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IAC question

SPANISHVETTS

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
1,143
Location
El puerto de Santa Maria Spain
Corvette
before 60,63&82 now 90 383 Stroker & 91 ZR1-Sold
My 90 L98 w/automatic started idling at 1000-1800 RPM. It would shift to 2nd with my foot off of the gas. I cleaned the TB which was filthy. When I cleaned the IAC the pintle came unscrewed and fell off in my hand.

I screwed the pintle back in adjusted it to the correct length and reassembled every thing.

Now the idle is ok but I have a new worry.
Is it possible for the pintle to come unscrewed and be sucked into the motor?

I have ordered a new one. It will take it a couple of weeks to get to Spain. Should I park the car or is it safe to drive?
 
Hi there,
Your IAC bottoms on a chamfered hole, which it cannot pass through.
You are fine to drive it and enjoy. It will NOT be pulled into the engine.
Allthebest, c4c5:hb
 
Changing IAC

Hi,

I'd like to add a question to this:

How do you get teh IAC off without removing the throttle body?

I have tha IAC but have not been able to get it out as the socket will not slide over the part - part of the TB won't allow it.

I have no experience in mechanics and I fear removing the TB.

Thanks,

J
 
The Tb must be removed.
Have no fear. The TB removal, cleaning and replacement is a straight forward job. No need for me to go into detail, just do a search on this forum and you will find enough post about ¨how to¨ clean the TB to make you an expert.:CAC
 
Interesting point about the IAC pintel, too. Some folks claim it can't be cleaned and a new one is always needed. Others claim it CAN be. Go figure.

I've cleaned mine before by removing the TB then unscrewing the IAC. While pulling on the pintel and rocking it from side to side, it will come out.

I used carb cleaner and a toothbrush to clean the pintel and, with the opening facing downward, cleaned the interior as well. The trick is to keep the cleaning fluid from running into the area where the electricals are. Gravity works well.

Added a very, very tiny dab of WD and replaced it using a pushing motion while rocking.

There's a max amount it should extend (specific mm escapes me but I'm sure it's in FAQ) or email me and I'll dig out the service manual. There's a kind of convoluted zeroing procedure too, which I suspect is at FAQ too.

After cleaning it works fine, but then, it was working alright before I cleaned off all the carbon. I was doing a complete engine rebuild and figured "Why not".

When replacing the IAC, be careful because, as I've read, there are three different pintle tip shapes and only one of them matches the bevel in the TB.

Oh, yea, and while on the same subject: If you have to replace the connector, make sure you mark down which wire goes where BEFORE cutting off the old one. Draw yourself a picture using the connector's clip as a reference point.

Guess how I know that? Dumb, dumb, dumb.

The replacement I bought from AutoZone had all the wires colored black, so I had to asked EJ of Omaha (Vettes@ASU.EDU) to send me a chart showing which wire connects where.

Live and learn I say.

Just trying to help.

Jake
 

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