Drive Shaft Removal

[Bob Chadwick]

I backed the car up on the ramps last week with the plan to pull the drive shaft, have the U-joints replaced, balance the shaft and replace the front differential carrier.

I got under the car this morning and the first thing I noticed is that the wheels have to be off the ground so that I can rotate the shaft in neutral and get to all four bolts so this means I'll have to get it off the ramps and on to jack stands.

Everything I've read says after these four bolts are replaced that I simply need to pull the shaft to the side and slide it back. For the life of me, I can't visualize there being enough space to do it.

Anybody have any pointers?

Is this going to turn into one of these PIA jobs that I should take to the shop and let someone with a lift do?

Bob

 

[sac001]

Bob,

I just did this a few weeks ago, and it's pretty straightforward. You need to disconnect the driveshaft at the front (between the splined shaft & the actual drive shaft) and rear (at the differential) U-joints, and remove the hardware. Then slide the splined shaft into the transmission (it will probably move 2 -3 inches forward), lower the front half of the driveshaft, then pull the driveshaft forward & down.

I can tell you that the driveshaft will not come out if you don't remove the forward U-joint. As you suspect, there isn't enough room.

I neglected to take pictures when I did mine, but it was pretty easy. Now getting the U-joints out, that was another story... (if possible, bring it to a shop an have it done.)

Good luck,
Steve

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Thanks guys. My problem was that I was looking at the back half trying to find some way to move it rearward, allowing the splined shaft to pull out of the transmission rather than the other way round. I thought I remembered doing it that way on the last drive shaft I did 25 years ago.

Steve, definitely talking it to a shop to have the U-joints replaced and the drive shaft balanced.

Bob

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Got the shaft out. 4 bolts in the front, 4 in the back. I took degreaser to it and Metal Ready. POR15 and a gray top coat later this week. After that it is off to Doraville Driveline to have new U-joints and balancing.

While there was no rust coming out of the joints like some of the stories others have posted, you could actually feel the U-joints catching as you rotated them. While I'm no expert that didn't seem right.

While I'm under there, I plan to replace the front differential bushing. Is there any reason why I shouldn't remove the brackedthat mounts to the differential? I'll then hit all of that with POR15 as well.

Bob

 

[Dave L.]

Thanks for the updates Bob. I'm planning the drive shaft balance and u-joint deal this winter. I almost started this several weeks ago but didn't want to lose any valuable driving time by having the car on jack stands for 2 or more weekends. BTW.. hows the bushing in the tail shaft of your trans?


Dave

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Dave,

I don't know. Is this something that should be changed out now?

I read you needed a special socket to remove the bolts holding the U-joints but mine just took a standard 7/16's.

Boy I wish I had a lift.

Bob

 

[Dave L.]

Yes a lift would be nice I agree. I'm sure my next garage will have one. On your automatic you should be able to remove the tail housing from the tranny without having to remove the trans from the car I believe. I've got some play in the tail shaft bushing on my 4 speed,but I think I have to remove the trans to get my tail housing off. Anyway,while you have the drive shaft down it would be a good time to replace the tail seal and bushing in your trans. You'll have to put a support under the trans before removing the tranny mount so you can remove the tail housing....something to think about while your down there. You now how it goes working on these cars Bob..one thing leads to another.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Thanks Dave. I took a look at my AIM this morning and didn't find the tail shaft bushing. I did a search here and get the impression it sits between the rear of the transmission and the cross member and that you need to support the trans with a block of wood and floor jack, remove the cross memeber, replace the bushing and reinstall. Is that correct?

As to the seal, it appears to pry out and then a new one presses in. Is that correct as well? Also, it is not leaking now and wonder whether I should replace it. I bet I can make it leak with the replacement. :s

Bob

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Drive shaft went in today as well as the front differential bushing and the rear trans bushing. Piece of cake.

I did not replace the rear trans seal as it was not leaking.

Didn't even take the car off the jack stands. Went on to the next project and the rear spring came out as did the rear tire holder. I'm off to the POR 51 store for paint to cover all of that frame that became exposed when these two items came off.

 

[Dave L.]

nice work Bob!

Thanks for the update Bob. I wish we were neighbors,with your enthusiasm and help I might be able to get similar projects done to my car that you have done.

Dave

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Re: nice work Bob!

Thanks for the update Bob. I wish we were neighbors,with your enthusiasm and help I might be able to get similar projects done to my car that you have done.

Dave

And vice versa Dave. I paid to have my intake done and am just about to pay to have a cam added. I go He$$ bent on screws and rough fixes but get a little concerned about precision repairs.

Bob

 

[DDLS3]

Bob

As you may have guessed there are 3 different versions of u-joint strap bolts that I know of. I have the one you reffered to as requiring a special socket. It is a 1/4" 12 point socket, 1/4" drive, not really special, but you can only find it at Sears or through a tool dealer like Mac or Snap-on.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

I recall looking for the 12 point socket at Lowes but couldn't find one that small. Then I was pleasantly surprised to find out that it came out with what I already had. That almost never happens.