No battle plan survives contact with the enemy.

[haganml]

Really?

Well the distributor still hasn't come from that flake in Florida. I know that someone dropped the ball then kicked it out of bounds. When my parts department slipped up this bad they reported that the Elves in the Black forest were busy making it. They took our money fast enough. If they cannot get the part return the money paid and I will go somewhere else. Someday it will arrive I hope. Must be sitting in the shade of that palm tree and sipping iced sweet tea on a beach down there in Florida.

Anyway it is too hot to work in the garage.

Mark.

 

[Mac]

Yup... This is the time of year you want to be driving, not wrenching.

Mac

 

[kpic]

Well, there are three of them. A Delco w/tach drive that has a red aluminum ring around the shaft. A non stock Mallory w/tach drive and shutter wheel and a Accell w/tach drive that is missing the points plate and centrifugal advance weights. The PO was a racer and raced drag boats. He wasn't concerned with originality.
All it takes is cubic money.

Mark.

Back in the day, I had an Accel distributor with the tach drive in my 66 Coupe. The weights had tapped holes in them with two headless socket cap screws. The advance could be changed by removing the points plate and moving screws to a different position. As the PO was a racer, you may have one of them.

 

[haganml]

Delayed Gratification

My challenge now is connecting the 2014 manifold to the 1965 style water pump. I have several connectors I have tried to hook up with hoses, AN (Army/Navy) NPT (National Pipe Thread) and JIC (Joint Industries Council) AN and JIC appear to be the same but the JIC has a higher pressure rating for the hydraulic pressure operating systems in aircraft and heavy equipment industries. I had heard that AN stood for Aeronautical/Navy but that specification was in use in the Second World War and the Air Force at the time was the "Army Air Force". My father was in training in Santa Ana CA with the Army Air Force back in the day.

Distributor news; The vendor in Tampa, FL. 33624 is STILL telling my son that they have shipped the distributor then recanting the date and telling him that it will ship in 1-2 days. Really? I know we are a new account but we have paid up-front and the run-around is getting old.
I must have bad luck with businesses in that State, I have had nothing but issues with the operations from there.

 

[Mac]

Customer service seems to be a dying art.

I ordered a couple of specialized pieces of equipment from an outfit in Cali-pornia. They billed my credit card right away. Promised shipped date came & went. I pursued and eventually the salegeek claimed they ran out of the parts required to make the equipment and if I ordered sufficient quantity to justify the bother, he would request a new run... but I had to do so right away because their business was merging/being bought out and if I didn't make the order right away, it might not get processed. Otherwise, he would refund my money... I got the refund eventually.

Hmmm.... I just checked on the website and they're still offering the same product, unchanged from when I made my order... ad

Mac

 

[haganml]

Customer service seems to be a dying art.
Hmmm.... I just checked on the website and they're still offering the same product, unchanged from when I made my order... ad

Mac

This seems to be the way it is, Caveat Emptor! Maybe we need Government Oversight on the internet, NOT!

Mark.

 

[Mac]

This seems to be the way it is, Caveat Emptor! Maybe we need Government Oversight on the internet, NOT!

Mark.

If I want to get my son (age 22) wound up, a quick chat about internet neutrality works each and every time.

Mac

 

[haganml]

I just had a conversation with Aaron, we have a tracking number! If it is the correct part I'm going to have to get off my chase-lounge and get to work. Photos and comments to follow!

Mark.

 

[vigman]

Thought I would check back in

Looks like mucho progress……..
Nice!

Mike

 

[haganml]

Sorry for my lazyness, progress is being made

Here is my earlier attempt on the manifold to water pump connection. Note the 3 inch air cleaner that is too tall for me to close the hood.
This is the much improved connection that will allow an easy disconnect for removal of the manifold to change the camshaft if I am unsatisfied with throttle response.
The distributor is here and installed! Whoo Hoo! Heater hoses installed. Using a 14 X 2 inch air filter the hood will close. This is what I am working on right now. Considering that I will be using two 36 amp electric cooling fans and two relays to run the high and low beam lamps I increased the output of the electrical system to 60 (idle) - 190 (RPM) Amps. Using a self regulating 10Si Delco style alternator I am eliminating the old voltage regulator and installing a positive buss in it's place. Running a 8 AWG wire to the buss and a 10 AWG to the battery is a safety upgrade that I am much happier with than the original 12 AWG wire to the horn relay buss with the old system. I don't want to discharge the battery on those hot summer nights while I'm stuck in traffic with the headlights, the 73 amps of cooling fans plus the A/C that will be installed running full blast.

 

[Toms007]

You are making progress. Thanks for updating us. I am anxious, as are you I'm sure, to see the finished product.

 

[Tom Bryant]

I have a dropped air cleaner base that may allow you to keep the 3" filter as long as you have clearance under the filter so it can sit lower.

 

[haganml]

I have a dropped air cleaner base that may allow you to keep the 3" filter as long as you have clearance under the filter so it can sit lower.

I was looking into that but the Holley I'm using is a center hung dual feed float bowl and it stands proud of the top of the float bowl. Also I am up against the top of the coil with the bottom of the air cleaner base. The 5th photo shows the relationship of the air cleaner and the coil. I'll get some photos of the top for the float bowls.

It will be a driver and used on surface streets and freeways. I don't plan on drag racing it so I don't think the additional inch in the pleated paper filter will make much of a difference. The maximum recommended engine speed is 5,100 RPM, that is until I change out the cam shaft!
The bumps on the air cleaner base allow for the float adjustment on the center hung float bowls you see in the 3rd picture. I am VERY close to the fan temperature sensor with the base in the center picture. I will not be able to drop the air cleaner base due to running close in the front and back.

 

[haganml]

Igntion positive wire

Okay I have searched on the internet for the 18 AWG wire for the KOER 12 V power supply wire color code. A black wire that has a pink stripe longitudinally. I can have some made with a spiral pink stripe (minimum order 250 feet, $30.00 + shipping). There is a Ni-chrome black/pink (resistance wire) that runs to the voltage regulator terminal 4 that uses the impedance in the wire to stop engine run on when the key is turned off. I am using that to excite the internally regulated alternator.
I need the black/pink from the resistor block to operate a key-on relay on my secondary relay panel for the accessories I'm adding. I can use a solid black wire with some pink shrink tubing at connectors but it sure would be nice to have the original color code that Chevrolet used. I know I can get a custom made wire harness, but I am determined to get this done with out removing and replacing the engine harness. I can design and manufacture the updates to the original harness and systems with out compromising the harness.
My secondary relay panel will mount like the original voltage regulator using 3 well nuts. A battery (+) rail will be on the radiator support where the alternator output and voltage sensing wire will terminate. This will be the power supply (30 leg)for the horn relay, radiator fan relays, headlight low and high beam relays with the key-on relay. I am using a headlight wire junction block from a C4 to run the 86 leg on the sensor operated (85 leg) relays. The Battery (-) will be a screw stand off on the secondary relay panel.
Yes, I am being just a little anal about this but I am really anal about wiring, current draw and voltage on any wire system I use.
I can be creative about the wire color but I was hoping to be able to use the original wire color to supply the new electric choke heater and the other accessories I plan on introducing.
That was a rather long winded explanation of why I want this wire. Does anyone have a source for this GM specific wire color?

Thanks, Mark.

 

[Mac]

Someone must be making it since companies like Painless and others are producing correct wiring harnesses.

Mac

 

[haganml]

Someone must be making it since companies like Painless and others are producing correct wiring harnesses.

Mac

Checked Painless Performance (Thanks for the heads up Mac). They have a lot of wire with trace colors but no Black/Pink. I'll keep looking.

Mark.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Try Lectric Limited. They manufacture restoration harnesses so they must have the proper colors.

Tom

 

[haganml]

Try Lectric Limited. They manufacture restoration harnesses so they must have the proper colors.

Tom

Thanks Tom!

Spent some time on the Lectric Limited website. Very good FAQ/Technical section. In that section Lectric Limited emphatically states that they do not sell connectors or wire. FAQ G02 "Do you sell individual connectors, terminals, fuse link wire, resistance wire, or harness clips?". Simply states "We do not." They explain in detail why they do not in the same section. I understand and do not condemn their logic or reasons for not selling individual parts. They are a business and sell wire harnesses for a living.

Mark.

 

[Mac]

They gotta be getting their wire from somewhere. I can't see them custom ordering for particular colour combos for every harness they produce.

Another solution would be to get a full harness. If one wire in your current harness needs to be replaced, how much confidence do you have in the rest?

Mac

 

[haganml]

Another solution would be to get a full harness. If one wire in your current harness needs to be replaced, how much confidence do you have in the rest?

Mac -

The harness is in fairly good shape (only 97K miles and 47+ years). I am replacing some wires that are brittle due to heat, the temperature sender wire comes to mind. What I need the BLK/PNK wire for is that I am adding an electric choke for my Holley. I have settled on a section of pink shrink tube on a black wire near the choke. It kinda bugs me but that is my issue. I thought like most of my responders that I should be able to find a wire coded like I wanted somewhere on this world wide web. I would have to add the IGN (+) wire to the electric choke even if I did replace the harness with a new one anyway. I have decided to add in the harness modifications in such a way as to not alter the factory configuration. Just overlay the additions to the existing harness.

Mark.