EPC - Ready to Install

[Hijinx]

That's a good idea, Chris. Put hard line where its easy, and use the rubber stuff where I have to thread and bend it through stuff. I see the area you are talking about in the rear frame area. One thing I noticed, may not be a big deal, but the new Holly pump does not have a return line connection. Just an inbound and outbound connection. So, it looks like one line to the rear will be enough. Any thoughts here? Am I missing something? Found more missing brake line tie downs. Looks like they took all the old ones off, and didnt put one back in place.

 

[69MyWay]

You can take a hack saw or line cutting tool. Cut the lines on the frame in front of the right rear tire, then on top of the frame in the wheel well.

You can then rip, yank, pull, cuss, scream, yell, and pull them down out of the right rear dog leg area. Discard them. If you only want to run one main line (which is entirely up to you), then it is easy to use a clothes hanger opened up and fish it down and through the frame channel. You can then tape/hook it to the rubber line and pull it back through.

Pargon, mid america, ecklers, etc. sell the new frame hose clamps for both the brake lines and fuel lines.

You charcol canister should have a vent tube running up the driver side frame rail...right?

You can also go to your local NAPA and pick up the rubber insulated hose clamp hangers for $5 a bag or so and set everything up. Summit, Jeggs, etc also sell them with the rubber insulator. The factory ones are just metal.

 

[Hijinx]

Your right on track with what I was thinking. Just cut and rip them out. I guess I will just cap the return line. Why dont performance pumps have that return line? Never have understood that one.

Hope to stop at Sears tonight and pickup a bending and flairing tool set. I imagine Sears is as good a place as any to get them.

Would it be better for me to use stainless tubing or Aluminum? I know the Aluminum will be easier to work with.

Did you just hose clamp your soft line to your hard line, or did you go the whole nine yards and put AN type fittings on everything? I know it cost a lot, but they sure are a lot easier to mess with later in my mind.

What do you think?

 

[69MyWay]

I started out with the a/n lines on everything, but when I switched back, I went with the barbed ends (you can flare them with that kit from sears). and clamps.

I would used stainless line if at all possible. The aluminum is thin, too easy to kink/crimp and could crack with regular vibrations etc.

 

[Hijinx]

Great, thanks for the input Chris, very valuable. I'll stick with stainless, its only $30 for 20 feet of it from Summit. I've used the clamps you were talking about with good luck, and they are cheap. Man, my old lines are so rusted, I am not sure why they have not busted yet!

Hey, what were your thoughts on the return line. Isnt that to keep it from vacuum locking? Is this not a problem with newer mechanical pumps?

 

[69MyWay]

Since you are running a high performance mechanical pump, I would suggest installing a pressure regulator after the pump with a return feed. You will set your pressure at like 5 lbs, then if you are stuck in heavy traffic, the extra pressure will bleed back to the tank instead of blowing out the needle and seat.

You don't have to do it, but it won't hurt, plus you already have a return line set up in your tank.

 

[Hijinx]

Thanks, Chris, I always wanted to know how that worked. I appreciate the info.

 

[Hijinx]

Wow, those AN flairing tools are EXPENSIVE! $140 for the kit. I can get an Earl's beading tool for $22. I'm thinkin that, some aluminum line and some high quality flexable line and I'm out!

Any suggestions on that Fuel Pressure Regulator. Holly puts one out cheap for $25. But, I cant tell if it has a return fitting. What should I look for in a regulator? I know some are really expensive (over $100).