Electrical Issues

[Vetsvette2002]

Nick,
On my 67, I have about a 0.005 amp draw. When the clock energizes it climbs to 0.04 for about 2-3 seconds then drops off to the 0.005 level.
It sounds like you have the bad alternator/regulator and a short in the wiring too somewhere.

 

[ND67]

No success guys. I just got the Alternator completely rebuilt and tested as well as a brand new Delco voltage regulator. I just tested and I'm back to getting a 15.5amp draw. This is with all fuses out. Ugg.

One thing, as I was installing the alternator, the red wire touched the outside metal surface of the alternator and the amp meter jumped to up to over 12amps. Could I have a short in the alternator wiring?

Back to the drawing board.

 

[Vetsvette2002]

Nick,
You broke rule number 1 in replacing the alternator, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST
It looks like the finger is pointing to the wiring. Read my above post on how to check it out.
Don

 

[Charlie '64]

Nick, chased a continuous draw around my '64 for about six months while replacing the volt reg, alternator, starter, eng wire harness. Also did most of the things suggested here. Probably won't be your problem, but check the plugs in the firewall where the harness plugs into the back of the fuse box. I eventually found one of the prongs bent just enough that when I plugged in the wire harness it bent the plug across and touched one of the other plugs. I had the same symptons you describe, good luck!! Electrical problems with these old cars make everything else seem easy!! Hang in there.

 

[ND67]

Okay, I think I found something. The Horn Relay has two screws on the front. The one on the left has 3 wires and the one on the right has two. As Don suggested I unplugged both harness plugs from the firewall.

At the Horn Relay, I unscrewed the 3 wires attached to the left screw. The draw dropped to below 1. I unscrewed both wires and the draw dropped to .2.

Before I get too fired up that the Horn Relay is our problem, is there a way to check it or do I simply replace it and see what happens. It's not the cost, I just can't get over to the auto parts store until Saturday. Can I use my VOM and check this thing?

If not, I'll just replace and see what happens.

Charlie, I just ran down to look at the prongs as you suggested. They are all straight. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Nick

 

[ND67]

It wasn't the Horn Relay. I installed new one today and still have a 15.5amp draw. I'm leaning towards a new engine wire harness.

The only other thing is the starter. Is there a way to check my starter with my DVM to see if it's drawing amps? I tried by placing the positive lead from my DMV to the bolt that the pos battery cable goes to (at starter) and touched the neg. lead from my DVM to the neg. batt cable (disconnected from battery).

Is this correct?

Thanks,

Nick

 

[Vetsvette2002]

Nick,
I would have gone between the large battery post ont he starter and the starter case. If your starter operates correctly, It isn't the culprit.
Earlier in a post you said you still had a draw with the engine harness disconnected, this is where I think your short is. But you must verify this by checking each wire for a short to ground and between each other.
One can throw a lot of money (parts & time) at a problem befroe it is solved. I don't charge myself for time and I enjoy solving puzzles.
Don

 

[ND67]

Don – Thanks.

I ordered a new engine wiring harness from Lectric (at your suggestion) yesterday. While I’m not absolutely sure this is the problem (with my luck probably not) but there are several plugs that appear to be worn. Also, the harness plug at the firewall had some green residue (water I assume) that I brushed away but who knows what harm that may have caused. I figured that for $130 it was a good idea to replace anyway. At this rate, I’ll have replaced every major component under the hood before we find the 15amp draw!

I do want to check the starter also, just to make sure. I’ll use your method and measure for draw between the positive post on the starter and the metal starter case. I assume that I should use the positive DVM lead against the positive starter post and the negative DVM lead to the metal starter case. If not please advise

As an aside, I sold my frame off restored GTO earlier this summer because I really wanted a mid 60’s Vette. After the goat I decided that I didn’t want another restored car because I was always afraid to drive it for fear a paint chip or sudden rain storm. Now, every night my wife walks past me in the garage, as I’m circling the engine with a DVM and says “the GTO never had these problems.”

Thanks again… we’ll find it yet.

Nick

 

[Vetsvette2002]

Nick,

When it comes to using a DVM to measure resistance, it makes no difference which probe goes where. Reisitance is not directional.

If you are using it to measure voltage, the probes tell you the direction of flow. Example: take a 9 volt transistor radio battery and put the red or posistive probe to the positivet post on the battery and the black (negative) on the other post. You should see about +9 volts dc. Swith the probes to the opposite battery positions and the display should read -9 volts.

Measuring Amps is also no-directional, although some meters have built in to the DVM a safety circuit that may or may not read accurately if not connected according to the manufaturers instructions. A "clip over the wire" type amp meter will have a directional arrow for installation.

I have used a Lectric Limited harness on others cars with great success that have achieved Top Flight or Bloomington awards. Take your time and go around the engine, one connector at a time. Don't take one harness off and then try to replace it with the new one.

Don

 

[ND67]

Guys,

I wanted to follow-up to let you know my progress in tracking the electrical draw on my 65.

I had the alternator rebuilt, then replaced the wiring harness and still had a 15amp draw. Last week I had the starter rebuilt and now have a 1.7amp draw.

As I removed the starter I noticed that the solenoid posts were very loose and appeared to have water corrosion, perhaps that was the cause.

I am in the process of tracking the 1.7amp draw now; I appreciate all of the help and suggestions you folks gave throughout this process.

Thanks,

Nick

 

[Subfixer]

Nick, Where are you in CT? Maybe I can drop by and see if I can give you a little assistance. I'm pretty good with electrics. Send me an email with the details and I'll see what I can work out.

 

[Vetsvette2002]

Nick,
Did you ever get the electrical gremlins sorted out? If so, what was it or them.
Don