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Clutch Pedal Stays Down


Active member
Nov 29, 2014
Scott County, KY
2000 Triple Black Convertible 6speed
I too have a stuck pedal. Backed out of the driveway nine days ago 20 Jan (5 am, 32deg) into the street. Just putzin along with low rev (2000) easy shifts. Got into fourth and the pedal stayed down. I can pop it back to the top with my toe, but no matter where the pedal is, the clutch will not disengage.
Driving to work and back in the morning was fun shifting without the clutch. Drove my '05 2500HD this evening. (171,000 miles, that clutch works fine) The master cylinder is full with clean fluid and no leaks anywhere.
Vette's sat in the drive from 9:30 am until 8:00 pm. Time/temp didn't fix it. Clutch is still engaged no matter where the pedal is. The pedal wants to stay on the floor.
Now today 29 Jan after I finished my wife's car and cleared the garage, when I went to put the Vette in there THE DAMN THING WORKED FINE !!

I think I'll concentrate on the master cylinder.
Flush the clutch fluid and refill with fresh then drive it some.

My '08 Vette did something like that but it was under warranty. Dealer replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder plus put in all new fluid after flushing the system. Never had another problem with it.

On my '13, I had the clutch fluid flushed and replaced last year because the fluid started looking real dark and getting gooey just to stay ahead of any problem with it.
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Unclipped the fluid reservoir from the firewall (move the washer fluid tank out of the way) and dumped out the fluid. Managed not to get any on the paint.
YOW!! It was black and gooey! Cleaned the inside spotless. Cleaned the cap and rubber insert too.

Refilled it and had instant better pedal. Probably wishful thinking since the hose and master cylinder still had the icky stuff in it.

Anyway, I can drive it now. I'll keep an eye on it periodically.

All of you should watch yours too.
Should have added this method also.

Reaching the bleeder from the engine compartment:

I found this from the Forum, not my writeup.

“One way that I have found is to pull the intake manifold for the C5 and C6 Corvettes. We have ported hundreds of manifolds so we have become proficient at pulling intake manifolds. (Total time to clean head ports and put it back on about 45min.) This will allow one to lay in and across the engine bay. With your head right at the firewall with a 9mm combination wrench and a light just barely have enough room to see the port, pop off the rubber cap (leave it off) and open it while someone else is depressing the clutch pedal. Bleed it just like a brake system, one person (A) holds pedal, the other (B) opens the port till fluid pours out and then closes, (A) pumps pedal till firm again and then repeat till fluid is clear, 3-12 cycles. Remember to check the reservoir! Refill it so you do not get any air in the line. Earlier F bodies and GTOs may be accessible from under the car and may not require pulling the intake manifold.”

I had done this on other cars over the years (and bikes) so I tried it on the Vette and it worked! Car's up on jack stands.

Gravity bleeding by just opening the bleed screw on the slave cylinder and letting it drip into a pan worked great.

Moved the pedal up and down slowly by hand a few times at the beginning starts things flowing and made sure there were no obstructions.

Kept the reservoir topped off and just let it go. After about half of a LARGE bottle of fluid I closed the bleed screw.
Then I pumped the pedal by hand a few times. Got some bubbles come to the top.

All is well! Have a great pedal now.

BTW: Snapped off 4 of 6 manifold flange studs. Good thing I have a cutoff wheel. Chevy Parts wanted $14 EACH for new studs. Nuts extra. NAPA had generic ones next day, a package of 6 studs & 6 nuts for $14. Driver's side done. Lowe's has a combo pack with a metric tap 10mm x 1.5 and a drill bit.

Blizzard on the way. Passenger side later.

So after removing all that you can get to the bleeder fairly easy?
Nimble Fingers Required


I found this picture on the internet. This torque tube is oriented as you'll see it under the car. From underneath you can easily see the hard line as it enters the housing. The bleed screw is above the hard line and points at an angle toward the driver's side.

You CANNOT reach straight up from under the bleeder to reach it. Position yourself about where this red screwjack is and look forward.
Then you can see the bleeder and the angle you need to place the box wrench. I had out both an 11mm and a 7/16 wrench. I think I used the 7/16.

Have fun !

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