SilverFoxDan
Member
Applies to 1992-93 C4's 5.7L Vin 8 that have electric Secondary Air Pimps
Part of the restoration of my '93 included pulling the secondary air pump (in the compartment below the left headlight). Found a corroded fuse... seized motor and a high water mark inside the pump housing. I should mention that the car did not throw a code (don't think there is one on this year) at any time. This pump normally comes on with a cold engine to pump O2 through the exhaust and catalytic systems (heats them up) so the rich mixture at start-up is burned more efficiently. Having a dead one will stress your catalytic converters and expel excess "bad stuff" out the pipes.
I was able to free up the motor (silicone and WD-40 soak) for now and I also drilled a 3/16's hole in the bottom of the pump housing to allow water to get out if any gets in going forward. I also tested the air flow before and after and this hole does not affect the air flow.
Notes:
1.
My pump in its restored state draws 17 Amps when running and puts out about 47 CFM. A Crude method to test air flow is to tape a 30 gallon garbage bag to the output and time how long it takes it to fill. In my case, it took about 6 seconds. To calculate, I used a solar air flow collector formula I picked up sometime before I hit my head and forgot where I found said formula. Anyway, you need two values:
Value1 = bag size * 0.155557
Value2 = 60 / # of seconds to fill bag
cfm = Value1 * Value2
My values:
Value1 = 30gal * 0.155557 = 4.66671
Value2 = 60/6 seconds to fill = 10
So... CFM = 4.66671 * 10 or about 47CFM
2. Pump comes out easily: Two bolts come totally out on the front (headlight) side of the pump bracket and one bolt that you just have to loosen up on motor side (forked bolt hole). Two hose clamps and two electrical connectors later and the pump is out. You can finger-spin the impeller with a good motor or hook it up to a battery watching the polarity of course.
Maybe the same guy who drowned my Opti-Spark also did in the pump. Rest of exhaust system (one way valves.. etc) seem ok.
By the way, I tried to price a pump from O'reilly and they called the company that used to rebuild them. O'reilly was told they would take the broken one in and, for $164.00 would look at it to see if they could fix it. If they could, it would generally be for a price above the 164.00. I tried Autozone and Napa and, even though they listed them as available on their web-sites, calling them got me pretty much the same answer. Since I got mine working for now I stopped looking.
Good luck with yours.
Part of the restoration of my '93 included pulling the secondary air pump (in the compartment below the left headlight). Found a corroded fuse... seized motor and a high water mark inside the pump housing. I should mention that the car did not throw a code (don't think there is one on this year) at any time. This pump normally comes on with a cold engine to pump O2 through the exhaust and catalytic systems (heats them up) so the rich mixture at start-up is burned more efficiently. Having a dead one will stress your catalytic converters and expel excess "bad stuff" out the pipes.
I was able to free up the motor (silicone and WD-40 soak) for now and I also drilled a 3/16's hole in the bottom of the pump housing to allow water to get out if any gets in going forward. I also tested the air flow before and after and this hole does not affect the air flow.
Notes:
1.
My pump in its restored state draws 17 Amps when running and puts out about 47 CFM. A Crude method to test air flow is to tape a 30 gallon garbage bag to the output and time how long it takes it to fill. In my case, it took about 6 seconds. To calculate, I used a solar air flow collector formula I picked up sometime before I hit my head and forgot where I found said formula. Anyway, you need two values:
Value1 = bag size * 0.155557
Value2 = 60 / # of seconds to fill bag
cfm = Value1 * Value2
My values:
Value1 = 30gal * 0.155557 = 4.66671
Value2 = 60/6 seconds to fill = 10
So... CFM = 4.66671 * 10 or about 47CFM
2. Pump comes out easily: Two bolts come totally out on the front (headlight) side of the pump bracket and one bolt that you just have to loosen up on motor side (forked bolt hole). Two hose clamps and two electrical connectors later and the pump is out. You can finger-spin the impeller with a good motor or hook it up to a battery watching the polarity of course.
Maybe the same guy who drowned my Opti-Spark also did in the pump. Rest of exhaust system (one way valves.. etc) seem ok.
By the way, I tried to price a pump from O'reilly and they called the company that used to rebuild them. O'reilly was told they would take the broken one in and, for $164.00 would look at it to see if they could fix it. If they could, it would generally be for a price above the 164.00. I tried Autozone and Napa and, even though they listed them as available on their web-sites, calling them got me pretty much the same answer. Since I got mine working for now I stopped looking.
Good luck with yours.
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