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I was able to get my 62 running today

Thanks again to all


I am just home from work and heading out to the garage to pull the trans. I have a minor transmition line leak that I must repair but because the clearance is so tiny the trans must come out. This is a line that should have went in prior to the body drop but it seamed I had all the room in the world to connect it. I was able to tighten it with a crows foot but I am going to pull it down to double check it.

The joys of building a car. I dont mind building them but I hate going backwards or redoing something
 
Larry You're in trouble now!

I had to play you clip on my college son's laptop last night as I was having trouble with the sound on mine. After seeing... and hearing your car he wants me to build one just like it. He thought it was awesome and loved the color and the wheels too.
 
Larry,

I should have warned you about that one! I attached some stub lines to mine about 10" long and then used compression unions to attach the final hard lines to the cooler. After a couple of body drops, it was clear that attaching the lines would be a bear with the body on. Sorry.
 
John Mcgraw said:
Larry,

I should have warned you about that one! I attached some stub lines to mine about 10" long and then used compression unions to attach the final hard lines to the cooler. After a couple of body drops, it was clear that attaching the lines would be a bear with the body on. Sorry.

Yup its the 80/20 20/80 rule kicking in. It just as well the trans had to come out as the stub that comes off for the shifter linkage snapped off while I was finishing the shifter install. So now the trans is in the back of my truck and I will bring it to the trans guy tonight.

I had 2 visitors tonight who are in to hotrod building and the said there is just NO WAY the car will be done in time.

We will see.

I hate failure
 
studiog said:
I had to play you clip on my college son's laptop last night as I was having trouble with the sound on mine. After seeing... and hearing your car he wants me to build one just like it. He thought it was awesome and loved the color and the wheels too.

You know I have problems with it on my lap top but my home office computer it come wright up .

I just think it is too cool to be able to take a video with a digital camera smaller then a pack of cigerretes and be able to share it with other people. I mean this is cool stuff and even I can do it
 
trans cooler lines

Larry and John (or anyone else):

Since you bring up the subject of transmission cooler lines, I have a question for you. The automatic transmission that I am using in my 59 project was plumbed with hard steel lines but most of the aftermarket cooler kits come with flexible "rubber" lines. I have been told that the pressure in the trans cooler lines is less that 50 psi so is there any reason to stay with the hard lines?
Charles
 
Charles I am using steel braided lines (not the type that use's a standard hose clamp) but the high pressure airquip lines. I am done bending steel lines. I chose these because I am told they have a high bursting strenght,and once you make a connection properly they are there for life.

I chose a B&M fan assisted trans cooler.I was nervous about not having enough cooling in the radiator to handle the big block and did not want to add any more heat to it so I installed a seperate cooler just for the trans. I chose the fan assisted as I felt I could not have enough cooling for the trans as I know heat is the number one killer of transmissions .

I forgot what trans your using but,I would highley suggest to install a set of lines on it prior to getting the body mounted for the last time. I was able to tighten them but I was not able to really sqeese on them as I could not get a back up wrench on them.

Auiroquip makes a set of lines with a teflon tupe liner,and a stainless steel braiding on it,there fittings are a little difficult to deal with

earls make a rubber line with the steel braiding on it and there fitting are much easeyer to work with,but they dont have the teflone liner in them.

Good luck
 
Larry:

Thanks for the reply. I used the Aeroquip TFE hose on the power steering system on my wife's car so I'm familiar with that system. The regular Aeroquip AQP hose is rated at 1000 psi so I was planning on using it since it is a bit easier to work with.
Are you using a thermostatically controlled fan on your trans cooler?
I was thinking of mounting a long narrow cooler and an external filter on the passenger side frame rail, mainly so that the heat from the trans cooler would be away from the radiator.
I'm using a 4L80E transmission on my 59. I lowered the drivetrain as low as I thought was safe and I seem to have plenty of space to work around the trans.

Charles
 
Charles,

I used hard stainless steel lines for all but the last 4" into the cooler. This was done more for asthetics than anything else. I polished the lines to a mirror finish and clamped them with polished clamps, so they would look neat and clean. I had originally planed on using braided stainless on a lot of plumbing that I finally decided on stainless hard lines for asthetic reasons. There is no reason not to use hose for these lines. Larry, just keep banging away on it, and don't worry about the stuff you don't need to get it driving. You can always get stuff like the windshield wipers installed after you get back. Speaking of wipers, I was fine tuning my wipers this weekend, and found that 110 degrees of sweep is optimal. This will keep you from pulling the motor several times to set the sweep and check it. anything more than 110 degrees and the bottom of the wiper will hit the gasket at the bottom of the windshield, and anything less will not wipe the entire windshield.

Regards, John McGraw
 
John Mcgraw said:
Charles,

I used hard stainless steel lines for all but the last 4" into the cooler. This was done more for asthetics than anything else. I polished the lines to a mirror finish and clamped them with polished clamps, so they would look neat and clean. I had originally planed on using braided stainless on a lot of plumbing that I finally decided on stainless hard lines for asthetic reasons. There is no reason not to use hose for these lines. Larry, just keep banging away on it, and don't worry about the stuff you don't need to get it driving. You can always get stuff like the windshield wipers installed after you get back. Speaking of wipers, I was fine tuning my wipers this weekend, and found that 110 degrees of sweep is optimal. This will keep you from pulling the motor several times to set the sweep and check it. anything more than 110 degrees and the bottom of the wiper will hit the gasket at the bottom of the windshield, and anything less will not wipe the entire windshield.

Regards, John McGraw


Thank You John, any other tid bits on the install of the wipers?

I just left the tranny guy and the broken shifter tab is my fault.the connecter from lokar to attach the modul linkage is 3/8 th course american threads. the shaft that comes out of the trans is metric. I have to cut that barrel nut down and weld a metric nut to it in order for it to work .
 
Larry,

Lokar diddled you! I would call them up and chew them out! The shifter should come with the correct metric thread fittings, mine did. Lokar builds some nice looking stuff, but sometimes their quality control leaves a lot to be desired. They allways take care of the problem, but a lot of these problems should have been caught before they left the factory.
Wait until you try and adjust the neutral safety switch! It is a poorly thought out switch that will seldom lock out starting in both Reverse and Drive! The only way to get it adjusted is to shim the switch out from the shifter. Unfortunately, they do not supply any shims. They have had this problem for a long time, and it is still just as bad as it ever was! This was the item that made my car take off and almost took a nose-dive off the lift when the car started in drive. I should have known better but I did not check both reverse and drive!
The wipers can be a bear to install, but if you grind off a lot of the excess material around the corners of the transmissions, it will go a lot eaiser. You will see what I mean as soon as you try and insert one of the transmissions in place! I will try and get my camera under the dash and snap some pics of the installation.

Regards, John McGraw
 
Yes John they did give it to me . It seems the kit was supposed to come with a metric and a SAE barrel nut. I contacted them and tecnical support was excellent,I requested they next day air me a barrle nut. He then explained that I MUST fax him the invoice for the componet to prove I purchased it.And then they would bill me for it and the shipping and once I returned the 2 SAE barrle nut they would refund me the cost the metric barrle nut after it was inspected. I explained I do not have a chance to go home to get the invoice could he please ship it to me I would gladdley pay for the nut,and the shipping just ship it to me for tomorow.Again he said unless I have an invoice for the part he cant even sell me the barrle nut. This infureated me. I made my own tonight.

But if dont get the barrle nut tomorow as I had requested I am going to have my attourneys send them a letter seaking full restitution for the R&R on the trans and and the cost of having a new detent installed in the trans.

I never bark I only bite.The guy was very understanding and was going to ask the front office if he could accomodate me . I hope they do.

The saddest part is I still love there product and would recomend it to others.There products saved me hours of fabricating.

I chose there netraul saftey switch and back up lamp module as I want to add back up lamps to the car once I find a set I like.


Thanks for the advice on the wipers.Its funney but when you suggested just get done what needs to be done it was like my school teacher saying dont worry about home work this week. I fealt good for you to say that as It lifted some pressure off of me.

I also did not polsih my radiator as I am starting to hate that Baldor buffer. I snear at it every time I see it in the garage. last time I used it on the jack shafts it started to over heat and smell like it was overworked.That Greasey stripoli just digs right in and will stall the buffer if I really lay into it.last time I used it I looked like a chiminey sweep guy.My wife actually had to scrub my back and neck with my tire brush to get me clean.

Charles

the trans cooler has a built in thermostat that will bring on the fans at 175 and then off at 145,I should have it mounted tomorow night Ill shoot some pictures of it installed for you.

I have the trans back in the car.

Tomorow night I will test the display module and the netural saftey switch to assure I have them set proper and that the switch works proper.

Ill speak to you guys latter
 
Larry,

Talk to Debbie at Lokar. She is one of the owners, and will usually take care of issues if Denver over in tech support can't.

I know what you mean about the buffer! It is a love/hate relationship, you love the finished product, but just hate the mess to get it there! I just finished buffing out all the stainless trim on the 59 before intalling it, and made a real mess of the shop with all the lint and compound. At least it is not as messy as the aluminum with that greasy Tripoli compound! I am going to start grinding and polishing on the suspension pieces for the 65 project soon, but I will probably wait until the temp moderates a little, so I can move the operation outside where I don't have to worry about making a mess. After about 2 hours of buffing in the shop, the place is a mess and the Airconditioning filters are completely clogged.

You will really love that display module, and it is real simple to calibrate. The only real complaint I had about the whole setup is that there is very little metal to glue the boot to between the shifter hole and the display hole. Only time will tell whether the boot will pull out on this side of the hole. I could have used their large square boot ring, but I thought it would look out of place on this small tunnell.



Regards, John McGraw
 
Larry
if you are concerned about it being unsightly, can you fabricate a cover for it painted yellow so it will blend in more?
Personally I don't think it looks too bad - afterall it IS an engine compartment and not everything can be "pretty".
 
Larry:

I thought about putting the trans. cooler in the same place as yours but I was a little concerned about the proximity to the headers.
I also bought a Lokar shifter. It arrived without the shift rod but they sent me one with no hassle.
Charles
 
Charles

I am having problems understanding the Lokar shifters locking detents. it seams to lock out the 2 lowest gears unless you push in the button again. Mabee it will make sence once I start using it.

I dont like the rod they supply (but I understand its a univerals one) this winter I will bend up a steel rod and get some better hymes for it.

I have a list of brackets and parts I will send out to the chromer and the rod will be one of them.
 
BarryK said:
Larry
if you are concerned about it being unsightly, can you fabricate a cover for it painted yellow so it will blend in more?
Personally I don't think it looks too bad - afterall it IS an engine compartment and not everything can be "pretty".

I am working real hard and trying to make the engine bay as sanitary as possible, trying to hide the stuff that is not pleasent to look at.

Again this is a work in progress and the more I work on it the more I find to do.My main concern is to get the car driveable for carlilse. But I have made a cardboard cover as a template for that area and will purchase some up aluminum plating this winter.
 
IH2LOSE said:
Charles this is a picture of the cooler installed.its a little unsightley,but my trans should be safe from heat.

50796718-0b1f-02000180-.jpg


Here is a link to some other photos

http://www.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/app.pl/albums/large_image_view?id=3525533&link_code=sa01_17
Larry, I'm no expert at this but couldn't you run this up in front of the radiator? There's gobbs of room between the rad and the front grille with lots of open air flow and the longer run could give you more heat dicipation.
 

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