Hints for removing trailing arm bolts

[Jeff Farrar]

I have to get the rear toe in adjusted (-1/2 total right now) and need to replace the original trailing arm bolts and shims before anyone will probably want to look at it. I picked up new bolts and stainless slotted shims this weekend at Carlisle. I'm hoping that with new bolts and shims installed an alignment shouldn't be a too big of deal.
I was hoping some of you could share any hints or tricks you have for removing those bolts with the body on. My current plan is to disconnect the rear spring, bang the end of the bolt flush with frame, and pry it out on the other side. There is only slight surface rust in that area, so I'm praying that the bolts aren't seized. (I dream can't I?) Also plan on hitting that area with some PB Blaster for a week before hand. I REALLY want to avoid having to cut or torch the bolts outs. The arms are in good shape and bearings seem fine. I don't want to remove the arms if I don't have to. Just need to get an alignment.
I would really appreciate any tips.
Thanks!

 

[LVMYVT76]

I used a saws-all with a real long blade to cut mine.

 

[Kid_Again]

yeeah, tough to bang the bolts out because you have to go in at an angle......i got lucky only once with those bolts...i always soak the bolts in penetrating fluid for a couple of days (remove the nuts first if you can)...then i use anything handy that will reach into the front of the trailing arms (like a long screwdriver or a 3/8" socket extension or a long punch or whatever) and try to get the bolt moving by hammering on it


...usuaaly, though, i go the sawzall route as mentioned....buy a 10 pack of good metal cutting blades and pack a lunch...it will take all day

 

[Jeff Farrar]

I was planning on taking a piece of 1" dia. round bar and putting a hole or dimple in the end of it so it would stay on the end of the bolt as I was hitting it at an angle.

Am I correct in saying the sawzall route involves removing the arm (i.e. disconnecting the brake lines, shocks, half shafts)? Correct?

 

[Jeff Farrar]

Update: After a small fight, was able to drive both bolts out and new ones in (heavily coated in anti-seize). Should make for an easier job someday if I ever need to get the arms rebuilt.

 

[JL66REDCPE]

Did you use the method you described. Please explain.

 

[Kid_Again]

Update: After a small fight, was able to drive both bolts out and new ones in (heavily coated in anti-seize). Should make for an easier job someday if I ever need to get the arms rebuilt.

ARE YOU LUCKY!!! BUY LOTTERY TICKETS NOW!!!

 

[Jeff Farrar]

Did you use the method you described. Please explain.

Well it started with the cotter pin breaking into pieces and I had to remove enough of it in order to get a wrench on the bolt. Hitting the wrench with a hammer I sheared the pin and remove the nut. Then I took a 1/2" extension and even with the bad angle I was able to drive the bolt flush with frame. Using a crow bar on the head of the bolt (easier on the passenger side) I was able to walk the bolt out a little further. Ended up putting a 5/16" bolt back the hole and tapped on that to drive the bolt out the rest of way. With the shims out, I cleaned and painted the pocket the best I could with the arm still in place. I had to move the arms around a little for better access. But with arms still attached to the spring, sway bar, shocks, and half shafts it was a real PITA to move back into position while putting in the new bolt. I unhooked the sway bar and spring but it was still a pain. You have to hold the bolt with a long pair of pliers with one hand and position the arm with other. Not much leverage in that position. I then tapped the shims back into place matching the thickness of the old ones. I still need to take it to be aligned but I just made the job a whole lot easier.

 

[JL66REDCPE]

Jeff--thanks