Ignition shielding assembly

[youwish2bme]

The mainfold will not make a difference in how you mount the coil as it is mounted to the back intake bolt if you use the correct shielding brackets. This really isn't rocket science it's just some shields and brackets. Dave.

 

[Ronald]

Sorry, you are right it is indeed 3919803. I have a holly carb on it. I don't have a digital camera (all my money goes into the car :L ). So I guess I should switch intake manifolds:cry ? How will I know if the stock manifold will fit on my motor (I think my block is from a 64)?

Finally any suggestions on where to buy the intake manifold? And, I guess the alternative is return the ignition shielding and forget about it. Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

[Ronald]

The mainfold will not make a difference in how you mount the coil as it is mounted to the back intake bolt if you use the correct shielding brackets. This really isn't rocket science it's just some shields and brackets. Dave.

Well this would be good news. So, you are suggesting I remove the coil from it's current location and I should find an alternative spot to bolt the bracket on? As John pointed out, the fact that my coil is bolted down on the driver's side would mean that this manifold must have come from a 68 Camaro (passenger car) rather than a 68 Vette. Do you think thgat makes any difference?

 

[Subfixer]

You should have no problem with the intake manifold you have. Remove the coil and it's bracket, and put the coil into bracket 1434 from the photo of the parts book that paul67 posted.

 

[paul67]

The correct cast iron intake is #3872783. They run $50-60 on EBay. But if the car is running I would not fool with it. You may run into choke design issues and the like. Just switch the coil over to the passenger side and install the shields.

 

[Ronald]

You should have no problem with the intake manifold you have. Remove the coil and it's bracket, and put the coil into bracket 1434 from the photo of the parts book that paul67 posted.

Ok, Throttle up, I'm off to the garage to give it a go .

 

[WayneC]

Paul, what catalog is that? (looks familiar)

 

[paul67]

Paragon's 1963-67 catalogue.

Actually I should have attributed copyright to them. So that's now done.

 

[Ronald]

As Supertramp would say "it's comming along." No problem moving the coil over. No problem with having the the main shield fit. Now I am a bit bogged down in the details as I put the shielding along the exhaust manifold. So a few questions please :confused .

1. Part 3393 and 658 (the rear chrome pieces), do they bolt onto anything (on the motor) besides the main shield?

2. I don't see where the side pieces bolts on to the exhaust manifold.

3. I am also not sure where parts 430 and 662 bolt into.

4. Finally, there is a thing called a "J" clip that came with the part 3393. where does that go?

Thanks.

 

[youwish2bme]

1. They don't bolt to the bottom they do go over 662 (L) and 430 (R) these are the lower wire guides, On the right side it does bolt to the cover for the 6 and 8 cover though. Probably not supplied but I just used some SS hardware to connect before installing. If you try to do it afterwards you will not be able..
2. Use the 1638k 1639k where it lists on the left of the page that these are included in the kit. They are just metal pieces that require the removal of the exhaust mainfold bolts to install. Then just bend them so the shielding looks correct (leave em loose until you put the shielding on then tighten)
3. The bolt to the block you should see a 1/4 x 20 thread hole for them about 3/4 of the way down the block between the heads and the bellhousing.
4. It's probably the one the attaches to the oil pan..

Dave..

 

[paul67]

I would take a deep breath - and use some care on the manifold bolts - before going further. Hit them with penetrating oil and wait a few days before trying to wrench them out. Canadian Tire has a few good products. (I haven't seen PB Blaster in Canada but there are equivalents.) The SNAP! sound when they break flush with the cylinder head surface is not good music. And then you are into major engine work.

Don't waste your time with WD-40. It is a silicone-based Water Dispersant (WD).

 

[Gerry]

Why do you think that is?



Gerry

It's amazing, isn't it, how much more complicated the SB shielding is compared to the BB?

:crazy

 

[67HEAVEN]

Why do you think that is?



Gerry

BB's are more for go than show? :confused

 

[Gerry]

So that's why I get 10-12 mpg on a sedate sunday cruise ?????

Gerry

 

[paul67]

OK, I'll try this one. The shielding had two purposes. One (distributor) was to prevent ignition interference with the radio. The second (spark plugs) was to block heat from the exhaust manifolds getting to the spark plug wire boots and the plugs themselves (rams' horns, over the plugs).

For #1, BB buyers would rather listen to their engine than the radio (slight exaggeration, the shield is there). For #2, the BB exhaust manifolds are below the plugs and allow for better cooling airflow. Besides I cannot see where plug shields could be located with those manifolds.

 

[Gerry]

Give the man a cigar! What little hearing I had prior to purchase of this car (Decades of Hard Rock) is now gone. In fact I couldn't hear the radio even if I wanted to.

Gerry

 

[youwish2bme]

Now we return to our normally scheduled program.. How did the shielding installation go today??

 

[Ronald]

Update - Sad story

Alright, here is the update. All was going well, I had the top cover and back shields on and thought I would crank it over just to make sure all was still well. As soon as I cranked it over, smoke started appearing from under the shielding :ugh . I shut the car off and now it is dead, dead as a door nail. Nothing works not even the interior light. :cry

Here is what I think happened. A small red wire leading to the coil had a bare spot where the wire had been joined together and that shorted out against the shielding. This in turn fried the resistor (the ceramic piece attached to the firewall). That resistor (not sure if that is what it is called) was extremely hot and smoking big time. So, I tested it and current no longer runs through it. So I am going to replace it.

Lesson learned: I should have taped the bare wire :duh

At a time like this it is hard to focus back on the job at hand, but I can not see how the side chrome pieces bolt onto the exhaust manifold. :confused

Also, if I bypass the resistor shouldn't my interior light come on? (I just wanted to see some sign of life.

 

[ctjackster]

as I said waaay up on p.1, "the brackets that hold the side shields (those that connect the rear spark plug shields to the big dist shield) attach to the block with impossible to see with your eyes where they go bolts that thread into the block."

These brackets also hold the gangs of four plug wires in a loom.


I admit that this is a real pita if you did not take the stuff off your car to begin with.

ps - I might have missed it, but do you have the heat shields on there already? 1 per two spark plugs . . . .

 

[Ronald]

as I said waaay up on p.1, "the brackets that hold the side shields (those that connect the rear spark plug shields to the big dist shield) attach to the block with impossible to see with your eyes where they go bolts that thread into the block."

These brackets also hold the gangs of four plug wires in a loom.


I admit that this is a real pita if you did not take the stuff off your car to begin with.

ps - I might have missed it, but do you have the heat shields on there already? 1 per two spark plugs . . . .

As you can tell I am really dumb on this one :crazy . I'll take another good look (it's just that I feel dumber every time I look. I am sure if I saw one in place it would all make sense, but I have never seen it (or paid attention to it). I am not sure if I have the shields you are referring to. What I bought is item #6219 from Corvette America (Ignition shielding set) Page 216 of their catologue.