Welcome to the Corvette Forums at the Corvette Action Center!

Question: I know the answer, but I have to ask . . .

Elliott

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
72
Location
Iowa
Corvette
1979 Midnight Blue Coupe
My 1979 coupe stock wheels have a flat black shadow painted on the back side of the wheel slots/spokes. The shadow is badly faded and peeled away from the edge in spots on all of the wheels. It looks like a lot of work to remove the wheels, sand it all down, tape around each of the outside edges of the slots, etc., etc., etc. Please tell me there are some easy shortcuts to doing this or is it as tedious and labor intensive as it looks? Dave
 
How about this.... Rub it with a scotch-brite pad, clean it and use a flat black paint pen. If you're careful you probably don't even need to mask.

Try the local hobby shop for the paint pen.

Scott
 
What a GREAT idea! The key will be whether the paint quality will hold up over time, but it's definitely worth a shot. Thanks Scott!
 
If you don't mind taking the wheels off, you could mask/cover the slot on the outside and paint from the inside. Of course you'd still need to prep as sstearns2 suggested.
 
I'd just take the wheels off and do it right. If the wheels have been polished and/or aren't clearcoated, use some regular paint stripper on the slots. Keep it off the black centers, tho, unless you want to refinish that, too.
Somebody in the past painted your slots as original 79 wheels would have raw aluminum finish in the slots.
 
Really? I wasn't aware of that, I just assumed that was how they came stock. I wonder if it would be easier to just remove the black paint and try to restore the aluminum finish. Thanks for letting me know. Dave
 
When I bought a set at a swap meet, they were unpainted but I liked the look of the painted holes better so after a good cleaning and polishing I painted them.
1. Scuff the areas you're painting with a scotchbrite pad to roughen up any previous paint attempt.
2. Clean off any remaining gunk with simple green, then brake cleaner, and finally some rubbing alcohol.
3. Tape off the entire wheel with masking tape. With a razor blade, trim the tape in the holes.
4. Paint with an automotive primer. Make sure you have good coverage by hitting from the front and rear of the wheel.
5. For the color coat, use either a wheel paint or a heavy duty paint. I used a Rustoleum paint rated as heavy duty (can't remember the exact name but its a silver can). I did about 3 coats letting it dry 15 minutes in the sun in between coats.
6. Once you're done with the last coat let it dry about 5 minutes and pull off all the tape. By doing it when it is not fully dry, you eliminate the risk of pulling the paint off with it. You can also alleviate this by cutting the tape edge with a razor blade.
7. If there is any overspray, clean it up with a touch of alcohol and/or brake cleaner on a cotton swab. Be careful to not get any on the areas you want painted. that's why I use the brake cleaner so much, it dries so quickly that there aren't any drips to screw up the paint.
8. Don't use any other cleaners or touch the paint for at least 24-48 hours to let it fully dry and cure. Don't drive either or you might get dust into your new paint.
9. After that you should be fine using regular cleaners and washing regimens.

I redid the center portion and the caps when I did mine, it was a pain in the butt to mask off all of that but it was worth the effort as it turned out really good. I would say it took about 30 minutes per wheel to do right.
Nifty50s071.jpg
 
:thumb

Shooting from the back side will minimize overspray on the front of the wheels.

:)
Only problem is that I found the coverage to be lacking near the edge . Because the opening is wider on the outside, I found it hard to get a good coat to go to the edge so I hit it from both sides to get an even coat.
 
How about this.... Rub it with a scotch-brite pad, clean it and use a flat black paint pen. If you're careful you probably don't even need to mask.

Try the local hobby shop for the paint pen.

Scott
The paint pens that you use for models aren't good for the full size cars I've found out. It doesn't seem to last. On a high use area (like the wheels) a better paint is necessary.
 
Thanks for the detailed information. Gorgeous car! I love white, but my wife wanted red or blue. What do you recommend to clean the wheels. Mine need some work. Also, did you use a flat black paint?
 
Thanks for the detailed information. Gorgeous car! I love white, but my wife wanted red or blue. What do you recommend to clean the wheels. Mine need some work. Also, did you use a flat black paint?
Thanks. Funny thing is we're thinking of changing the color. :)

the best stuff to polish the wheel is the Mother's Powerball and Mother's or Meguiars Aluminum polish. You can do it by hand with the aluminum polish but the powerball is much easier.
I used a gloss paint but a semigloss would work too. Flat doesn't look right for some reason
 
Thanks. Funny thing is we're thinking of changing the color. :)

the best stuff to polish the wheel is the Mother's Powerball and Mother's or Meguiars Aluminum polish. You can do it by hand with the aluminum polish but the powerball is much easier.
I used a gloss paint but a semigloss would work too. Flat doesn't look right for some reason

Thanks for the info. Couple more questions if you dont' mind. First, will the aluminum polish deep clean the wheels? In other words, is it a cleaner or more of a wax product? My wheels have been neglected through the years and need something to deep clean them to bring back the shine, if that is possible. Any recommendations? Also, what do you recommend for a wax for the body? TX Dave
 
Thanks for the info. Couple more questions if you dont' mind. First, will the aluminum polish deep clean the wheels? In other words, is it a cleaner or more of a wax product? My wheels have been neglected through the years and need something to deep clean them to bring back the shine, if that is possible. Any recommendations? Also, what do you recommend for a wax for the body? TX Dave
Can never ask too many questions.
The wheels were heavily corroded and not shiny one bit when we bought them at a swap meet. The finish was smooth but looked unpolished.
I got a mother's powerball (the mini works best in my opinion) and the aluminum polish (it's not a wax but in the same aisle at walmart).

After I washed the wheels of the years of dust on them with normal car wash soap and some degreaser, I took an old sock and the aluminum polish and applied it to the wheel. Apply it just like you would car wax but be more liberal with it, you'll take the excess off with the powerball. As you apply it, you'll see the polish start to turn black. This is normal as it is pulling off the corrosion. Don't let it dry, it works best wet.

with the powerball, you'll want to use an electric drill unless you have a badass cordless one, they just don't have the power and longevity of a corded drill.

I applied a little of the polish to the powerball before use to "prime" it. (It keeps it taking off too much polish at the start). Go to town on the wheel and you will see results pretty quickly. Apply more polish as necessary to get it all nice and shiny. Be careful around the holes with the powerball as it can tear it up if you're not careful if you use too much pressure and the powerball fibers will catch the edge of the holes and tear. (with the large powerball it is definitely harder to avoid them).

Once you got a good shine, wipe off the residue with a rag.

I haven't used any wax on the wheels, I don't even know if it's recommended for un-cleared aluminum but once it's polished, it holds up quite well, a periodic hand polishing with the aluminum polish might be all that's necessary.

As far as a wax for the body of the vette, our paint is not in great shape but a buddy of mine who owns www.specialtymotoring.com recommended a cutting cream ClearKote Blue Moose Cutting Cream to remove oxidation and then Poly-Seal Optimum Poli-Seal to seal and protect and it did a great job on the bad paint.
Here are the results:
corvette001.jpg


Side by side comparison of the t-tops. The one on the left has had no work done to it. The one on the right had the oxidation removed and a coat of poly-seal on it.
corvette011.jpg

corvette014.jpg



The stuff works great on all paintjobs. I did my Mazda 6 with the polyseal (new paint that didn't need polishing) and the results are spectacular
013.jpg

The water beads almost like rain-x on both cars and it holds up very well to the elements and the stuff goes a long way.

If you go through Specialty Motoring, tell him his neighbor Greg sent you and he'll hook you up. If you have specific questions about your paint, he'll help you out.
(this is not a plug for his business, I'm just a satisfied user who used Zymol, Meguiars and Mother's in the past and was happier with these products)
 
Can never ask too many questions.
The wheels were heavily corroded and not shiny one bit when we bought them at a swap meet. The finish was smooth but looked unpolished.
I got a mother's powerball (the mini works best in my opinion) and the aluminum polish (it's not a wax but in the same aisle at walmart).

After I washed the wheels of the years of dust on them with normal car wash soap and some degreaser, I took an old sock and the aluminum polish and applied it to the wheel. Apply it just like you would car wax but be more liberal with it, you'll take the excess off with the powerball. As you apply it, you'll see the polish start to turn black. This is normal as it is pulling off the corrosion. Don't let it dry, it works best wet.

with the powerball, you'll want to use an electric drill unless you have a badass cordless one, they just don't have the power and longevity of a corded drill.

I applied a little of the polish to the powerball before use to "prime" it. (It keeps it taking off too much polish at the start). Go to town on the wheel and you will see results pretty quickly. Apply more polish as necessary to get it all nice and shiny. Be careful around the holes with the powerball as it can tear it up if you're not careful if you use too much pressure and the powerball fibers will catch the edge of the holes and tear. (with the large powerball it is definitely harder to avoid them).

Once you got a good shine, wipe off the residue with a rag.

I haven't used any wax on the wheels, I don't even know if it's recommended for un-cleared aluminum but once it's polished, it holds up quite well, a periodic hand polishing with the aluminum polish might be all that's necessary.

As far as a wax for the body of the vette, our paint is not in great shape but a buddy of mine who owns www.specialtymotoring.com recommended a cutting cream ClearKote Blue Moose Cutting Cream to remove oxidation and then Poly-Seal Optimum Poli-Seal to seal and protect and it did a great job on the bad paint.
Here are the results:
corvette001.jpg


Side by side comparison of the t-tops. The one on the left has had no work done to it. The one on the right had the oxidation removed and a coat of poly-seal on it.
corvette011.jpg

corvette014.jpg



The stuff works great on all paintjobs. I did my Mazda 6 with the polyseal (new paint that didn't need polishing) and the results are spectacular
013.jpg

The water beads almost like rain-x on both cars and it holds up very well to the elements and the stuff goes a long way.

If you go through Specialty Motoring, tell him his neighbor Greg sent you and he'll hook you up. If you have specific questions about your paint, he'll help you out.
(this is not a plug for his business, I'm just a satisfied user who used Zymol, Meguiars and Mother's in the past and was happier with these products)

Thanks for all of the information! I was planning to order the Mothers products on-line until you mentioned Walmart. Went there tonight and found everything I needed. I will check on-line with the cleaner and wax you mentioned.

Another question for you. Did you change the leaf springs in your car? Mine has a little bit of a sag in the rear and I noticed from your photo that yours looks nice and level. Also, have you replaced your shocks, if so what kind and why? Lots of opinions on the topic. TX again! Dave
 
I just ordered both products online from Specialty Motoring and attached a message indicating you said I would get a 25% discount on my order.

Not really. Thanks for the tip on the products. Dave
 
Thanks for all of the information! I was planning to order the Mothers products on-line until you mentioned Walmart. Went there tonight and found everything I needed. I will check on-line with the cleaner and wax you mentioned.

Another question for you. Did you change the leaf springs in your car? Mine has a little bit of a sag in the rear and I noticed from your photo that yours looks nice and level. Also, have you replaced your shocks, if so what kind and why? Lots of opinions on the topic. TX again! Dave
The spring was replaced years ago (before we got it) with a fiberglass spring. It seems a little soft and may have to be replaced again. The shocks are Monroe (don't know what model) that were replaced shortly before we got it. If you need more info, I'll get under her tonight and see if I can get more info but they look look like standard replacements
 
I just ordered both products online from Specialty Motoring and attached a message indicating you said I would get a 25% discount on my order.

Not really. Thanks for the tip on the products. Dave

LOL! I don't even get a discount like that! I'll stop by today and tell him to fix ya up. :beer
 
Don't crawl under it on my account. If they are Monroe's they may be stock replacements. I did get an email this morning that the car products were being shipped today. I won't have time to use any of the cleaners or to work on the wheels until this weekend, but I'm anxious to see the difference it will make. Thanks again for your help! Dave
 
Don't crawl under it on my account. If they are Monroe's they may be stock replacements. I did get an email this morning that the car products were being shipped today. I won't have time to use any of the cleaners or to work on the wheels until this weekend, but I'm anxious to see the difference it will make. Thanks again for your help! Dave
Cool. Hope it turns out well. If you have an orbital buffer, it will make it a lot easier but even by hand it works well, you just get tired quicker.
Post up some pictures too!
 

Corvette Forums

Not a member of the Corvette Action Center?  Join now!  It's free!

Help support the Corvette Action Center!

Supporting Vendors

Dealers:

MacMulkin Chevrolet - The Second Largest Corvette Dealer in the Country!

Advertise with the Corvette Action Center!

Double Your Chances!

Our Partners

Back
Top Bottom