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I need your help guys

grumpyvette

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 17, 2001
Messages
841
Location
Loxahatchee, FL, Palm Beach co
Im in the process of building my new garage (owner/builder)
I need to order shingles, the garage mearures 36 feet x 74 feet in floor area (2664 sq feet) Im installing a HIP ROOF 6:1 with a 2 ft overhang
1093292688_te.jpg
vaugely similar to this (roof not the garage) ,and I need to know the approximate numbers of SQUARES of roof shingles to order, but never having built a garage before Id be guessing at about 34 squares worth of shingles???? to allow for the usually % of screw-ups , fitting ETC,?? any help from guys that do roofs or contractors who build garages ETC. for a living would be appreciated guys
perhaps I stated the 6:1 wrong, IM refering to a 6" raise in height for a 1 foot length of roof, aproximately a 30 degree slope?

yeah I have hired experianced roof guys to do the actual work, buy they have aggreed to do all work and supply everthing but the shingles BECAUSE I wanted MUCH BETTER QUALITY than the average job they usually supply or install so they ask me to get them delivered to the job, they gave me an estimate on the number of squares but it seemed to be low in my estimation, so I wanted to check before ordering the shingles

thanks guys, Im figuring on 36 sqs does that sound about correct??
btw heres a link that may help some guys reading this thread

figuring the surface area is easy, the problem is that SHINGLES are installed overlapping and I did not know the percentage wasted durring the average installation

http://www.pbs.org/teachersource/mathline/concepts/outdoors/Act1Solution.pdf
 
one square of shingles will cover 100 sq. ft.,,,,,,,,,,then add for the ridges....you should still get one extra square because of mistakes that could be made along the way......the color may change a little from one run of shingles to the next....so get more than enough.............Mike R
 
Measure from the peak down to the eve (gutter) multiply that by half the width of the eve. Now multiply that by 4 and add 20% if you are using three tab shingles for waste and caps. If you are using architectural shingles Add 10%. You will then need to measure the length of the four areas that need a cap. Depending what shingle you use a bundle will usually cover 33 lineal feet of cap. Just ask the guy you buy them from or read the package...15 lb felt covers 450 square feet. Don't forget drip edge (comes in 10 foot sections) and depending where you live Ice dam also known as Weathershield.
 
garage.jpg

heres the current state of my 36 W x74L x 16 foot tall garage
Ive got about $50,000 spent at this point, $20,000 was in just site prep work and plans the 3500psi slab ie 6" thick reinforced concrete, the 2x6 trusses and 50 year gauranteed shingles alone cost $10,000.
they tell me the walls and roof should be up within two weeks now
btw I ordered 37 sq of shingles, they require a 3 week order cycle lead time

garage1.jpg

todays progress

garage2.jpg

more progress
 
I had the same question when planning my garage, I worked with the building supply dealer and ordered what he suggested. My neighbor does roofing for a living and with archectual shingles there is a lot less waste. He did a lot of chalk line layout before the first shingle was laid. The waste I could hold in my 2 hands and I had 2 square of shingles left over, the Pro's know the tricks. Since my shingles were a special order I could not return them, so my wife has decided that we/I will be building a shed for law tools and other things that would clutter up a garage.


Best of luck
Chuck
 
The CAD design programs architects use these days produce all sorts of interesting trivia when it's requested; when we designed our new home five years ago and handed the floor plan off to the architect to create the engineering and construction drawings, elevations and custom 12/12 truss designs, he'd always have some trivia to pass along from the CAD system when we met weekly on the site. One day he said "you might want to note that you're going to have 12-1/2 tons of architectural shingles and 37,865 bricks" :D . Then he said, "No, I didn't count the bricks or shingles - the computer does that automatically". :)
 
garage3.jpg


got the walls up now, 74 feet long, 36 feet deep.16 feet tall, 2664 sq feet of floor space

and I got the roof trusses delivered today


"why did you buid a CBS VS a STEEL PREFAB building?"

I could have built a concrete slab/steel building of similar size for about $70,000 all parts/labor included
my current garage (CONCRETE BRICK) will cost me about $100,000 when Im done, I chose (CONCRETE BRICK)due to its increased hurricane resistant strength and the fact that it would raise property values significantly which a steel building does NOT!
even the best steel buildings are NOT PERMENENT compared to a POURED CONCRETE BLOCK STEEL RE-ENFORCED BUILDING
 
Looks great! Should be plenty stout enough, and I guess that's pretty important in your neck of the woods, especially after last year!

:beer
 
How's the progress coming along? Hopefully everything is on schedule for you.
 
Z28Canuck said:
How's the progress coming along? Hopefully everything is on schedule for you.

sorry for the delay the camera was out of order for a few days

garage4.jpg


more slow progress, btw Im loving this as its starting to look like a real garage now! keep in mind those doors are 8 feet tall and 16 feet wide the garage is 74 feet long and about 25 ft tall to the peak of the roof
 
as some of you know Im building my dream garage 36 w x 74l x 16h and Ill soon need STUCCO or TEX COAT, or some other exterior finish on the block surface, any ideas as to cost and what provides the best value will be appreciated, theres approximately 3300 sq feet or 367 sq yards of wall to be coated before I paint
can any one suggest cost/value ideas, things to look for? things to avoid? before I get taken for an expensive ride on this phase???
 
more slow progress,
the roofs tar papered, and soon to be shingled

garage5.jpg


need to find a good deal on quality garage doors


as some know Im building my dream garage, and one thing thats #$$% upsets me is #@$#$%^ who quote you a price, then when you go to buy the part they tell you either the price went up 100% or more or they tell you that the price does NOT include some major parts, or they can no longer supply it at the quoted price.

about 60 days ago I got WRITTEN quotes for two 8'3" x 16'
garage doors installed with openers that meet DADE COUNTY hurricane specs for about $3400 from TWO differant suppliers, now BOTH want $5700 or more for the same doors.

any suggestions as to suppliers of quality garage doors in the south fla area will help I need two 8'3" x 16'
garage doors installed with openers that meet DADE COUNTY hurricane specs
 
since we are talking about doors<hints at correctly installing security door? Ive got an access door to also install but I bought that already

while the metal SECURITY door I bought came with brief installation instructions, which Ill follow,but I thought Id ask if you guys had any hints

basically its a very heavy metal SECURITY door and matching frame and locks,security plates ETC. for my garage access door and it came with (6) 1/2 DIA, redhead style bolt/anchors that anchor drilled into the concrete, the frames hollow but made from about 1/8" folded metal frame as is the door (cost $500)
any ideas as to ways to strengthen the instalation, backer material,construction foam insulation?
yeah, Ive already installed security hinges and multipull security pins plus welded in internal angle iron bracing to prevent any chance of prying being successfully attempted, plus the garage has a security alarm with motion detectors, heat sensors,radio transmiter backup, and door contacts, what Im looking into mostly is securing the door to the poured concrete opening more effectively , now obviously Ill add several more concrete anchors but any more suggestions are most welcome
 
well Ive got 5 very noisy dashounds that let me know INSTANTLY if anyone even gets to the front gate and an AK47 if thats a help,


any garage can get broken into, my goal is to make it more difficult and slower than its worth,so far in the 8 years Ive lived here every theft in our developement resulted in someone caught and serious measures taken that prevented repeat tries
I have redundant security systems on my house, as do most people in my gated community,theres people on premiss 99% of the time as Im retired, my wifes retired,my mother-in-laws retired,(lives in the guest residence on the property) my younger son still lives here, Ive got a fenced yard, and dogs, I live in a community thats patrolled, by well armed security,24/7 /365 , (I know I help pay for that, and they drive by every few minutes and know all the property owners by name and thier vehicals )my neighbors and I are constantly in contact and theres other security measures I won,t mention, no one gets even into the community without video survallance records
only a complete fool makes things easy for theives, I prefer to make things VERY DIFFICULT, as money spent on redundant security systems prevents losses that could cost more in the long run.
 

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