Clutch NOT disengaging....

[waterboy1976]

Ok, new engine.......runs like a beast...rebuilt trans...... clutch WONT disengage, z bar adjustment almost alll the way at the end of the rod. Grinds going into reverse, grinds going into any gear. Any suggestions.??:confused

 

[JohnZ]

Did you change either the flywheel, bellhousing, clutch, throwout bearing, or clutch fork from what you had before?

 

[waterboy1976]

Its all new....except the flywheel was just machined down and reinstalled. New throwout bearing, disc and pressure plate. Damper springs on the disc were installed facing the trans not the flywheel side.

Could my throwout bearing be installed on the fork wrong? Like I misaligned to spring end on the fork and put it over the back of the bearing? Instead of putting it all into the same groove?

 

[commando57]

Is everything bolted up tight?
Are you having starter engagement trouble?

 

[Stallion]

Does it just not disengage? What I'm saying is, does the actual pedal go to the floor? If the pedal does not even budge, I had that problem a couple of months ago. For me, it was because a spring totally snapped off and was jamming up the pressure plate. Did you try to drive with the clutch? A mis-install might have caused that. It's only guessing until you look in the housing.

 

[waterboy1976]

It is not disengaging all the way..Clutch pedal goes to the floor and it picks up pressure at about 2inches down..but when you go to shift into any gear its grinding.

 

[JohnZ]

If you had the wrong T/O bearing or if it was installed wrong on the fork, your problem would be in the other direction (would move the pushrod end of the fork further forward, not rearward). What kind of clutch was used? Did you measure the height of the fingers on the new and old clutch pressure plates to compare them before installing the new clutch? The clutch linkage is designed for a bent-finger diaphragm clutch - if you used a straight-finger clutch instead, that could cause the symptoms you describe.

 

[GTR1999]

I'm going to take a guess and say you installed a Centerforce Clutch? If I'm right you have a geometry problem with the linkage and will need to replace the ball stud. If I'm wrong then it sure wouldn't be the first time in my life!

 

[bossvette]

are you using the origional clutch linkage to the car, was the car a 4-speed or an auto converted to manual? There are several different clutch forks for Chevy V-8's. If you are convertiong to a 4 speed from an auto you may have mismatched parts.

 

[waterboy1976]

car was an original 4 speed car yes...using a RAM powergrip clutch. When I hooked everything up the throwout fork was farther forward than previous (cause adj rod was farther out due to a worn out clutch). The trans was rebuilt at this same time. Thanks for all your guys help....

 

[bossvette]

I hate to say it but you may need an adjustable pivot ball stud, lakewood makes them.

there is a distance that should be maintained I will see if I can find it for you.

 

[Stallion]

So let me get this straight, the transmission is stock, as well as the flywheel. And you have a clutch kit (clutch disc, pressure plate, new bearings, etc.). So the only non-stock is the clutch kit? Provided he bought the right kit, he shouldn't need an adjustable pivot ball stud. Right?

My 2 pennies...

 

[waterboy1976]

lets start with "suppose he put it together correctly" Ive done about 4 clutches before and have never had this problem...Ive thought about the longer vs shorter throwout bearing. My GM parts manual is only listing a 1.25 inch one. So that is cornfusing me there, cause Ive read about a 1.50 inch one also. Trans is 100% stock and 100% rebuilt. Nothing changed there. Flywheel is stock steel came off the car. Machined though. No problems with starter engaging. If I put the trans into reverse PRIOR to starting the car it is fine. Lets the clutch out it goes back fine BUT it kind of wants to go with the clutch depressed also. Which tells me the clutch is not disengaging....Ball stud looked good when I reassembled everything. Maybe I just installed something wrong. I put the damper springs on the clutch disc facing toward the trans (rear) and dont think I installed the throwout bearing incorrectly......

 

[bossvette]

from my Lakewood instructions:

the dimension from the mating surface of the bell housing to the ball stud should be 4.750 minus any difference from the stock flywheel thickness of .950; ie if the flywheel measures .920 the dimension would be 4.720.

it goes on to state if the flywheel has signifantly below the factory specification the clutch disc springs may contact the flywheel bolts resulting in improper release and possible damage.

measure the flywheel at the center from the crankshaft mating surface to the friction surface.

 

[waterboy1976]

according to my machine shop who machined the flywheel, it was at stock thickness prior to machinging and they just took the minimum off to refresh the surface....

 

[GTR1999]

Ok so I was wrong,not a centerforce clutch. I haven't heard if RAM has the same problem. I know some guys have used different Z bars too because of the arm position and it's much easier to replace then the ball stud. I'm sorry but I don't recall what years the Z bar came out of,pretty sure if was a midyear though.You might try the Centerforce web site to get an idea of the dimensioning they recommend for their clutches then contact RAM. Good Luck.

 

[bossvette]

according to the lakewood instructions there are two different legnth "stock" Chevy pivots. Think of it as a fulcrum with the ball as the pivot, in order to produce say 1" of movement at the short end (clutch) you must move the long end 3". If the load (clutch) is raised in relation to the pivot (the flywheel resurfaced) the lever must move that much more before it does its work. Raising the pivot point via an adjustable or longer ball stud will bring it back into spec.

I would measure your flywheel and see if it is near .950