Horse Power for 1982

[minifridge1138]

Fair answer.
Perhaps a better question: Who has installed what heads, and what improvement did you see. (for example "i installed edelbrock heads and i gained 50 hp").

 

[Evolution1980]

Fair answer.
Perhaps a better question: Who has installed what heads, and what improvement did you see. (for example "i installed edelbrock heads and i gained 50 hp").

We will need to know if everything else on the engine is stock or have you made other changes? If changes have been made, what was replaced by what? Ex: OEM manfold changed to Edelbrock Performer...OEM exhaust manifolds changed to Hedman Headers with 1 3/8" primaries...OEM cam changed to a CompCams ##-##-##... etc. Have there been any carb changes?

Oops, just went back to the top and saw this...If it helps someone answer his question...

Currently i've got a 750 cfm Holley and a Holley dual plane manifold.

 

[Curtis]

Maybe I shouldn't nose in again , but you don't really want to upgrade the top of that high mileage motor without at least freshening the bottom ......... do you? may be askin for trouble.

 

[Evolution1980]

Maybe I shouldn't nose in again , but you don't really want to upgrade the top of that high mileage motor without at least freshening the bottom ......... do you? may be askin for trouble.

Good point...again.
Mini, Refer to threads starting at #15.
Also, referring to your earlier question about what anyone has gotten at the rear wheels on the dyno with a specific engine... Does it matter that much?
I guess we're just trying to figure out what exactly it is that you want for your end result. We are simply trying to get you there for the best use of your buck. Dyno numbers don't mean a whole lot if you aren't doing anything with 'em. I can tell you that my car dynos in the 290 RWHP and 320 RWTq. But what's it really mean? Not much. What matters regardless of those numbers is my 1/4mi time and my top speed. What really are you going for as an end result?


"My car is not slow, and i will never NEED to go faster, but i'll sleep better knowing that it CAN go faster" doesn't really nail anything down in terms of what you want. Do you simply want HP/Tq number to brag about? Do you want a car that will go 12.99s in the 1/4 mi? Do you want a 170mph top speed? Where is your reference for "going faster"??? ;help You just want to sleep better at night knowing you can go faster? How much is your sleep worth to you??? :L :L


(Sometimes I get a bit too passionate about trying to help people figure out what they want... :L :L )

 

[Curtis]

I get 14.1 ET @102 mph. and with the 700R4 it cruises 70 mph gettin 19 mpg
still got a traction problem drag racing

 

[Glensgages]

Maybe I shouldn't nose in again , but you don't really want to upgrade the top of that high mileage motor without at least freshening the bottom ......... do you? may be askin for trouble.

I still haven't decided if I should buy a ZZ383 crate-motor to turn my '82 into a 12-second car, or use the existing L-83 Cross-Fire short-block as a foundation for building this:

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article027/A27-P1.htm

The L-83 has just 27,000 well-pampered miles, oil-changes every 2,000 miles, the Cross-Fire Injection won't allow it to be over-revved, and the only time this motor has come-close to 'being-warm' was this past Saturday at Bradenton Motorsports Park, when the last few rounds of eliminations were run quickly, just 15-20 minutes apart:
Series Director and Series Sponsor Tracy Lewis is shown delivering the Winner's Trophy to 'some fat-guy with a slow Corvette'

photo courtesy of RevXtreme Corvette Challenge Series @ Bradenton Motorsports Park.

 

[Curtis]

I still haven't decided if I should buy a ZZ383 crate-motor to turn my '82 into a 12-second car, or use the existing L-83 Cross-Fire short-block as a foundation for building this:

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article

Not wanting to blast your bubble, but they did the AFR heads in the Dangermouse Test. I think it was test 13 or 14, and the iron vortecs slaughtered them. See test 18 in thread above, it has the same cam you propose to run with those AFR heads. And look at the thread above of the engine I actually have. Just food for thought.

 

[Evolution1980]

Also, the article one the AFR heads is almost 6 years old. However, I've heard great things about both the iron vortec heads and the AFR's (with maybe a bit more praise overall going to the AFR's.)
As with anything and has been proven time and time again in the hotrod mags, mixing and matching parts will always give different numbers. Some heads work better with certain intakes and exhaust, and others will perform better based on a different cam profile being tested. Unfortunately, most of us don't have the luxury of testing 10 different combination of parts. So the best most of us can do is to find something current that we like and duplicate it. And as soon as you're done building it, some better combination will be discovered. :cool

 

[Glensgages]

Not wanting to blast your bubble, but they did the AFR heads in the Dangermouse Test. I think it was test 13 or 14, and the iron vortecs slaughtered them. See test 18 in thread above, it has the same cam you propose to run with those AFR heads. And look at the thread above of the engine I actually have. Just food for thought.

The only reason I'd consider the AFR's over GM Vortec heads would be they'd probably bleed-off heat better (being aluminum? ) for between-round cool-downs, and I believe the AFR's would-be better-suited for future, more-powerful builds, but the combination you show above will be given consideration
(I'd actually prefer using GM-Performance Parts pieces when possible ):
my real concern is/was using a 27,000 mile, 25+ year-old short-block, and expecting it to survive in this 10:1, 5600-RPM application.

 

[Curtis]

IMO the AFR have two advantages over the GM Vortec, that being the cool down factor and ability to run the higher compression ratio and stay out of detonation. However, the vortec heads in the tests listed previously are the old ones with the 165 runners, which are smaller then the afr and says something about velocity of the charge. Now they have Vortecs with larger ports, bigger valves and still cheaper than AFR. AFR only other advantage is the weight savings, and for me I would rather carry an extra 30 pounds and have and extra 30 ponies with it for a lot less money. Like you are doing, I asked a lot of questions and did a ton of research 4 or 5 years ago when I needed to redo my engine. I guess, if I was to work with a 27K motor, to me it would be worth the money to freshen up the bottom end and at least put in some better than cast pistons for power over 350 HP.This thing of which is better is all just preferences. I built what I wanted, you will build what you want. My budget was different than yours and so was my starting point. AS long as you put your hot motor in a vette and smoke some pony cars, then you have done the right thing. Smoke them stangs.

 

[Glensgages]

if I was to work with a 27K motor, to me it would be worth the money to freshen up the bottom end and at least put in some better than cast pistons for power over 350 HP.

From everything I've been able to read-up on the L-83 Cross-Fire, they use 2-bolt blocks, cast-iron cranks, production rods, but forged pistons, producing 9.1:1 squeeze with the OEM 76cc heads, and I thought they would be capable of handling 10:1 (w/ 64cc heads ) at roughly 5600 RPM:
if my thinking the bottom-end having forged pistons is incorrect, please let me know.

 

[Autom8r]

I have a GMPP ZZ-4 crate motor hooked up to a 700R4 in my '78 running thru Hooker long tube headers and a 3:55 gear out back. It makes 355 HP with a Q-jet. The ZZ4 comes with an HEI distributor and a performance intake with L-98 aluminum heads. Smooth as silk streetable and has all the power I REALLY need. I get 20 Hwy. MPG at 80 MPH. You likely have a taller gear in your '82 and would get even better MPG. The ZZ4 costs right at $3,500.00 and comes with a 2 year GM warranty. Hard to beat!!!

Dave

 

[Red69]

I still haven't decided if I should buy a ZZ383 crate-motor to turn my '82 into a 12-second car, or use the existing L-83 Cross-Fire short-block as a foundation for building this:

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article027/A27-P1.htm

The L-83 has just 27,000 well-pampered miles, oil-changes every 2,000 miles, the Cross-Fire Injection won't allow it to be over-revved, and the only time this motor has come-close to 'being-warm' was this past Saturday at Bradenton Motorsports Park, when the last few rounds of eliminations were run quickly, just 15-20 minutes apart:
Series Director and Series Sponsor Tracy Lewis is shown delivering the Winner's Trophy to 'some fat-guy with a slow Corvette'

photo courtesy of RevXtreme Corvette Challenge Series @ Bradenton Motorsports Park.

That is one fine looking 82 Glen. I'm sure it will be a winner whatever you decide to do. That 502 crate is tempting, but probably not the best choice for a bracket racer. I'm working on a strategy to get the AFR 180 swap done before laying down the green. Thanks for the tips!

 

[minifridge1138]

You're all right, my goal of "faster" is too vague. I have also discovered that my throttle linkage was nerfed, and that I am not never getting WOT. Which explains why every bozo in a Mustang pwns me at red lights.

I'm fixing the throttle linkage and tuning the carb later this week, so maybe I'll get enough speed without replacing anything.

I appreciate all of the answers i got, and I'll let you know what i find out this weekend. Thanks!

 

[Glensgages]

That 502 crate is tempting, but probably not the best choice for a bracket racer. I'm working on a strategy to get the AFR 180 swap done before laying down the green. Thanks for the tips!

Red69..... you might wanna hold-off on that AFR purchase:
Curtis has done some simulator-work for me regarding the vortec head/RPM Air-Gap swap onto my existing L-83 short-block that might interest you for a similar swap onto your L-82 short-block.


When I formulate all the information he has relayed to me and that we've exchanged, I'll send it your way, as the power-levels being discussed are in-line with your goals for a street-driven, low-maintenance, 13-second bracket-racer, too.

 

[Red69]

Glen], thanks for the data sheet provided by curtis, that is an impressive package. After looking through the Edelbrock catalog, Scoggin-Dickey's price makes a compelling perfrormance upgrade package. I was planning on aluminum heads, but with that performance per dollar, I can live with the weight. Can I assume I use my stock pushrods? How about any advantage of substituting roller tipped rockers? Scoggin-Dickey say an Air-Gap manifold comes with the package, but it appears to be a Performer shown. I'm definately getting warmer.

 

[Glensgages]

Can I assume I use my stock pushrods? How about any advantage of substituting roller tipped rockers? Scoggin-Dickey say an Air-Gap manifold comes with the package, but it appears to be a Performer shown.

Curtis may-be able to answer the question about using existing push-rods, but I'd suspect you might need some special-length pieces, and I believe Curtis used 1.6:1 ratio roller-tipped rockers in test #15 (see-above ):
although SDP offers kits with various intakes for the vortec heads, both Curtis and I think they use the same photo with the Performer, for all kits.


I know you've said your L-82, equipped with the L-79/#151 cam, runs outta steam above 5200 RPM, and combined with 3.73s and 25.75" tall tires, you're about wound-tight at 1000', but I'd think this intake/head/cam package would easily permit 5800 RPM trap-speeds, and 13.70s @ 103+ MPH are in your future.

 

[Curtis]

I heard my name, soo...........Stock length pushrods were fine in my motor, with the old style vortecs, not the new ones with bigger runners,the block wasn't decked so much as to mess things up but it won't hurt to check yours. comp magnum roller tip rockers recommended, need to be self aligning type or else use regular magnum roller rockers and guideplates. Cam breakin is crucial with these Extreme Energy cams, follow manufacturer recommendations exactly

 

[Glensgages]

Cam breakin is crucial with these Extreme Energy cams, follow manufacturer recommendations exactly

I have heard this sooooo -many times regarding the "XE"-Series of cams that I had given much thought to running the 25+ year-old, symetric-pattern 280H cam instead.....

 

[minifridge1138]

Hello again,

I spent Sunday working on my car, and I got some very nice results. To sum up, I realized that my stock 350 did not need a 750 cfm carburetor. So i replaced it with a 600 cfm. I'm sure that this seems blasphemous to some readers. (It is my car I can do what I want). My performance has increased dramatically. I have smoother acceleration, I am leaving rubber marks at redlights, and (my favorite part) i went from 14 mpg to 22 mpg. And considering that this is my daily driver, I will be saving $1,059 per year on gasoline.

Thanks for all of the advice, and by all means continue to post ideas for more HP!!!