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Help! hot start

Wallyr

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
6
Location
Tempe,AZ
Corvette
1986 Coupe
I have an 86 with 27k no mods orig injectors, my hot start problem is driving me crazy, I have been looking at postings about leaking injectors, my problem is that after I drive for 20 min I can shut off and restart easily after 1 minute but when I let it sit 10 min big problems starting, after cooldown easy starting again.
If I hook up fuel pressure gauge will it show injector leakdown? Also is there a way to turn on fuel pump a few seconds b4 starting ?

Wallyr;help
 
I have an 86 with 27k no mods orig injectors, my hot start problem is driving me crazy, I have been looking at postings about leaking injectors, my problem is that after I drive for 20 min I can shut off and restart easily after 1 minute but when I let it sit 10 min big problems starting, after cooldown easy starting again.
If I hook up fuel pressure gauge will it show injector leakdown? Also is there a way to turn on fuel pump a few seconds b4 starting ?

Wallyr;help
The pump is already supposed to come on for a a few seconds at Key Up!!:thumb
A pressure gauge will tell if there is a leak down,But you'll need to do some tests to tell if it is Injectors,Fuel Pressure Regulator,Fuel Pump or something else!!:thumb:thumb:thumb
Do you have a FSM??:confused

:beer
 
I have an 86 with 27k no mods orig injectors, my hot start problem is driving me crazy, I have been looking at postings about leaking injectors, my problem is that after I drive for 20 min I can shut off and restart easily after 1 minute but when I let it sit 10 min big problems starting, after cooldown easy starting again.
If I hook up fuel pressure gauge will it show injector leakdown? Also is there a way to turn on fuel pump a few seconds b4 starting ?

Wallyr;help

I just drove it and it started to bog severely off idle , this is something new.
 
Odds are you have leaking injectors. I had similar issues on my 1988. Could smell raw gasoline by pulling a few plugs on each side after a 10 minute hot soak, but this is hit or miss method depending on which injectors are leaking. Invest in a fuel pressure gauge with relief tube and factory service manual if you don't have one already. If you have a VOM, you can measure each one and post the readings. FIC's Bosch IIIs are excellent replacements for around $200 with all the plenum gaskets and o-rings.
 
The FIRST thing to have after purchasing a vette is FSM. The LAST thing to do to a vette is modifications which change baseline specification/parameters, UNLESS it was done on a NEW car, AND, the new baseline specs were put into a chip, AND were recorded on paper.

Otherwise, tune diags is a shot in the dark YUP...

You'll test pump strength and FPR diaphragm spring strength later, but first:

First, cap the return line, AFTER the FPR. DON'T PINCH LINES - you'll damage them, especially if you really pinch to STOP flow.

After disconnecting and capping the line, COLD motor, turn the key on to prime the pressure in the fuel rails. Have a pencil/paper ready (although you know already it's dropping almost immediately).

Note pressure let-off time in 5 second increments (or 10, 15, 30). If (since yours is going to 0 in a few seconds, this won't take long to find.

Pull the FPR vacuum line, and get a whiff. If the motor was cold, you might find gas in the vacuum line. This will indicate a ruptured diaphragm in the FPR. Ruptured diaphragm will make for hard hot restarts, among other things, poor mileage, etc.

Fix, and start over.

If pressure still drops quickly, look for leaks along the entire line, from tank to FPR.

Fix, and start over.

If pressure still drops quickly, your injectors might leak. Put your multimeter on them, and test for resistance. Uneven or low readings could indicate leaking injectors. Pull the rails (with injectors) carefully from the manifold, get a container under each injector, and prime the rails. Look for leakers, and replace if necessary.

A tip for BEFORE pulling - squirt some Armor-All into the injector port if there's any debris in them, and blow away excess, or hit it with the Shop-Vac. You don't want anything getting in the ports behind the injectors into the intake, or anything blocking the o-ring seal at re-asembly.

Re-assemble, and start over. Quick pressure drop now is a faulty pump assembly.

End of static fuel pressure diagnostics. Now do dynamic test, to test the diaphragm spring in the FPR (don't assume it's good, even if new).

BOOKMARK THIS POST UH HUH YUP

--------------------------------
The vacuum line to the FPR is for acceleration enrichment.

Proper function is confirmed on a dynamic pressure test. Increased rpm's (and vacuum to FPR) makes extra fuel available for enrichment. This test however is after static tests have been completed...

The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 4 characters.
 
gmjunkie you are right, put in new fuel pump, runs and starts great, thank you very much:beer
Glad to have helped!!
Even a Old Squirrel finds a nut once in a while!:L :thumb
:D
 
your tank screen was probably clogged with rust and dirt from 20 yrs of use. whats worse is the storage time. Metal in the tank will rust and those flakes come off and end up in the pump screen. add some dirt from the filler neck and trashy fills and its a shock that screens and pumps dont fail annually.

Fuel pressure test gauge is the best tool a guy can have at home for his vette.
 

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