front clip found for my '59!

[CHEV66JB]

I am happy to say that I was able to acquire a C1 front clip for my '59 project at Corvette Carlisle, and only paid $250 for it! It is basically just the outer 'glass and the inner fenders, but I couldn't go wrong at that price!! Has anyone had experience with working on front end cracks/damage on a C1 car? If so, please contact me- I'd love to hear what you had to do and see any pics you may have. This one will need work, but it was still $800 cheaper than a repro.

CHEV66JB

PS if anyone has been taping the episodes on the DIY channel, PLEASE contact me. I'm trying desperately to get a hold of these episodes on video. Thanks!

 

[Tom Bryant]

Mine rolled off the trailer about 20 years ago. Does that count? Got pictures of the cracks?

 

[CHEV66JB]

Re:

Hi Tom!

Yours fell off the trailer??? That sounds nasty! And yep, I have pics of the cracks- Do you want them here, or emailed to you directly? The clip is original, so it has quite a few bangs in it..


CHEV66JB

 

[Tom Bryant]

Post them here for all to enjoy. :L Might get better opinions than just mine.

Tom

 

[CHEV66JB]

Re:

Here's one:

 

[CHEV66JB]

Re:

And next:

 

[CHEV66JB]

Re:

My final:

 

[CHEV66JB]

Re:

oops, try again:

 

[CHEV66JB]

Re:

I can post more regarding some issues on the inside of the structure, but that should be enough to get some initial input.

CHEV66JB

 

[Tom Bryant]

If that's the worst of it I think you got a good deal. How's the lower valance?

 

[CHEV66JB]

Re:

There's one crack under the driver parking light, but that's pretty much it- There are a few hairlines coming off of the wheelwell areas, but nothing like the pics I already posted..

CHEV66JB

 

[Tom Bryant]

Re: pass_side_bondo.jpge:

There should be a bonding strip behind this area. This is probably just busted out seam filler from a hard flex at some time. If the bonding strip is intact and not busted loose just grind it out and repair with new seam filler. If the bonding strip is loose I'd remove it completely and clean up the area and strip and rebond it into place.

I'd also finish sanding off all the paint and primer and check for hidden damage.

 

[CHEV66JB]

Re:

Thanks for the info! I will definitely be going over this clip with a fine tooth comb. Was yours all together when you bought it? Did you pick it up from a friend or total stranger? Just curious-


Thanks,

CHEV66JB

 

[Tom Bryant]

re: pass_side_lights.jpg

This one on the inside of the lights looks to be in the bonding strip area too. Might be able to grind out the filler and rebond the bonding strip then new filler.

 

[CHEV66JB]

Re:

I'll be checking for those bonding strips first thing in the AM- As far as I remember, all of the original strips were in tact. The guy had totally stripped the car apart, and also had the rolling chassis there. I just forgot to bring my other wallet that had the 5 grand in it... 8^[

 

[Tom Bryant]

re: drivers_side_lights.jpg

This one's different. This is a crack through fiberglass. I just did a bunch of these on my valance a couple months ago but haven't glassed them in yet. Everybody has their own favorite tools but here is what I do.

Go down to the end of the crack and drill a hole to terminate the crack. I use about a 1/4" bit. This will take stress off the crack so it won't keep cracking as you are cleaning up the break. Now you need to go down through the crack and clean out all of the broken glass and strands. In some areas I use a thin drywall saw. It's agressive and easy to turn. Some use a sawsall but I like more control (plus I don't have one). I also use a straight cut 1/4" router bit on the drill. Just go along the crack and clean out all the loose and broken glass. This also relieves the stress between the 2 adjacent panels and they will line up again with little trouble.

Then use a grinder with a 4 or 6 in disc and grind off the rear of the panel cleaning up the area back several inches from the crack. On the front side grind back from the crack several inches too but bevel it towards the crack. Along the crack edge should be very thin and gradually getting thicker as you go away from
the crack. If the panels won't hold alignment by themselves and you can't feel any broken glass holding them out of alignment you can put a piece of steel strap across the face of the crack on the outside (paint side) of the panel to hold things straight. Attach it with a couple wood or metal screws.

Mix your resin and saturate a few pieces of mat cut wide enough to cover the cleaned area in back and apply to the rear of the panel. Use a small roller from Ecklers or a boat store to roll out the excess resin and air bubbles. Allow to cure. If you want to hurry things along use a heat lamp to get the area hot for 10 minutes or so and remove the lamp. When it cools it will be hard.

Now go to the front side and remove the strap if used. Then regrind the area to scuff any new resin that is visible on the front. Now cut several layers of mat for the front side. Start with narrower pieces for the center of the crack and graduate to wider ones as you fill in the v'd out area you ground. Overlap by about 3 inches or so and roll out the excess resin and air bubbles. Air cure or use heat if you desire.

Sanding and some filler to fill the imperfections and you are repaired.

Remember this. Don't be affraid to get agressive with your grinder as a wide repair is stronger than a narrow one and a rough surface will bond better than a smooth one.

You should also invest in one of the excellent books on fiberglass repair to familiarize yourself with the process before you start to assemble your pieces into a complete body. Make sure your frame is straight and you have proper new body mounts and shims so everything will fit and operate right when the resin cures.

Tom

 

[CHEV66JB]

Re:

Tom,

Thank you so much for taking the time to type all of the steps in such excellent detail. It is greatly appreciated!

CHEV66JB

 

[Tom Bryant]

No problem. You are going to be a glass expert by the time you get this project in primer but it will be a lot of fun. A couple other hints are to buildup the outside a layer or so higher than the surrounding area and then sand or grind and sand it down to contour. That way you have maximum strength. Then if you have any low areas deeper than about 1/8" scuff them out and add more mat to fill them. This is better than thick body filler.

After you are done with the glass repair you can take a paint brush and coat the area with a little resin to seal in any errant strands of glass. It is not necessary to gell coat the whole panel. GM didn't when they made it origionally. A resin coat will do the job where you need it and it's cheap and easy. Then scuff the resin with 220 paper and apply a skin coat of body filler to fill and straighten out any uneveness.

Save plastic margerine containers to mix resin in. After it hardens you can flex the container and the old resin will break out. Or throw them away if you have plenty. Don't mix too much resin at a time. Once it starts to gel in the container it is no longer usable. Get a bag of popcicle sticks from a craft store to use for mixing sticks. Cheap and disposable. Also buy a bunch of the cheapest 1 1/2" brushes you can find at the home improvement store. Just throw them away after you're done each day. Save some cardboard, like refrigerator boxes to lay under your work area. Any resin that drips on the concrete is perminent.

You will be suprised at how fast this work actually goes once you get the hang of it. Actually you can do the repairs nnede on that clipright now while it is off of the car. You can flip it upside down or whatever you need to make life easy. Just support it so it isn't flexed and go to it.

Tom

 

[CHEV66JB]

Re:

That's how I thought would be the way to go, was to strip the clips and do the bodywork now while they're just sitting in the shed- That way, when I track down a frame, that part of the job will be mostly out of the way- I also have to get to work on the 283 I have set aside for it. It's not a numbers matching motor, but I thought it would be fun to at least drive the car around while looking for all that stuff.. After all, these cars were built to be on the road.... Right? 8^]

You are a wealth of knowledge, Tom..


CHEV66JB

 

[Tom Bryant]

Re: Re:

Thanks for the info! I will definitely be going over this clip with a fine tooth comb. Was yours all together when you bought it? Did you pick it up from a friend or total stranger? Just curious-


Thanks,

CHEV66JB

I bought my '59 from a newspaper ad in Aug of '69. It had a new '68 Safari Yellow paint job that hid a multitude of sins. Poor car had a rough first 10 years.

Tom