I blew it!!!

[72 Bluz]

Mike, check your mail
Bill

 

[vigman]

Mail it to my home

vigman@earthlink.net

 

[vigman]

Da horn relay in a 72

So the horn relay ( and the shop manual is NOT clear about this) in my 73 book, and yours might be a bit different.

Is located near the Master brake
on the inside of the fenderwell near the windsheild washer fill neck.

There's a single stud with a group of 3 wires on lugs ( ring )red's & oranges, and a 2 pin connector with a black( horn contactor) & a Dark green( horn output).

This is used for power distribution.

The solid red wire is the feed.

This is fed from the bottom of the starter.

A single ( gorilla ) black line from the battery goes on one of the starter Studs.

The book shows ONLY 1 line coming off, and that link should be the one that's blown.

Now the factory book states Dark Brown is a 14 gauge wire..... but NO CURRENT LIMIT

To test if this is blown, put your test light on the horn relay stud, if it lights the link might not be blown.......

Mike

 

[tvalley641]

Can you see if you have 12v to solenoid? I'll bet you do not. Check that out and let us know.

PS - Did you say you have power to all other accessories. How about lights, horn and heater. I'll bet you do.

Ted

 

[vigman]

I'll bet the other way

If he has NO power to the back of the ALT
( red wire) the entire sys is dead!


Mike

 

[vigman]

More bad thought's

If you fail the first test.. You will have to jack up the car & get underneath to the starter area.

Have your test light handy, and get a buddy to help.

Remember at this point your working the system HOT.

Check the big stud @ the starter to see if it's hot.

Locate the brown wire coming off that same lug.

Turn the headlights on ( if they blink on then die...continue)

You will have to tear the tape off the harness to find the connect point ( to normal wire )

Check with the test light that the Stud is still hot.

Find the junction and poke your light in there. I'll bet it's cold( off )

So then we must tear out the old link & replace it.

DISCONNECT BATTERY.


Mike

 

[72 Bluz]

No power - period. Nothing works.

Bill

 

[Colorado]

With the key off:

1. Remove the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the red wire at the alternator. Make sure it touches *** absolutely nothing ***.
3. Connect the negative battery cable.
4. Now check to see if you have power at the red wire that you disconnected from the alternator.

CAUTION: You may draw some good sparks when you disconnect the negative battery cable. Make sure the area is really well ventilated so that no battery gasses are present.

 

[vigman]

Oh

In the fuse holder.. did you get your ohm meter out & check that fuse ( on the orange wire?)

Mike

 

[72 Bluz]

Didn't have an ohm meter (at the time - do now) so I went ahead and put a new fuse in.

Bill

 

[vigman]

Was the old one.....

Blown.. do you now have power to the STUD?

Mike

 

[72 Bluz]

I didn't see a break in the old fuse (AGC 30) but the element was really warped, so I replaced it. Did that before you started assisting me. Funny thing, did check the red end of the fuse holder - got power a couple of times but most recently - nothing.

Bill

 

[vigman]

Well that Ice's it

Time to find the link under the car by the starter.

Betting it's DEAD!

Mike

 

[72 Bluz]

Going to fix her today

Been out of town for a while. This is my first weekend to tackle this. Noticed today that I have power to the alt and the horn relay stud when the key is off. When I turn the key to start nothing happens, but I lose power at the alt and the horn relay. Was ready to climb under and look for the fusible link between the starter and alt. Now I'm wondering if it's something in my ign switch. Ideas, anyone? This is driving me bonkers.:confused

Bill

 

[tvalley641]

Is your 12 v going totally to zero when you hit the key, or not quite there?

Ted