B17Crew's LT4 looks just perfect, I would like to get my engine to look like his, someday it will. My past owners apparently drove in the elements so there is a lot of dirt to remove and I need to find a way to make the silver parts look new again. The outside layer seems to oxidize and becomes dull and doesn't look new anymore.
Thanks rapril!
My ’96 served as a daily driver for eight years, that includes 8 years of Ohio winters, (and the salt) and Ohio downpours. It has been a labor of love getting my ’96 to its current condition. All parts are original and have not been replaced, except battery/tires. So... it is possible to bring a driven Corvette to very good condition. It just takes time. I’m still not finished detailing my car, I try to get to it whenever I can.
I wanted to mention that you can use
Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish on surfaces like your alternator and AC compressor. It also does a nice job on aluminum suspension pieces and any aluminum tubing.
Use a cotton rag and rub into the surface, then, wipe with a clean cotton towel. You will see the shine start to come back! I’ve used a toothbrush before to help scrub in tight spots, you have to watch that the product doesn’t “fling” off the brush though.
Try not to get it on rubber or plastic, as it will leave a white film if not immediately tended too; just like car wax on black painted surfaces would do. You could tape off areas that you want to protect also. You may even be able to use it on your manifold. Best to test in an inconspicuous space before using it on the manifold.
On all rubber hoses and ribbed plastic conduit, I’ve been using
Meguires Natural Shine, Vinyl & Rubber Protectant. I spray it onto a soft cotton cloth, apply liberally and let it soak in. Remove excess so that it’s not shinny. I try to keep my engine compartment looking “as delivered”, not the greasy, high gloss, used car detailed look.
For things like your black plastic fuel rail covers... First clean them with dish detergent and a toothbrush. Then, thoroughly rinse with water and let air dry. They looked pretty good after this and did not require any dressing.
Note, the driver side cover has clips that you must carefully remove so that they do not break. Gently remove the driver side fuel rail cover. As you lift it upwards, you can begin to turn it over so that you can see the two pins that secure the attached cable. Remember to be gentle with them!
You could try
303 Aerospace Protectant on your interior rubber/plastic pieces. It leaves a clean “new” look without having a greasy appearance. It also helps prevent UV fade damage.
Links to products/photo of product mentioned above:
Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Picture of 5 oz can)
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/rodi_1949_33622349
Mothers web site:Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish
http://www.mothers.com/products/
Meguiars Natural Shine & Rubber Protectant
http://www.meguiars.com/?home-vinyl-rubber-care/Natural-Shine-Vinyl-Rubber-Protectant
303 Aerospace Protectant
http://www.303products.com/tech/ind...&Product_ID=428&CFID=3477374&CFTOKEN=57239231
B17Crew
P.S. I noticed in the photo of your engine compartment that your
Fresh Air Vacuum Line is missing. If you look ahead of your throttle body (going left) on about the 5th rib of the black accordioned intake, You will notice a round “notch” that has a hole. There should be a black tube with a gray head going into your intake. It would connect to the distributor. I’m pretty sure that this is the tube that pulls fresh air from your intake and vents the OptiSpark. If you are still running the OptiSpark and have not installed an aftermarket distributor, you may want to install that as soon as you can. You can see it in my engine photos (you can run out the photos of my engine to help the Chevy parts department person identify the part you are in need of).