Clutch Problem

[RonnieH]

I backed my Vette out of the garage today with no problem. When I pushed in the clutch to shift into 1st, the clutch went almost to the floor and then hung up. I can lift the pedal with my foot and it "pops" all the way out. However, there is free play when pushing in the pedal until it gets almost to the floor. From there, there is not enough engagement to shift into gear. It hangs up in that position until I raise the pedal with my foot. We have had some very cold weather, but I don't suspect it is weather related since the car is garaged.

I checked the clutch reservoir and the fluid is a little low, but the reservoir is not empty. I will go to NAPA in the morning to get some fluid and bring the reservoir up to level. I am wondering if the system requires some type of bleeding after topping off the reservoir.

If this does not resolve the issue, I am hoping someone may offer something to try before having it towed to a dealer as a last resort if all else fails.

Thanks in advance for any help

2003 Convertible, 6 spd, 40,000 miles.

 

[kpic]

If your fluid looks as clean and clear as froggy's does you own a well maintained vehicle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIgzLmPe-eA

However, it probably doesn't so: 97vette.com

 

[dadaroo]

You may have an issue with the Clutch Over Center Spring. Take a look at this link:

Removing clutch spring - SmokinVette.com Forums

 

[kpic]

You may have an issue with the Clutch Over Center Spring. Take a look at this link:

Removing clutch spring - SmokinVette.com Forums

I'm curious, which is the most common issue; dirty fluid or the spring?

From your link:

#PIP3821B: Removal Of The Clutch Over Center Spring - keywords cylinder
hydraulic master pedal - (Apr 15, 2008)

Condition/Concern:
It appears that some Corvette owners are removing or disconnecting the clutch over center spring on their vehicles.

Why would anyone remove it; especially when the name warns why it should not be removed?

 

[dadaroo]

I am not saying his is removed but is it broken?

 

[RonnieH]

Thanks for the responses so far. First thing I'll try is the easiest - flush the system w/new fluid. I'll let everyone know if that solves the problem, but at this point I'm skeptical. If the problem persists after that, I'm thinking the slave cylinder may be the culprit. I've recently had a hip replacement and not moving all that well, so replacing the slave cylinder may be a stretch for me.

If I do need to replace it, hopefully someone can share their experience changing the cylinder with me or point me to a DIY article or scan me a copy of how to replace it from a shop manual.

Will let everyone know how things work out.

 

[dadaroo]

If you need to replace the slave it is a major deal. Drop the rear suspension, tranny, and diff. Then unbolt the bell housing and pull everything back. I have some links if you need them later. Plan on doing more than the slave once you are in there, I would.

 

[kpic]

I am not saying his is removed but is it broken?

As I can read, I know.

#PIP3821B: Removal Of The Clutch Over Center Spring - keywords cylinder
hydraulic master pedal - (Apr 15, 2008)

Condition/Concern:
It appears that some Corvette owners are removing or disconnecting the clutch over center spring on their vehicles.

I quoted the link you posted.

The function of a "Clutch Over Center Spring" is obvious. Often people do some odd things and wondered if you heard why.

 

[RonnieH]

Success

I tried the EZ solution first and it worked to my amazement! The way my luck runs, I was convinced the slave cylinder would have to be replaced which would have been very time consuming and very expensive.

I removed the old fluid from the master cylinder, filled with new fluid and pumped the clutch. After about the 5th or 6th pump, the clutch started coming back to life. I cleaned some junk out of the bottom of the reservoir and after the 2nd cycle, the fluid was clear. The procedure I read said to expect to do 10 cycles of removing the old fluid, refilling with new and pumping the clutch 20 times. I did four cycles total and only used about 12 oz. of fluid - the procedure I read said to expect using about 4 qts. of fluid. I think I'll drive it a couple of hundred miles and flush it again just to be sure. The worst is yet to happen when my wife discovers I stole her turkey baster for removing the old fluid.

Moving forward, I think I'll just flush the system every couple of years. I looked at the brake master cylinder and it looked like it had a film on top, so I'm going to change it as well.

Thanks again for everyone's input - there's not much members of the CAC can't help with.

There are several sites describing the flushing procedure, but the one I used is: theredlion.us " , click on " Tech Tips ", then
" DIY instrs " and then
" Clutch fluid maintenance DIY

Thanks again to everyone.

 

[kpic]

I tried the EZ solution first and it worked to my amazement! The way my luck runs, I was convinced the slave cylinder would have to be replaced which would have been very time consuming and very expensive.

Good to read you "survived" the experience inexpensively.

 

[Toms007]

Since buying my C6 manual trans, in August, I've read a lot about this issue. I went out to take a look and mine was dark and murky. I did the same thing you did and got it back to clear. I'll be doing mine on a regular basis now, maybe even a couple times a summer when I am driving the car more. Glad yours worked out the way it did.

 

[dadaroo]

To the OP, glad what you did helped. However, if you had that kind of issue you really need to actually bleed the system to properly flush it. It is not hard to do. The Ranger method is like trying to flush your brake system by just sucking out fluid from the master cylinder and refilling it. If you need guidance on bleeding let us know.

 

[kpic]

Since buying my C6 manual trans, in August, I've read a lot about this issue. I went out to take a look and mine was dark and murky. I did the same thing you did and got it back to clear. I'll be doing mine on a regular basis now, maybe even a couple times a summer when I am driving the car more. Glad yours worked out the way it did.

A bud flips cars and one of his checks to see how well a vehicle was maintained is check the clutch fluid.

 

[RonnieH]

Problem Is Back

To the OP, glad what you did helped. However, if you had that kind of issue you really need to actually bleed the system to properly flush it. It is not hard to do. The Ranger method is like trying to flush your brake system by just sucking out fluid from the master cylinder and refilling it. If you need guidance on bleeding let us know.

Any info. on properly bleeding the system would be greatly appreciated - thanks.

Just when I thought all was well, problem resurfaced last week. While visiting out of town, it snowed and the car was outside. Put it in reverse and after backing up, clutch hung up when I went to shift into 1st. Later that day, tried pumping the clutch several times and it freed up.

So, I'm thinking some air in the system or still contamination issue. The fluid in the master cylinder was clear just as the same as when I changed out the fluid, but I'm guessing there is still some contaminated fluid "downstream". I would appreciate info on bleeding the system. I'm going to try bleeding the master cylinder by removing the moisture barrier, replacing the cap lightly, pumping the clutch several times and replacing the moisture barrier. If any air in the master cylinder, this should remove it. If I have to bleed the slave cylinder, I would appreciate any info. Someone mentioned you had to remove the transmission to do this, but hopefully that is less than accurate. If I can bleed the slave cylinder, seems to me that would eliminate any air in the system (if present) as well as drain out any potentially contaminated fluid.

Thanks in advance for any help. If anyone has a service manual and there is info. on the problem, I would appreciate it greatly if you could scan it and send to me. I have a friend who has a service manual for C4 & C6, but not for the C5.

 

[dadaroo]

Reaching the bleeder from the engine compartment:

I found this from the Forum, not my writeup.

One way that I have found is to pull the intake manifold for the C5 and C6 Corvettes. We have ported hundreds of manifolds so we have become proficient at pulling intake manifolds. (Total time to clean head ports and put it back on about 45min.) This will allow one to lay in and across the engine bay. With your head right at the firewall with a 9mm combination wrench and a light just barely have enough room to see the port, pop off the rubber cap (leave it off) and open it while someone else is depressing the clutch pedal. Bleed it just like a brake system, one person (A) holds pedal, the other (B) opens the port till fluid pours out and then closes, (A) pumps pedal till firm again and then repeat till fluid is clear, 3-12 cycles. Remember to check the reservoir! Refill it so you do not get any air in the line. Earlier F bodies and GTOs may be accessible from under the car and may not require pulling the intake manifold. From underneath: How to Bleed the Clutch Hydraulics - Corvetteforum Picture of bleeder in Post 10: Clutch Bleeding? - Corvette Forum <!-- / message -->

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[RonnieH]

Great Info

Reaching the bleeder from the engine compartment:

I found this from the Forum, not my writeup.

One way that I have found is to pull the intake manifold for the C5 and C6 Corvettes. We have ported hundreds of manifolds so we have become proficient at pulling intake manifolds. (Total time to clean head ports and put it back on about 45min.) This will allow one to lay in and across the engine bay. With your head right at the firewall with a 9mm combination wrench and a light just barely have enough room to see the port, pop off the rubber cap (leave it off) and open it while someone else is depressing the clutch pedal. Bleed it just like a brake system, one person (A) holds pedal, the other (B) opens the port till fluid pours out and then closes, (A) pumps pedal till firm again and then repeat till fluid is clear, 3-12 cycles. Remember to check the reservoir! Refill it so you do not get any air in the line. Earlier F bodies and GTOs may be accessible from under the car and may not require pulling the intake manifold. From underneath: How to Bleed the Clutch Hydraulics - Corvetteforum Picture of bleeder in Post 10: Clutch Bleeding? - Corvette Forum <!-- / message -->

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Great feedback!!

Gives new meaning to "more than one way to skin a cat". Great info. I took out the moisture barrier in the master cylinder and pumped the clutch several times to see if I could force out any air thru the cap for the master cylinder. Just prior to that, I removed all the fluid and replaced w/new fluid one last time - fluid was still clear from the last time I changed it. Will see if this produces good results. If problem occurs again, will bleed the system from under the hood as you have suggested.

Thanks again