I suppose the shop that owes you the free labor that your talking about the legal thing with has already rebuilt your motor and it has now failed ? What kind of warranty did you get? How long has it been? What work was actually done to the motor? What type of failure has occured? Did you get this in writing? You may have legal recourse that isn't that hard to set in action.. It depends on what kind of deal you had with the shop (in writing) and what type failure has occured.. I own an auto repair shop and always give at least a year warranty on any engine, new crate or long block sometimes even longer.. It does depend on what has happened, if you blew a radiator hose and drove till it melted down then its your problem.. If you really have a case Legal action is not that hard to set in motion but if you do this just go for a settlement and take it somewhere else.. He couldn't fix it the first time, why would this time be any different? And you dont want a P***** off mechanic working on your car..
Actually, that brother does owe me enough money to buy a new TB, and get a good start on my headers. Oh, sorry Justin, not to put the heat on you are anything.
I have no problems so far. I do however have a lean exhaust occuring. I am not sure if this is an EGR problem, or if the oxygen sensor should be replaced. I asked him about it, and he said there is no way it should run lean. I put a new knock sensor on it, with new injectors, and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I am not able to run as much timing on pump gas due to the increase in compression. I think all he said I could run would be about 7 degrees.
I am going to pay close attention to what is going on.
This was the guys disclaimer for the warranty:
"Just take care of the engine. Change the oil every 3000 miles, or 3 months, and document anything you can. Warranty void if I put a fram oil filter on it, except for the HP4, which is the race filter."
Thats it, and it is in writing. 5 year 50,000 miles
Nice warranty Craig! How do you know you're lean? What is your FP? You don't want to be lean on your fuel tables for too long You will damage the motor.
You're doing all right, IMO. Worst case scenario is that you wait until tax refunds but we can convince Justin that you shouldn't have to wait until then.
I wouldn't even use that FRAM HP4. Go with a K&N. Mobil 1 discontinued our oil filter for a smaller filter; I don't feel comfortable with that so I went with K&N. The 1" hex on the bottom makes changing the filter so easy!
Actually, that brother does owe me enough money to buy a new TB, and get a good start on my headers. Oh, sorry Justin, not to put the heat on you are anything.
Moe , your right . It was kind of a blanket answer with the claim that the 48mm would support 450HP. My example is apples to oranges . But I still beleive Craigs engine will run better with the 52mm. With addition of headers and a better exhaust I cant see why it wouldnt. The torque is great but no HP, Why not flatten out the torque curve alittle and use some of the HP?
Yeah, I am running the Fram oil filter, with Mobil 1 synthetic.
Moon, I am getting a lean exhaust code from the computer. It is code 44 or 42. Something like that. I have both codes because the EST wire was unplugged when the car was timed. However I do notice the light coming on.
The guy said he set the final fuel pressure at 47 lbs. I am going to check it though. Boy I would think that would be plenty enough. I need to get one of those scanners so I can see what the O2 sensor is doing. I should unplug the ECM to clear the codes, but I hate to make the computer re learn all over again. Is there a way to clear the codes, without removing power from the ECM?
Funny thing though, I removed the EGR, and have not set one EGR code yet. Had the car on the highway crusing along with in town driving. Is that not crazy. Before the rebuild, I would throw that code every once in a while. Could the EGR have something to do with the lean exhaust code??
Max I can see your point but I believe even with Headers and Exhaust Craig's engine won't be able to harness the airflow of a 52mm TB. His cam is fairly small.
What is considered a small cam? Do you look at duration for intake and exhaust cycles, or the lift?
Okay, justin helped me check the fuel pressure. With the vacuum line unhooked, it was 55 psi, and with the vacuum hooked up it was 47. That seems like I should be running really rich, but I guess on a stroker motor that may not be the case.
Usually under 230 duration@.050. My friend and I built a 71 307 SBC for his 74 Nova and the cam in that is 224/234 Dur@.050. Thats healthy for a 307 but small for a 350 he can still roast em even with posi however..
What is the lobe seperation? I didn't want to get too much higher then what I already have. ONly because the bigger cams are not good street components. Everyone at one point has thought, oh jeez I will put the biggest cam I can find in a motor. Most dont realize what happens. I picked a cam that will give me more of both. I didn't want to sacrifice one at the cost of the other. Being torque, and horsepower.
The duration of my cam is 218 224 at .500. This is similiar to the other cams that most run here I think.
Moe , I did forget he has stock heads. And the cam is milder. But that was the plan. He didnt what issues with the tune .
My cam is 230/234 .487/.495 112*
Craig , I recommend the AC duraguard filter. Test have proven it is one of the top filters. And they are cheap. I have always run them.
Al;so , I cant see why you would get a egr code , you dont have one.
Did you reset the computor after you set initial timing With the est unplugged. You should set timing then plug in and then shut off, disconnect the battery and reconnect, start car. Codes should clear. If your O2 is old, you might replace it with a Bosch.
I told him to pull a plug, if they are wet then he is running rich. From what I can gather it can't be running to rich because I don't think hes having an O2 code, and the car seems to run excellent.
I'm sure someone will correct me, but I thought the advantage of going to a larger injector was being able to LOWER the fuel pressure, thus giving a longer service life. Larger injector, higher pressure, seems contradictory. I have to bump the pressure on my smaller ones to keep pace with the engine.
Oh, and the purpose of EGR is to lean out the mixture at certain times. If you're running lean withOUT the EGR, then there's something else wrong.
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