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Gonna Replace The Aluminum Insert In The Glove Box Door.....I Got Questions..???

Viet Nam Vett

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2004
Messages
2,410
Location
Egg Harbor Township NJ
Corvette
65 BB 502 Cp /MSD ATOMIC EFI/ 2009-HUMMER H2
I ordered a new insert for the glove box door... I really needed a new latch catch for the lock meck after the original broke. So I ordered it and then saw the insert ..so I ordered that also.

I did a search looking for info on the How too's of replacing the insert but nothing came up on the search engine here on the forum.

So.. I notice there are rivits on the back of the door and I assume I have to drill them out.

After they are drilled out ...what will explode in my hands here..?? Does the door come apart easy...and can I swap this insert out without damaging the fresh paint I just put on the front trim??. I didn't have plans at the time I painted the front black trim to replace the insert. :D ..But Since I'm Oppisite George.. I'll do it now.

Anyone have any pic's of one apart?? And... What steps should I follow doing this deal..

Thanks..:beer
 
This is definitely not a pleasant task. I know. I've done it. I'll be back with info.

Meanwhile, VNV, just stand there and look intelligent. :rotfl
 
Yes, just drill out the rivet heads VERY carefully and the inside cover lifts straight up. Just lay the front of your door on a shop rag.

There are resto kits to re-install the cover but it is a HUGE waste of time. I did that on the '66 and swore NEVER AGAIN. For the roadster, I drilled out the rivets, as above and then I bought a bunch of the same size pop rivets from the big Orange Box. I set the rivets into a piece of scrap and ground off the back....leaving perfect pop rivet heads which I epoxied onto the back of the cover.

Sorry, got ahead of myself...I epoxied the back cover onto the door first then glued the rivet heads on. Shot it with black paint and it MIGHT even pass John's discriminating eye.

If you want to do this before Cruisefest, you know I'm on vacation so send me mail.


As far as the insert is concerned, I think that's held on also with peined heads. I ground them off and just re-set mine in epoxy. Don't forget that you need the logo on the insert, I just ground the old peined heads off, left enough of the studs to re-set in the holes and, yes, I again epoxied it into place.

Ain't nuthin coming off those doors. At least 5 years now for each.
 
67HEAVEN said:
This is definitely not a pleasant task. I know. I've done it. I'll be back with info.

Meanwhile, VNV, just stand there and look intelligent. :rotfl

Do ...de..do...dee da..de..dum...dee...doo.. dee.dum mdum Do ...de..do...dee da..de..dum...dee...doo.. dee.dum mdum Do ...de..do...dee da..de..dum...dee...doo.. dee.dum mdum Do ...de..do...dee da..de..dum...dee...doo.. dee.dum mdum Do ...de..do...dee da..de..dum...dee...doo.. dee.dum mdum:)
 
Okay, I'm gonna eMail a MS Word article to you.

GLOVE BOX DOOR REPAIR
By Bob Young NCRS #3342

Bob has developed a no-drill-the-rivets method. That is not how I did it, but this may prove to be a real improvement.
 
67HEAVEN said:
Okay, I'm gonna eMail a MS Word article to you.

GLOVE BOX DOOR REPAIR
By Bob Young NCRS #3342



Bob has developed a no-drill-the-rivets method. That is not how I did it, but this may prove to be a real improvement.

Ok... Now I have to figure out where you sent it ...Back in a min..
 
Ok Got it... I'll read it overThanks....

And Kid.... PM me and give me your email address ..I'm at work and don't have your email here....and I'll send you a copy...If this don't look to bad maybe you can come over and help me screw this up..:L
 
Glove box

There are two ways to change the aluminum face on the glove box door. If you replace the door from the back, you must drill out the rivets, drill out the stems and use a bottom tap to thread the stems for replacement of the supplied screws. I did it using a drill press. I forgot the size of the tap(the size of the drill and tap size should be in the instructions with the kit) but either get a bottom tap, or grind down a regular tap. You need the bottom tap because there may not be enough room in the leftover stem for threads with a regular tap. The other method requires fitting the panel from the front. The panel must be cut and trimmed and forced under the trim on top of the old panel. The second method will allow the rivets on the back to remain intact for judging. I can send you a copy of the long version for the second method. Whatever method you choose, take your time and be careful. The aluminum is soft and scratches easily. Let me know. Jerry
 
Tampa Jerry said:
There are two ways to change the aluminum face on the glove box door. If you replace the door from the back, you must drill out the rivets, drill out the stems and use a bottom tap to thread the stems for replacement of the supplied screws. I did it using a drill press. I forgot the size of the tap(the size of the drill and tap size should be in the instructions with the kit) but either get a bottom tap, or grind down a regular tap. You need the bottom tap because there may not be enough room in the leftover stem for threads with a regular tap. The other method requires fitting the panel from the front. The panel must be cut and trimmed and forced under the trim on top of the old panel. The second method will allow the rivets on the back to remain intact for judging. I can send you a copy of the long version for the second method. Whatever method you choose, take your time and be careful. The aluminum is soft and scratches easily. Let me know. Jerry

Thanks Jerry,
67 Heaven sent me a Word Doc that I think covers what you mentioned...in fact it might even be the same thing. I'll read it over and see what's what..

Thanks Again.
:beer
 
67HEAVEN said:

Thank You!

Boy my manners are getting bad .


I should rephrase it

Hey Bob I sure could use a copy of that, if you get a chance would you please send me a copy of it to my e-mail address. I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks Larry

I wont tolerate bad manners from my children so I guess should not tolerate my own bad manners

SORRY
 
Bob

would you be willing to let me host your article on my website tech pages so others can benefit from it also?
if you email it to me I'd love to post it up.
 
BarryK said:
Bob

would you be willing to let me host your article on my website tech pages so others can benefit from it also?
if you email it to me I'd love to post it up.

I'll send it to you, Barry, but the permission to host is not mine to grant.

You can contact the author. His info is in the article.
 
67HEAVEN said:
I'll send it to you, Barry, but the permission to host is not mine to grant.

You can contact the author. His info is in the article.

Bob,

I have replaced more of these G/B inserts then you can shake a stick at, but I have always carefully drilled the rivets , before taping and replacing them with the supplied minature screws. If someone has found a way to replace the insert with out drilling out the rivets I would like to see the article.

My only problem is the format. I don't have/use MSWord, so I wouldn't be able to read that format. Any ideas.

Regards
Stepinwolf
 
stepinwolf said:
Bob,

I have replaced more of these G/B inserts then you can shake a stick at, but I have always carefully drilled the rivets , before taping and replacing them with the supplied minature screws. If someone has found a way to replace the insert with out drilling out the rivets I would like to see the article.

My only problem is the format. I don't have/use MSWord, so I wouldn't be able to read that format. Any ideas.

Regards
Stepinwolf

I'll convert it to a PDF file, Robert. If you have Acrobat Reader, you will see it.
 
JL66REDCPE said:
I thought you glove box door looked fine the way it was. I dont remember seeing any scratches etc

Yep..there are scratches a and a number of small micro dents here and their.
It's an 8 foot-er glove box insert.

Any closer then 8 feet you can see the defects...:L
 

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