Hard to Get into Reverse

[rrubel]

Hm. Backup lights work (see them reflected in the garage, and I just replaced the lenses). It actually seems equally difficult OR easy cold or warm - it doesn't always have a problem. The oil was professionally changed when I got the car a year ago; I'd hoped that would take care of the problem, but no luck.

Do you accept checks drawn on the Bank of Guinness? It's one step removed from motor oil anyway...
[RICHR]

 

[c4cruiser]

I'm starting to have

the same problem on my 87 4+3!! I just bought the car last month and all was well. Over the last couple of days I can't get into reverse without a lot of grinding.

The strange part is that everything is fine in the morning. after I drive about 10 miles, it becomes hard to get reverse. Going into low or second is sometimes difficult, but once moving the trany shifts fine.

The clutch friction point seem to be in the same place (about half to 3/4 way up from the floor). Had the car up on a rack and there is just minor moisture around the bellhousing boot but I have an oil leak above so it's hard to tell if there is leakage from the slave cylinder. Fluid level in the reservoir is still at the full mark.

Is this an indication of either the master or slave cylinder heading south??

 

[vigman]

Well that seems correct.... For pedal height

So try the following......

Car cold...Neutral

Start it... push in the clutch.. listen for any .. wind down noises..( like the throwout bearing)

Put the car in 1st.. no grind right?

Quickly put it reverse.. does it slide right in?

(Clutch is held down this entire time)

NOW

pull out of reverse.. let the car sit in neutral, clutch up...

Clutch in
( count to 4)

Put it in reverse.. still no go.. try again..STILL no go..

Put it in first now.. then reverse

Did it go in easy?

Do the same series of tests when warm..

Let me know.

( now open wide.. say AHHHHHHH)


Dr.Vig~

 

[c4cruiser]

Re: Well that seems correct.... For pedal height

So try the following......

Car cold...Neutral

Start it... push in the clutch.. listen for any .. wind down noises..( like the throwout bearing)
no noises at all (new Centerforce clutch and bearing 5K ago)
Put the car in 1st.. no grind right?
No grind
Quickly put it reverse.. does it slide right in?
yes
(Clutch is held down this entire time)

NOW

pull out of reverse.. let the car sit in neutral, clutch up...

Clutch in
( count to 4)

Put it in reverse.. still no go.. try again..STILL no go..
still goes in any gear just fine
Put it in first now.. then reverse

Did it go in easy?
yes
Do the same series of tests when warm..

Let me know.

( now open wide.. say AHHHHHHH)

Same tests after driving in stop and go traffic for 5-10 miles results in progressively worse grinding trying to go into reverse. Shifter doesn't really want to go into any forward gear at that point, but once I get it in 1st, then there is no problem in shifting up or down when moving. Once the reverse grinding starts, I have to kill motor, shift into reverse and start motor. After backing up I can go immediately into 1st with not too much of a problem.

I'm begining to suspect either air in the line or slave cylinder or a small leak that may be drawing air in once things get warm. I've had the car about 3 weeks now and this has just now started. I know the previous owner quite well and he did not have any problems. I had also driven the car on an extended test ride before buying. The new clutch and bearing was done at the time of some engine work and I know and trust the shop.

 

[vigman]

Well I agree ( with this data )

Sounds like a good bleed is in order ( first)

then replacement as nessesary..


What color is the clutch fluid?

Vig~

 

[c4cruiser]

fluid is pretty dark. The level is just a little above the middle of the full and add marks. The engine work and clutch was done a little over 2 years ago. I would assume that the clutch fluid was new at that point. The guy I bought it from had all maintenance work done at the shop where the work was done.

Is the slave cylinder rebiuldable with a parts kit? A new GM cylinder is in the $175 price range!!

 

[vigman]

Assuming

Bad thinking

Yes you can get a kit.. however the bore sometimes is full of yuck & scratches.

Take the OLD fluid out... with a turkey baster.
( BUY A NEW ONE.. the brake fluid reacts with the plastic.. and destroy's it)

Just remove down to the intake of the master, take a paper towel.. wipe as much out as you can.. check it a week later.

See if that helps.

You MIGHT want to try bleeding.. but it a deal to do.. do a search.. I ve posted about this ALOT!

But if things are marginal.. you will make it worse.

Vig!

 

[c4cruiser]

THANKS

for all the suggestions and tips Vigman!! Think I will take her in next week to get the system bled and see what that does.

Did a search on clutch bleeding and got some good info and it looked like others had the same sort of problem. One guy used a Mity-Vac on his clutch hydraulic system. Is that something that could work in case I have to bleed again? It gets expensive at the shop to have the system bled over and over. I don't have any real problems doing R&R type stuff, but not having a second body (or foot! ) to do bleeding can be a PITA sometimes.