Cheap brake pads vs hi priced pads?

[MagikDraggin]

It's getting close to brake pad replacement time and I was at the local Autozone seeing what was available.
They have their "standard" pads for 16 bucks an axle, and then they have their "carbon metallic" pads for 60 bucks for the fronts and 50 bucks for the back.

Both have "lifetime replacement guantee", so if the cheapies wear out quicker, except for my time, they are replaced for free. But what about stopping power? Would I sacrifice critical stopping power by going the "cheap" route over the expensive way?

I'm not into autocrossing or racing.....just lots and lots of crusing. Safety is a big factor. But if they both stop the 'vette in about the same distance, why spend the xtra bucks?

1996 LT1, ZZ409 roller cam, 3.54 gears, TPIS longtube headers, 52mm TB, 2400 TC, Corsas, K&N, Chrome Y2K.

 

[kingman]

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hi

Whatever you do make sure you get the best brakes available to go with your modifications. Do not go looking to save a dime because it can save you thousands down the road not to mention your life.


Also make sure that your new pads have a clip like the Delco to prevent pad rattles.

Alan

 

[Eagle85C4]

I personally will not scrimp to save a few bucks where safety is concerned. I bought the best pads available for my 85 at the time, which was Raybestoes Pro Grade. They stop you on a dime and there is no dust to speak of on my polished ZR-1 rims which to me was value added.
Why take chances with the car you love....and your life?

 

[MagikDraggin]

Thanks to both you and Kingman for your replies. That is just the point....I do not want to sacrifice quality over cost.

What I was wondering was if the cheapies really were that bad in stopping power, or is it simply that they wear out faster because of the material used?

 

[cntrhub]

Mag, Here is a tip when you look at a set of different pads. Look at the back of the pads and see if there is a punched hole on the metal backing? What you are looking for is, how closely packed is the pad material? If not, just look at the surface of the pads. Now if they have that break-in film covering the surface, it's going to be hard to determine the density. And that's basically what you're looking for. How porous is the brake material?
The more densely packed the pad material, the longer it will last. If the surface material looks like there are tiny gaps between the pressed brake material, this is a softer compound brake pad.
So what kind of pad stops the car quicker? It will be a softer pad. A harder pad will require more pedal to scrape the material off surface. While a softer pad grabs right now to slow you down.
Of course, if the brake material is more porous, it will not last as long as the more dense type pad. But both will work.
Ok, so now lets look at the cheap-o set and the quality set? Do you think in this litigation type atmosphere, a company will sell a poor quality type brake component on the market without the NHTSA breathing down their back?
If they make a pad for your car and it's well priced (cheaper)..... your only downside is that they don't meet your expectations. I doubt they will cause an accident if installed correctly. You may experience brake fade with softer pads. But if you are experiencing that, you're driving too fast on the street.

 

[TWINRAY]

Make sure they ain't Organic - WETF that means. Ground up acorns, treebark, bird poop etc. I had Organic Bendix pads on my '75 Blazer. Put about 5K miles on them and parked the vehicle for a coupla years. Looked at the brakes and they were down to the metal. The "Organic" must have just desinagrated (sp).

 

[Gman]

The raybestos pro pads aren't cheap [ $109.00 at Pep Boys for the fronts ) but the quality is well worth it. No noise or dust and a noticible increase in stopping power and a decrease in fade. I'm happy.

 

[wx briefer]

I just bought the Auto Zone 'friction performance' pads. I thought they were the Z rated. They ain't! and they don't stop 'wuf a dang'. If you go performance friction, make sure you get the 'Z' rated. They dust some, but they stop really quick. Of course, the best, according to some out there, is the 'hawk' brand.

 

[MagikDraggin]

Thanks again for all the comments and tips. I realize at first , this is a "no brainer", but the underlying thought is, not price as much as quality compared with longevity.

I went with the Z rated ceramic metallic pads. I am told that they will generate a fair amount of dust until they "break in" in about 500 miles. I couldn't locate the RayBestos brand around town here.

Again, thanks to all who responded.

Karl

 

[kim]

I always use Hawk pads, you get what you pay for.

 

[John Robinson]

As for me I went to Advance Auto Parts took the pads they recommeded as OEM replacements and put them on the car. It stops there is no brake lag while they get hot in traffic and I can jump into the brakes at 100+ and pull g's while stopping. For a street car that is all that is required. I have been running this set of brakes for almost 60k and they still have plenty of pad left.

 

[TedC]

As for me I went to Advance Auto Parts took the pads they recommeded as OEM replacements and put them on the car. It stops there is no brake lag while they get hot in traffic and I can jump into the brakes at 100+ and pull g's while stopping. For a street car that is all that is required. I have been running this set of brakes for almost 60k and they still have plenty of pad left.

I agree. Key word is "street" car. I've had great service with pads from AA and AZ. Can't say the same for the NAPA brand. The AA pads fit perfectly in my 1988 and AZ "gold" pads fit perfectly in my 1989. For me, I avoid the lowest priced pads, but have no need to install $100 high performance pads either.