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Clutch replacement

sinestr

Active member
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
39
Location
Arizona
Corvette
2015 Red Stingray Coupe
How many miles will the clutch on a LT4 go assuming it has not been run hard? I now have 48K miles on the clock.
 
60,000 to over 100,000 miles
 
As a retired engineer that used to design heavy duty clutches for farm tractors, here is my experienced opinon: a clutch that is not slipped enough to get it hot, will last almost forever. Friction material people will tell you that their clutch material only wears when it gets hot. My rule of thumb is to only slip a clutch for 3 seconds max at full power. Backing up at idle, you can slip the clutch for as long as 10 seconds max, especially if the car is dead cold right after start up. Hope this helps.
 
I put over 100K on my clutch and I drove the car hard - but I didn't slip the clutch much. It was still working fine when I had the motor pulled for modifications but I figured it was about used up and it was very, very close to being gone.
 
Clutch Wear

Tuna said:
I put over 100K on my clutch and I drove the car hard - but I didn't slip the clutch much. It was still working fine when I had the motor pulled for modifications but I figured it was about used up and it was very, very close to being gone.
I have 100K on mine and it doesn't slip but it does feel fully engaged near the top of travel. With the hydraulics automatically adjusting, I don't know if that is nornal or an indicator that I may need to replace the clutch soon. Anyone know what having a new clutch installed in an LT4 costs?
 
Clutch replacement cost

rwpeders said:
I have 100K on mine and it doesn't slip but it does feel fully engaged near the top of travel. With the hydraulics automatically adjusting, I don't know if that is nornal or an indicator that I may need to replace the clutch soon. Anyone know what having a new clutch installed in an LT4 costs?
The guy I bought my car from paid about $825 to the dealer to have the clutch replaced prior to my purchasing the car. That included resurfacing the flywheel, new OEM clutch parts and bearing. Seems high for a non-performance type clutch to me, glad I didn't pay for it.
 
Mine only has 22000 on it and my clutch is toast. I bought the car this fall. It was mostly lady driven, original run flats with even wear, I assume she was riding the clutch. The flywheel is the most expensive part. $1400 at the dealer. The rest is normal pricing. Clutch kit runs around $350. I have been told the flywheel is not supposed to be resurfaced due to it's dual mass design. But people have said they do resurface them. I am taking mine apart over the winter.
 
I did mine last month at 88K. Nothing wrong with the clutch, but the fork pivot post bolt backed out and rubbed on the clutch plate during the last inch of travel on the pedal. I understand that this is not uncommon on the ZF6.

While I was in there, I used the Zip products C-beam reinforcing nut plates ($180) to stiffen the beam at the connections. It solved a 'creaking' noise I was having during initially backing up and going forward. I put in a new GM clutch kit ($375 from the Last Detail) and only touched up the original flywheel using a scotch-brite wheel in a drill. DO NOT machine the dual mass flywheel. The elastomer membrane between the two plates will disentergrate when coming into contact with the machine shop cutting fluid. That will result in a bad rattling flywheel that won't last very long!

Get some loctite blue and put a drop on the fork pivot post bolt and torque to 30 pounds and then on the other side of the bell housing, torque the set screw that goes into the bolt to (18? pounds).
 

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