me away!!! This was after at least an hour of hacking away at the hardened steel!! I've inspected the hardened steel that I was trying to cut at first. . .and all I did was make a little dimple in the hardened steel.

The only down side to this method is that you cannot reuse the shims. But I would gladly pay the $30 or so for new SS shims. . .then spend 12 hours of my life trying to cut through the hardened steel of the bushing.

So a couple of other tips. Support the end of the trailing arm with a Jack while you cut. . .so that it doesn't just fall out. . .potenitally damaging the TA. Also, you will probably find that the TA is wedged fairly tighly between the shims. . .even after you have cut the bolt. I used a 5 pound rubber deadblow mallet. . .and hammered up from below just before the TA passed into the frame. . .and that freed the TA from between the shims. The rest of the shims and bolt just fell out. Turns out the bolt was seized inside the bushing for me.

I truely hope this helps people avoid some fustration in the future. Only last tip. . .you need to have at least the 9 inch blade. . .but I suspect that a 10, 11, or even 12 inch blade would have made it easier.

Best Regards,
JonR

 

[damoroso]

Thank you sir! That's one of the great things about this forum, you're able share information and to learn from others!!

 

[GTR1999]

I believe 70 was the last year for the double hole shims. I know I drilled the frame in my 69 to use the slotted shims and long cotter pin,like the 71-82's.
Now you have them out you're going to need to install new bushings,which require compressing and staking.