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Emmisions Removal

rebart

Member
Joined
May 19, 2006
Messages
11
Location
Wisconsin
Corvette
1981-Black
What all do I need to do to remove all the emmisions crap from my 81' Vette ?
 
You're gonna need a new distributor ... because your 81's ignition advance is adjusted via ECM ('puter) ... you'll need one with both vacuum & mechanical advance. I have FS two brand new USA-made HEI w/both V&M advances ... EMAIL me thru this forum if serious ... prefer NO pm.
 
I believe it also has the electronic Q-Jet, controlled by the ECM; will also need a new conventional Q-Jet.

:beer
 
rebart said:
What all do I need to do to remove all the emmisions crap from my 81' Vette ?
I removed all my emission parts (crap) (Air pump,all related valves,EGR...etc) and didn't need a new distributor or carb. The car runs fine. Just don't remove the coolant temp sensor (located in the intake manifold),the oxygen sensor (located in the LH exhaust manifold),or the MAP sensor (located on the firewall). Removal of the emission items will not interfere with the computer. The main reason I removed them,was to 'clean-up' the engine compartment to make it easier to work on.
 
rebart said:
What all do I need to do to remove all the emmisions crap from my 81' Vette ?

Save it in a good place, though. If you ever change your mind about it, then it will cost you dearly to get it all back in (like getting that ever so wanted job promotion in California, and have to get the vehicle back to legal standards.

These components are becoming extinct -Especially for the L81.

I am in need for a smog pump bracket, so let me know if you want to part with it.

GerryLP:cool
 
"I am in need for a smog pump bracket, so let me know if you want to part with it."


I've got a bracket (GM n.o.s. #14037668) in the original packaging...
$20. + UPS shipping...
p.m. if interested.
 
"I am in need for a smog pump bracket, so let me know if you want to part with it."


I've got a bracket (GM n.o.s. #14037668) in the original packaging...
$20. + UPS shipping...
p.m. if interested.

You got p.m.'ed

GerryLP:cool
 
You're gonna need a new distributor ... because your 81's ignition advance is adjusted via ECM ('puter) ... you'll need one with both vacuum & mechanical advance. I have FS two brand new USA-made HEI w/both V&M advances ... EMAIL me thru this forum if serious ... prefer NO pm.


I too removed everything but the O2 and MAP sensor. I added headers and tapped a socket for an O2 sensor, stayed with the stock Q-Jet and the car runs stronger than ever. If you want to change out everything that's fine too; it's just not necessary.

.......nut
 
If I remove the air pump, how do I figure what new belt size I need ??
 
Your air pump should have it's own seperate belt running off of the water pump. . .
 
I too removed everything but the O2 and MAP sensor. I added headers and tapped a socket for an O2 sensor, stayed with the stock Q-Jet and the car runs stronger than ever. If you want to change out everything that's fine too; it's just not necessary.

.......nut

Nut, do you have any pictures. I am in the process of removing the equipment and am curious as to which vacuum hoses and fittings you removed. Did you just plug the vacuum lines on the carb?
 
Nut, do you have any pictures. I am in the process of removing the equipment and am curious as to which vacuum hoses and fittings you removed. Did you just plug the vacuum lines on the carb?

Same deal here, what is the best way to plug the open vacum ports on the carb?
 
I even ended up eliminating my choke to get my 81 to finally run right. I was told it has to warm up awhile in cold weather but can run without. I eliminated about 20 hoses (mostly emission related) around carb, had an array of different plugs from my mechanic to simplify my carb. Adjusted timing and now life is good. Now I have a buzzer and light that come and go with acceleration/deceleration to deal with, but running like a race car. Already had true duals, breather assembly simplified. In Fact my 81 has never ran this good.
 
I got rid of all that junk on mine too... then decided to get a little more serious,I took a 15 second car and with about 2k more in parts now have a high 12 second ride. And it helps to have friends in the parts biz!
 
Here is a vac diagram detailing what hoses to delete for emissions stuff.
VacHosedelete.jpg

Removing the EGR will require fabing a plate to cover the hole in the manifold.
You will need plugs for the exhaust manifold pipe from the air pump unless you replace the manifolds.
You will need 2 new bolts for the waterpump because the existing bolts go thru the air pump bracket and are to long
I don't recommend deleting the evap canister, it does some good and does not suckup HP as long as the hoses do not leak
If you go with a custom aftermarket air cleaner you can remove the hoses related to the stock unit, but be aware that the stock unit pulls cool air from in front of the radiator. Cooler air is more dense and will make it run better.
If you remove all the ductwork related to the cold air system be sure and put in a bigger seal from the top of the radiator to the hood. If you don't the air will go over the rad instead of thru it and you WILL have heat issues.
Replacing the stock fan, fan clutch and radiator shroud with a Dual Spall type system of electric fans will free up so much realestate you won't believe it.
 
Same deal here, what is the best way to plug the open vacum ports on the carb?
They make vacuum caps/plugs that can typically found at your local auto parts store. They come in a variety of sizes. My ride found quite a bit of extra horseys after removing all of the emission equipment.
 

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