Since you mention dash I'll assume that yours is a fuse box on the rt side...
in which case, thats challenging.
Remove all the trim panels, side, below, bread box, and dash pad.
Get to the fuse box mounting screws (if you can) and remove and gently pull the box in and up toward the glass...depending on how much wire harness you have available. More slack can be had by releasing harness clamps from below...
SOME hot wires jump across from one thing to the next, so its easy to get confused in the backside of the panel. The term is called "bar-side" but this is done all wire...
Use your meter or a good test lite to find the last power and trace it, DO NOT assume that because it is dead at the fuse in question that it IS the hot lead to that fuse location ! The FSM will help you decifer the color codes..orange hot always, red hot in run etc..(may be reversed, my FSM is not handy!)
The wires can be bad or seperated (lots of splices) and they come out of the crimp-on ends.
I lost a tail lite fuse from the fuse being loose and the arcing melted the holder slot away...so the wires had to be relocated to an inline fuse that I dropped down and hid under the lower trim panel.
Its a cake job if the windshield were out...but you will have to work in tight areas and NOT tug or pull on the wire anymore that absolutely necessary. It fragile.
Remember the fusable links under the battery that are source for most of the interior electrical. Oh yes, your haynes manual....throw that away before you get in trouble. :ugh Its absolutely useless in ANY type of technical repair. No specifics, no specs, too generic. If you want to ever do a vette repair RIGHT...you are going to have to spend $100 on a REAL FSM..used, CD or otherwise. There is NO shortcut to working on a complicated car without the designers specifications and directions.The drawings alone would get you thru this repair...
good luck!
