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DIC "Service Active Handling System" C1296 H C

Jistari

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2006
Messages
254
Location
New York
Corvette
2001 Black on Black A4 Coupe
I have had an intermittent "Service Active Handling" system DIC message on my 2001 Coupe since I bought it a year and a half ago. It would come and go (mostly off about 70% of the time). During that time I have had it back to the vette dealer that I got it from, who pulled the connections at each wheel and cleaned them. That cleared the error for a while. In addition to that, from reading I have done here, I pulled several of the ground point connectors (the two up front, and one by the B pillar) and cleaned and reconnected them. That also cleared the error for a while. Along the way, I've read about several other recurring gremlin type problems (leaky battery, clogged AC drain, water by access panel on passenger footwell) all of which I have looked at (and admittedly I'm not close to being a mechanic) but I don't see a problem in these areas.
The DIC message came back a few weeks ago, and I pulled the codes but had some difficulty finding a reference to the code on any of the lists I found (hence all the other stuff I tried). I have located a list that has the code on it, so before I go taking anything else apart, I'd like to check with someone who knows what they are doing :) <cough...cough...C4C5...<cough> :) The codes are as follows:

20 TCS
C1296 H C (<==took a while to find a list with 1296 on it)

BO_RFA
U1064H U1000

Info I found:
NETWORK CODES:
U1064 - Loss of Communications with DIM

Corvette Chassis Codes
C1292, C1293, or C1296 Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor Circuit

I was looking at the Master Cylinder. I don’t see any wires coming out there. I do see a connector under the brake fluid reservoir (popped the connector, looks clean, reconnected; popped the next connector (closer to the front of the vehicle on the wheel well, same thing...clean..reconnected). I also opened the cap on the reservoir, fluid level looks ok but I did see some particulate dirt on the inside of the rim. I pulled a few drops of fluid out to see if anything is suspended in the fluid, looks clean to me (not sure about the color though).

I have a few questions:

1) Is the connector I'm pointing to in the first picture the Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor? Does it come out easily? Should I replace it, clean it, not screw around with it?

MC.jpg


2) Does the fluid look as it should (color)? How concerned should I be about the particulate stuff in the (second and third and fourth) pictures?

MCRes.jpg

Fl2.jpg

Fl1.jpg



I did find a post about someone having a similar problem (included below):
"Thanks to the info I found here, I just fixed the same problem on my 01Z - Thanks Gleb!! Mine was really strange. After finding the connector, and doing continuity checks, I discovered something strange. The jumper cable that goes from the M/C connector, to the connector on the wheelwell, was wired backwards. Gray to orange, and orange to gray. I switched the wires around, and tada! it works! The strange part is, this car has 20K miles on it, and the code is just showing up? Gremlins....."
On inspection, I did note that the connector on the wheel well in my car is also wired grey to orange and orange to grey. I don’t see how you could plug it in any other way, so its not a matter of turning the plug. (see picture five)

Con2.jpg


3) Should I move these connections ? (putting grey to grey and orange to orange)
Con2a.jpg


I'm not wild about changing the connection, I only include it here due to finding a post that said it solved his similar problem, what do you think?

about the other error:

4) Whats a DIM? Any idea why it may not be communicating?

Thank you for your help with this.
 
HI there,
I will say that you certainly do your research.
First, the sensor on the master cylinder is for your brake fluid level.
Second, your brake fluid should be replaced about every 2 years to avoid contamination BUT I do not feel its part of your problem.
C1296 is a bit different then the C1292. Here is why.
C1296 is showing you that either your voltage signal is below .14 volts or abouve 4.9 volts. This is indicating a short to 5 volts reference that is sent to the sensor or there is NOT a signal being returned from the sensor.
This is slightly different from C1292, which indicated NO pressure on decelleration.
So, with that in mind, the diagram below shows you where the sensor is, on the EBTCM in front of your power steering.
The connection that you have shown, is the connector for the brake fluid pressure sensor, as it runs down to the sensor itself.
As with the other owner, check this connector for contamination and the associated wiring for any rubbed through wiring all the way down to the sensor.
Grey is your ground, black is your sensor signal and the orange is your 5 volts that is sent to your sensor.
Look inside, make sure there is no contamination, and follow this down to your sensor and look at the connection at the sensor. The wiring is correct, do NOT change your terminal locations.
Let us know what you find.
Allthebest, c4c5
 
If I'm gonna take your time with a question, I figure I better do as much as I can and ask the right one :)

I will follow the instructions when I can get some time with the car and post results.

Thank you for your prompt response and the good work you do here, we do appreciate it :) .
 
Just a quick note:

I checked the wireing from the MC to the clip on the fenderskirt (all ok). Checked the wireing from the clip to the plug on the pressure sensor, the black wire was getting rubbed just as it entered the sensor. I managed to get the clip off at the sensor (no small feat due to one of the brake lines, that was causing the rub, being so close to the plug at the sensor end that the plug wouldnt come all the way out.
At any rate, got that small section of wire out with the clip at one end (for the fender) and the plug at the other (for the sensor). It was rubbed, and a little flat on one side, but I dont think it was shorting. Put it all back (after taping and armoring the part that rubbed with a short piece of heavey wire casing).
Put it all back together, no good, still getting "Service Active Handling" and C1296 H C.
I didnt test any signals along the wires (mainly because I'm clueless about that :)) but Im fairly sure that section is as it should be.

This mean the sensor is bad?

Any way I can test it? Is it hard to remove? Expensive to replace?

Just to test that the system was in fact not working, I did a little spirited driving the other day (with the Active Handling not working), boy, thats a humbling experience ;-) Aparently, I am not as proficient as the active handling helped me think I was :) I gotta get this fixed.

Also, if you get a minute, what is the other error I am getting

NETWORK CODES:
U1064 - Loss of Communications with DIM

Whats a DIM? Any idea why it may not be communicating?

Thanks again.
 
HI there,
DIM is for a Cadillac, dash integration module.
u1064 in a Corvette is actually the Body control module and can be disregarded as long as it is a history code.
As for the sensor, most likely that is the cause, but since you cannot see a datalist, you are taking a slight chance.
The sensor is part of the valve assembly and is NOT serviced separately.
Allthebest, c4c5
 
So if Im reading this right, the sensor that is probably bad is labled (2) in the diagram you posted, and if it is bad I will need to replace the component it is sticking out of (the silver box with six break lines coming out of it, the EBTCM?) ...or....I dont get Active Handling anymore? Because that looks.........expensive :-0 (and I hope this isnt it ==> CONTROL MODULE, Corvette, All 2001 $1,053.58 list $790.19 price)
If its bad, its bad...but I'd like to make sure that is the problem before I have it replaced. You mentioned "not having the datalist" is that something that can definitively diagnose this? Can I have it done with equipment at the dealers?
And thanks about the other error (1064).
 
HI there,
No, that is the VALVE that will need replacement, NOT the EBTCM.
The valve is much more expensive, and that is the reason why it needs to be diagnosed accurately.
Allthebest, :bang
 
Alrighty then, this is the plan:
I need to locate a competent dealer/service department near me. I'm in the bottom of NY state (near Danbury Connecticut) if anyone knows of one here that can be trusted, I'd appreciate a reference.
I'm going to have them dignose and estimate what is going on (hopefully that will only set me back an hour or two of shop time).
Then I'll go back to the place I bought the car, nice guy, only vetts and doing it a long time. The day I picked up the car from my guy, the error was on the display, we discussed it then and he said it would go away and if it didnt he would do whatever needed to be done to take care of it. It did in fact go away after a hundred miles or so, but has been back intermittently (you can see above for what I've done to track this down).
At any rate, I feel a little funny bringing it back to him because I have had the car about a year (5000 miles), but I don't think I'm out of line. We have discussed it all along, and it won't go away this time.
What do you think? I have any business asking him to cover some...most of whatever needs to be done to get my Active Handling back?
 
Hm, well, sorry I wasnt a little bit closer. Derby is a bit of a drive.
As for the rest, I do not know of anyone in the area.
Danbury Chevrolet is supposed to be good, but I cannot talk from personal experience, only idle chat.
Allthebest, c4c5
 
I don't know, if you're reasonable (rate wise) Derby doesn't look far to me :) Even if it was just for a definitive diagnosis. Small problem, I would probably like to just have it fixed (tired of messing with this over the last year), if it was found to be a big problem, I probably would have to discuss it with the place I bought the car. I still feel he owns some of this problem.

Leaves are already changing :); nice driving weather.....how do you take your coffee ? :)
 
HI there,
Regular on the coffee:)
1 hour to effectively diagnose your concern maximum, if it takes less time, you are charged less. $85 an hour. Please also note if you have an extended warranty.
PM if you would like to have me look at it.
Allthebest, c4c5
 
You da man :)
Ill PM with arrangements, thanks.

Sorry, left out of PM : Nope, no extended warranty.
 

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