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Dash lights Quit Working

B

Bad65

Guest
Anyone with experience in trouble shooting dash lights. I replaced the dash light switch and everything works except the dash lights. Switch wasn't the problem. They were working last night and today they don't. Any clues on helping me figure out this one would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Vanessa
Bad 65
 
I can help......

I'll find a previous post......

BRB


Vig!
 
In addition

There is a ground attachment point @ the top/back of the dash.. to the left ( looking at the back of the dash) next to the high beam indicator...( Black with white tracer)

The actual dash illumation lights are on a grey wire... and if memory serves... it is a single lead ( making the ground from the gauge sheet metal)

So you MIGHT want to test the ground.. by taking a seperate clip lead and grounding the instrument sheet metal.

Still pondering this....

Vig!
 
Sooooo.

( Being unfamiliar with a 65 )

Are there lights in the center console area for the clock/ radio etc... do those work...is it just the dash or ALL?



Vig!
 
Checked the ground wire on the top of the dash, it is still good. However I have found an additional ground wire hanging and don't know where it would go and if its even related to the dimmer lights not working, the door light is working.
 
What color ?

Is that new ground wire........

Did you get my PM?

Vig!
 
Are you electrically inclined?

The circut is the following......

Power form the headlight switch ( batt source)

Goes thru the 1st pullout position routes thru the dimmer then ( I believe in your year) hits the fuse box... then goes out to the various light bulbs.

The socket for the bulbs has a single wire on it

to the center pin of the lamp... the lamp outer case goes to a sleeve... then out to the metal teeth to make the ground ( from socket to metal instrument casing)... If the casing is NOT grounded then you have an OPEN circut.


Again this THEORY is based on a 68 ( on up to 75) where the circut is in essecence the same.


Vig!
 
Odd foot note

It states in the 1965 Corvette specifications ( which I recieved a copy from GM a few years ago) that the operation of the dimmer......

Clockwise rotation
DIM TO OFF

And CCW rotation

OFF TO BRIGHT;FULL CCW rotation


Which seems backwards to ME!

A volume knob would turn Clockwise to make louder......

One would assmue that for lights on dash..

BUT NOOOOOOOO!

Backwards=brighter?????

Sumptin's fishy here!

Vig!
 
The Instrument fuse

Circut "D"

Is a 4 AMP fuse.. which also has the
Clock lamp.
Ignition lamp ( for key???)
heater controls lamp


The door ( courtsey lamp ) is a seperate circut.

Vig!

( Still digging )
 
Dimmer Lights

Vig,
Thanks for the help....I went out there and researched the instrument panel fuse and pushed it around and they came on. So I think that is what was the problem.....So now I have a 10 dollar new light switch and some working dimmer lights.

Thanks!!!!!
 
Ok.... changing gears here.

Assume for the sake of conversation.....

The glove box light

Is on the "C" circut

Which is also the.....
stop lamp
Dome lamp ( coupe )
Clock power
( If your clock doesnt work we need to address that too!)
courtsey lamps...


Again with the funky memory.

The glove box lamp would ( when closed ) would press a switch in the base of the lamp holder... and open the circut.

I have MANY questions before we can go further......

Like do you own a test light?
A digital DVM?

I know a great deal about electronics....
and I have been studying them(C-2's) for a LONG while.

I am looking to buy one in the next year or 2...

I'm currently building my 327/350 HP motor for when I find my dream wreck...

but currently I have no hands on with a C-2 series

C-3,4 and some C5 are my area's...of expertise..if you can call it that.

But electrons are electrons....


Vig!
 
Clock 101

So In the dark days of electronics.......

The "winding"mechanism of the clock was the following..

You had a coil of wire which when energized would PUSH a lever away... the pushing of the lever would tighten the clock spring up.


Tic-Tic-Tic-Tic-Tic-Tic-Tic-Tic-Tic-Tic-Tic-Tic-Tic-Tic-Tic-

This would now bring the arm back to it's"contact position" at the tip of the arm was a switch assy ( similar to points ) and onec the arm came in contact POOF the coil would energize again.. the arm would throw back...etc.etc.


Now after so many cycles... the "points" would start to get "crusty" and stick... leaving the coil energized all the time... just sitting there generating heat draining the battery.


So another potential problem.....


Vig!
 
Clock

Vig,
You are a book of knowledge. All I know about my clock is that it does run too fast and I have figured the mechanics of getting it to slow down. Any thoughts.

I did get my battery checked with the glove box drain and then took the bulb out and they checked again and I had no other drains.

Thanks againg for the fuse help with the lights!

Bad 65
 
Your WELCOME!

A plan comes together....

As far as the Clock speed is concerned...
( back to the research salt mines )

There is a trick... have to dig for it...

Runs fast huh?



Vig!
 
So the Clock

The shop manual states on how to remove it & replace it..but not how to set it.


If memory serves.......

You have to pull out the knob to set the time.

and you have to either push it in and turn it ccw to slow it down or cw to speed it up...

Something along those lines......


Vig!

Any other maladies?????

Post a pix of your ride... I LOVE C-2's
 

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