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Drivetrain Strength

  • Thread starter Thread starter Michael79
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Michael79

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A question from across the pond.
While blasting around our quaint country roads I noticed my oil pressure drop from 55psi down to 35. Given that I was in 4th gear at 5000r.p.m I backed off immediately and nursed the car home. Subsequent firing shows an idle pressure of 25 psi and a death rattle of a probable spun bearing.
The engine is (was) an L48 and had less power than the Iraqi Republican Guard ( and not as fast going backwards) so apart from a huge pain in the wallet the loss of the engine isn't catastrophic.
I've been offered a new 383 with all the goodies, dyno'd @450 bhp and 480 lbft. If I do this swap into my 4 speed manual, standard clutch transmission when I hit the loud peddle will I
1. Put down two looong strips of Goodyears finest..or
2. Put down 200 lbs of GM's finest gearbox and differential all over Her Majesty's highway?
Assuming the answer is 2, what's the solution, and remember I'm in England where everything is 3 times the price you lucky guys pay.
 
The driveline was designed back in the days when Vettes had some muscle. You're at the upper limit of the range. But you should be OK. Probably the number 1 risk is a fried clutch...which isn't the worst thing that could happen.
 
That sounds encouraging.
Would you recommend a clutch upgrade ?
 
Yes, but if you burn up the one that's in there it won't be the end of the world...

Clutch longevity has a lot to do with driver technique. I've never had to replace a clutch in any vehicle I've owned, yet I hear of others who are frequently replacing them. Draw your own conclusions.
 
page62, what kind of job would it be to change the clutch? What would be needed to do? How much would you have to rip out of the Vette? Is the clutch hard to get at and replace?
 
Let me put it to your this way TR:
Be nice to your clutch!

It's a job you only do when you must....
 
:D I am good with the clutch. I don't ride it, depress only when necessary all the way down. I think I'm good. I love the car too much to hurt her more than necessary. Thanks!! :)

TR
 
TR,
you would have remove the tranny and pull the pressure plate and flywheel off of the crankshaft. if your lucky you can resurface the flywheel and replace the clutch disc and pressure plate. it is always a great idea to change the throw-out bearing since it's apart anyway.

Micheal,
i would inspect your u-joints, and maybe upgrade to the best DanaSpicer has to offer. greasable is recomended by every hardcore research article i have read. read some 4x4 magazines about u-joints, they are much harder on them than you ever will be. do all the rear end checks like spindle and yoke play and especially bushings!! your stock camber rods will probably suffer from "can't hold that adjustment" disease. a set of smart struts from Vette Brakes and Products or Drag Vette will make your life better and save your tires. other than that, you should have a next to bullit proof drivetrain. M-21 & M-22 manual trannies can take some serious punishment, they came standard on the L-88's and ZL-1's. those cars were making far more power than you are and they held together just fine. bottom line, make sure your stock stuff is in good operating condition, and you will be just fine, Brian
 
Okay, thanks for the procedure, AKRAY4PLAY. That does sound like a tough job to do. :(

TR
 
One more thing lol

Replace the pilot bearing as well. It is located in the end of the cankshaft in the hole. Just something else to do while you are there like the throwout bearing. Do replace those items. and check and make sure the clutch fork fits well and is not too worn out and the same will go for the other clutch components. That way when you do put it all back together which is a chore lol. You know it will be right. :)
 
Thanks for the info Brian and Page62. I replaced much of the back end such as uj's and bearings last winter so it should be in good shape.
I'm pulling the engine next week so I'll see how good the clutch is too, Michael.
 

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