Code 32 still

[Marv02]

I know code 32 is a EGR trouble code I have changed out the EGR valve installed a new EGR Solonoid new plug and still getting the Code 32.

I been thinking could it be a pluged Intake EGR passage.

If I have to pull the intake to clean the intake I mite as well put a better intake on while I at it.

And here we go If I put some Summit Aluminun head on at the same time and replace my stok Iron heads on my 86.
And a set of Stamped 1.6 roller tip rockes.

Will this be worth doing, and how much gain will I get.

I was thinking about swaping the motor out but after doing a Compression check is good even across the board.

Good oil pressure No over heating Issues.

Will I have to mess with the computer chip.

The motor has 148000 miles on it.

I have read these motors can get 300000 miles out of them it's a street car not raced.

So what would be best just do the Intake , Intake, Head and Rockers.

No matter what I have to change the oil coolent, replace most of the same gaskets Ect.

 

[vetteoz]

Make sure the EGR temp switch is working ,common for the wire to break off.
If the switch is not working the computer does not know the EGR gas is flowing so it still throws a code

 

[boomdriver]

Like OZ says...that EGR switch wire is famous for breaking off the top of the switch or the wires breaking inside the insulation. Its routed back behind the distributor, so dig around there to see if its shorted or broken.

As far as the intake upgrades....I'd wait a while. Its pointless to upgrade the top end of a motor thats got 150K on the bottom end. All you'll do is finish off the bottom end in a painful way because you will have your foot in it lots more if you stick an intake and new heads on there.
When the time comes, rebuild the whole thing, or buy a GM crate motor/short block that you like. Get some forged bottom end parts for strength, (forged crank,HD rods and forged pistons kits are under $2000) and THEN buy some nice matched heads and intake or simply port-match some stock alum heads and have a GREAT base to add on to later. With a strong bottom end you can also add a small centrifical charger or a No2 kit and enjoy it safely with the stronger crank & rotating group.

Engines benefit the most when componants match. Intakes to heads, cranks/rods/pistons. Cams/lifters/rockers.

And yes, a real "Tune" to find and "set" the prom will be needed if you start changing any hard-parts. A new prom has to be made with the new timing, fuel curves, advance curves and temps. Thats not as costly as it sounds. Its just running the engine on a dyno with a computer, making adjustments and then setting a prom to do it the same way on the street.

And something that I advocate on ANY build, is balancing the bottom end.
Another little item thats worth its weight in gold, especially with a built motor is an oil accumalator. This is a little tank that has a solenoid and plunger that forces oil into the system BEFORE the engine cranks so there is never a "dry" start. I think its around 60 or 70% of engine wear comes from dry start up when the oil is in the pan just sitting there. The oil accumalator comes on with the key and pressurizes the oil before the starter. When you build something nice, this helps you keep it that way.

Plugged EGR passages are fairly rare with a clean running motor. I've seen some that were full of crud that were on an old worn out motor, but still not plugged. More common is the crushed or plugged off EGR tube. Sometimes the pipe gets crimped below the valve covers down low. That still should'nt set a code. Make sure the vac line for the EGR solenoid is plugged in to the right place. It should only be a ported vac fitting under the Throttle body since it only gets vac under some conditions.

Good Luck with it.

 

[MARCUS VETTE]

check line vacuum

I had this problem, check the line from your EGR to you solenoid and your solenoid to the TPS, look for leak, It could be there, in my case, it was there !!!

 

[John '85]

I too had a code 32 that would not go away. I found that one of the vacuum lines was connected in the wrong spot. Take a look at the vacuum routing diagram, on the left top radiator, and verify that all connections are correct. I have not had any code 32 since.