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Engine Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter MajiKarpet
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MajiKarpet

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There is a lot of great posts and information on this site. I am really excited to find this knowledge base.

The simple solution to increasing the L81 HP seems to be swapping the whole thing. However I would like to retain as much stock as possible. I was thinking about a cam swap and bolting a TPI system in place of the Quadrajet. I am not looking for blazing fast 1/4 times but, this current engine, calculated HP of 109, is a little embarassing to drive.

I was thinking about the Comp Xtreme 262 (218/224 dur, 462/469 lift), and the TPI kit. My question is this, will that work with the existing HEI distributor, and also would it be better for me to purchase a TPI kit from a vendor i.e. http://www.affordable-fuel-injection.com/tuned-port-injection.htm or dig one out of the junk yard? If I do that what kind of problems will I face with the junk yard ECM?

Thanks for any advice.
 
The cam swap is an excellent idea. I wouldn't bother with TPI myself. I would get a good free flowing exhaust on there along with some better rear end gears. you have 2.87 rear end gears and something like 3.55's would make a good seat of the pants feeling difference.

:beer
 
Thanks for the advice, I hadn't thought of the gear ratios yet. The main reason for the TPI is I live in Phoenix, AZ and there are emission tests here. My AIR pump is shot and rather purchase a new HP robbing device I just as soon get rid of the whole mess and go for the TPI setup, but if it is going to be a bear I may have to simply get an AIR pump.
 
hey man
here i what is happening with my engine
IF you want 400 plus, you might as well get a new engine
but to simply up it to 300 is not too hard.
Remember those monsters in the 60's early 70's where
flywheel dyno'd not rwhp so yu have the 250hp engine.

The worst thing about the l81 is the compression
with 8.2 compression it hard to have any power from a 350.
I am adding heads, cam, exhaust, headers, intake, rearend of 3.55
64cc flowing heads, vortec and matching intake
This will change compression to 9.1-9.2
The quad jet is a great carb dont waste money on edlebroke and holley
add true dual exhaust, and random high flow cat/mufflers
And beef up that trans, dont know if you have a 350 or 4 speed
but the auto trans can be built for 400hp plus easily for 200-300 dollars
add a hard drag shift kit and those near gears you'll be planted in the seat.
A 280 comp cam 488 will bring the engine to life, I am also adding a new
timing chain due to ware and age.
This set up could have you close to an extra 100 hp.
 
Hey I live here in Phoenix, a little advise, If you have a 4 spd the comp 270 H will work fine as long as you go to a stage two hyperchip. If not the computer thinks something is wrong and the rpm will fluctuate and you will fail the emmissions testing. If you have an Auto I think your cam choice would be the best, but change that chip-Lopers probably has the chip in stock. Also get new exhaust, true duals with High flow cats and they will stagger in the old cats space. I went with flowmaster 40 series- too loud for some but I really like them-at idle people will stop you and let you know how good it sounds-
 
Help

I have a problem with my car, I started it but it turns to more than 30 revolutions per minute then which is cold in more the check engine ignites. Can you say to me what it is necessary to do.

Thank you in advance.
 
Biggest seat of the pants power increase I ever had was by fitting true duals 2 1/2". There wasn't a Cat in the system prior to fitting them (just a pipe in it's place), so the effect will be even better if you're removing the cat. At high rpms it felt a bit "strangled" & Dynomax ceramic coated Headers (1 5/8" - 3") sorted that out (O2 sensor mounted in reducer).
I also fitted a Crane 2040 CompuCam which woke it up a bit in the mid-high range, but it seemed to lose power off idle. Fitting a Hypertech thermomaster chip brought a lot of the low end grunt back. Whatever cam you decide on, it must have a good vacuum at idle, if not then the computer will start richening the mixture (as it'll think the engine is under load) as soon as you touch the throttle. This may cause it to bog & will definitely fail emmissions.
A free power increase is to advance the initial timing from the stock 6BTDC. Apparently you can go as high as 13BTDC but I went to 11BTDC for a safety margin. This simple adjustment really improved throttle response, especially off idle. Another throttle response improvement was gained by fitting a high output HEI coil & opening up the plug gaps by 5 thou.
I also fitted a Performer manifold, but can't really say if there was a difference (no doubt a dyno would tell the truth, it feels better, but dunno if there was extra power from it?).
1.52 roller tipped rockers probably gave a bit extra, again, it's hard to tell.
For gearing I fitted a 200-4r trans for the OD gear (BEST mod I EVER did, that OD is brilliant on the highway - now I can cruise with the "big boys" without the motor revving its heart out). The lower 1st gear ratio has improved off the line acceleration.
I've also fitted a 180 stat which was about the time that the TCC lockup inexplicably stopped working - maybe the computer didn't think the engine/trans was warm enough to lockup? Something to be aware of when fitting a lower temp stat. A 160stat tends to be a bit low for the computer & a few L81 owners haven't got on with them, but others have.
As mentioned, the CR & heads are the real plug in the system & I'm waiting for a set of AFR180's at the moment. They should really wake it up, even with the stock computer still controlling it. At the moment I don't think the cam is peforming as well as it could, simply coz the CR is a meagre 8.2:1 & the heads don't flow well. With good flowing heads & a CR somewhere above 9:1 I'm expecting the cam to start showing it's potential.
The E4ME performs well & also gives good economy, but they must be set up correctly. With Headers & running at around sea level, Headers casue the secondaries to run weak. Changing the stock CH rods to DA made a massive difference after the Headers were on, you can really feel it pulling. No mods were needed to the primaries as the computer controls the mixture automatically.
With no cat, Headers, duals (Monza "mufflers" - far from quiet), the cam & EGR/EFE removed, I put it through an exhaust sniffer test at it's last annual test (it's not a legal requirement, I was just interested). The hydrocarbon readings were very high, but after letting the motor warm up (as they should have done) another reading was taken. It was good, but I can't remember the figure. The CO reading was 0.14 (ppm?). Both readings impressed the testers as they've seen modern, small cars fitted with a cat & all the other smog stuff give worse readings on their 1st annual test (at the age of 3 years). The computer has to be doing something right to get readings as good as those!
I've definitely got more than the stock 190hp as I was behind a well cared for stock '80 as it left the lights at WOT. I went to WOT to keep up with it & had to let off real quick to avoid ploughing into the back of it!
I don't honestly think you'll get the full effects of FI as long as the stock smog heads are on & it's running the low stock CR. Change the heads, open up the exhaust, fit a better cam & you'll probably get a worthwhile increase from FI.
Cheers
 
I guess one of the biggest problems I've had is getting the stupid th350 to go into lock-up. On mine, you have to reach 200 degrees before the Reverend computer will telll it to go into lock-up. Its hard for me to get that hot in summer, and not at all in the winter...even w/a195 thermo.(yes, its been replaced)For other reasons, I switching to a 700R4, but B&M makes a converter lockup control which bypasses Irreverent Computer @ $160 and you can set it to the Speed you want for lockup. I hope to do like Nut did w/the straight wire on the 700R4 but may get the B&M gismo. jimbo
 
like2drive said:
I guess one of the biggest problems I've had is getting the stupid th350 to go into lock-up. On mine, you have to reach 200 degrees before the Reverend computer will telll it to go into lock-up. Its hard for me to get that hot in summer, and not at all in the winter...even w/a195 thermo.(yes, its been replaced)For other reasons, I switching to a 700R4, but B&M makes a converter lockup control which bypasses Irreverent Computer @ $160 and you can set it to the Speed you want for lockup. I hope to do like Nut did w/the straight wire on the 700R4 but may get the B&M gismo. jimbo
sounds like a bad speed sensor, computer, or converter. mine locks up at 45mph whether the engine is cold or hot
 
Huh? Yes, I read on one of the other threads last night that there is supposed to be a speed sensor behind the Speedometer. I went through my factory manual last night and did find a converter wire going towards that general area but that was it. When I replace the 85MPH w/ a 140mph, I'll investigate that futher. Otherwise, I have a new converter(less than 3000 miles) but do also currently still have the original IRReverend Computer. I believe you are right. None of the trans "rebuilders" in our area I've talked with have ever mentioned this. Sometimes, its like we're talking about a '49 Peterbuilt!Thanks 81Corvette, Jim
 

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