Installing Windlace On C1 Kickpanels

[dennisb]

I'm getting ready to put on the windlace on my 61 kick panels. There's a good illustration in the AIM but I have a few questions.

How much of the windlace should extend beyond the kick panel at the top and the bottom. The top gets tucked under the dash end cap and the bottom under the sill.

What's the best way to put the staples in? The location of the staples from the windlace I took off are not at the locations specified in the AIM so I don't want to use them. I want to put the staples were they should be.

And of course, any valuable tips from someone who has already done this will be greatly appreciated.

 

[studiog]

I'm getting ready to put on the windlace on my 61 kick panels. There's a good illustration in the AIM but I have a few questions.

How much of the windlace should extend beyond the kick panel at the top and the bottom. The top gets tucked under the dash end cap and the bottom under the sill.

What's the best way to put the staples in? The location of the staples from the windlace I took off are not at the locations specified in the AIM so I don't want to use them. I want to put the staples were they should be.

And of course, any valuable tips from someone who has already done this will be greatly appreciated.

I'm in the same boat. But I have a question for you. What kind of paint did you use to paint the kick panels and are you happy with the results?

 

[John Mcgraw]

You will want to leave a couple of inches extra at each end. At the bottom, you will need just enough to capture under the sill plate, but wait on cutting it off until the windlace is fully installed. At the top end, you will want to take a razor blade, and carefully remove the stiching to allow removal of the foam core. You only want to capture the vinyl under the cap, not the foam. I would not worry too much about the location of the staples, and I usually just install them back in the original holes. Just take a sharp awl to poke through the kick panels and peirce the wind lace, and then install the staples through by hand and clinch them over with a small hammer.


Regards, John McGraw

 

[dennisb]

You will want to leave a couple of inches extra at each end. At the bottom, you will need just enough to capture under the sill plate, but wait on cutting it off until the windlace is fully installed. At the top end, you will want to take a razor blade, and carefully remove the stiching to allow removal of the foam core. You only want to capture the vinyl under the cap, not the foam. I would not worry too much about the location of the staples, and I usually just install them back in the original holes. Just take a sharp awl to poke through the kick panels and peirce the wind lace, and then install the staples through by hand and clinch them over with a small hammer.


Regards, John McGraw

Exactly the kind of tips I was hoping for. Thanks a bunch. Looking at the AIM, you would not get the impression that the foam should be cut away at the top but it certainly makes sense to do what you suggest. And the only concern I have with putting the staples back in the existing holes is that there were no staples around the curved portion at the stainless inserts. It didn't lay up against the edge very nicely and I felt that was a reason.

 

[dennisb]

I'm in the same boat. But I have a question for you. What kind of paint did you use to paint the kick panels and are you happy with the results?

I went with the lacquer. If you remember a previous post of mine I was debating using acrylic enamel but Ray (61Silver) and JohnZ comments helped me decide on lacquer. Overall I am very pleased. Though I think they would have gotten better had I done a better job of preparation. I had some problems the first time I painted. The paint actually wrinkled in spots. So I re-sanded, re-primed and did it all again. This time the paint didn't wrinkle, but there were spots that were real smooth and spots that were rough and slightly raised. The spotting reminded me of the color patterns of a cow. But wet sanding with 1000 grit knocked them down and they got pretty good.

Though I do not know what caused the problems, I suspect from articles I have since read that it's because I did not do a good job of prepping. I did not use any kind of wax or silicone stripper to remove Armorall or whatever silicone based product may have been on it. I simply sanded thinking that would take care of it. I've learned now that sanding actually pushes the silicone further into the material.

I also used spot putty to fill some of the deeper scratches the first time around. And even though I filled and sanded several times and it was smooth to the touch, it seems that the putty shrank just enough to be noticable when painted. So the second time around, I used a fiberglass glaze I got from the paint supplier to fill the cracks. It worked great.

The other thing I would do differently is to use 600 grit on the primer rather than the 400. If you look real close, you can see some sand marks.

One odd thing I have noticed concerns the package tray support where it screws into the console. Mine only has a top and bottom hole even though there is one in the center of the console. Pics I have seen of 61's show three screws not just two. So I think I'll be drilling a hole for a center screw.

 

[dennisb]

You will want to leave a couple of inches extra at each end. At the bottom, you will need just enough to capture under the sill plate, but wait on cutting it off until the windlace is fully installed. At the top end, you will want to take a razor blade, and carefully remove the stiching to allow removal of the foam core. You only want to capture the vinyl under the cap, not the foam. I would not worry too much about the location of the staples, and I usually just install them back in the original holes. Just take a sharp awl to poke through the kick panels and peirce the wind lace, and then install the staples through by hand and clinch them over with a small hammer.

Regards, John McGraw

John,

I checked it out last night. The vinyl portion of the windlace is almost the exact length of the kickplate (there is about 1 1/2" extra foam sticking out at the top). It doesn't seem to be long enough for extra vinyl at the top to tuck under the endcap without being short by that much at the bottom. It appears that it can be short of the end of the kick panel at the bottom by as much as an inch and still be tucked under the door sill. Is this how it should go? And what keeps the windlace against the panel at the top and bottom where there are no staples? Just the tightness from screwing the panel in place?

Would anyone have any pics they can share of what it looks like at top and bottom?

 

[John Mcgraw]

Dennis,

The sill plate goes up the kick panel at least 1", if memory serves me right. You need at least 3/4" of material left at the top, to tuck in under the dash end cap. sounds like they sure cut it close to not giving you enough windlace!


Regards,John McGraw

 

[dennisb]

Dennis,

The sill plate goes up the kick panel at least 1", if memory serves me right. You need at least 3/4" of material left at the top, to tuck in under the dash end cap. sounds like they sure cut it close to not giving you enough windlace!


Regards,John McGraw

The vinyl measures 25 1/2" and one end has an extra 2" of foam extending beyond the vinyl. The opposite end is stiched shut with one stich. Assuming the end with the extra foam is the bottom, it would fit under the sill easily if I opened the other end and tucked it under the dash end cap 3/4" The AIM illustration makes it look like it's the top that has the extra. Which way does it go?

 

[IH2LOSE]

I am waiting on my kick panel inserts so I can test fit my new kick panels I hope I did not make a mistake buy installing my dash end caps and trimming the dash pad I thought I was done with the end caps.

I should be doing this after tuesday my self.

I sure hope some one has a photos of a completed car on this board

 

[dennisb]

I am waiting on my kick panel inserts so I can test fit my new kick panels I hope I did not make a mistake buy installing my dash end caps and trimming the dash pad I thought I was done with the end caps.

I should be doing this after tuesday my self.

I sure hope some one has a photos of a completed car on this board

Will your kick panels have the windlace already installed? I've seen them come with everything installed (windlace, inserts, stainless) for a little under $400.00 for the pair.

A close-up photo of the end of the dash with the endcap on and one with the endcap off as well one at the bottom with the door sill off would be extremely helpful.

 

[IH2LOSE]

Will your kick panels have the windlace already installed? I've seen them come with everything installed (windlace, inserts, stainless) for a little under $400.00 for the pair.

A close-up photo of the end of the dash with the endcap on and one with the endcap off as well one at the bottom with the door sill off would be extremely helpful.

Dennis I have custom kick panels that allow for a 6 1/2" speaker to mount in them.all the stock components are supposed to mount on them. Ikeep you posted on what I find

 

[dennisb]

I am waiting on my kick panel inserts so I can test fit my new kick panels I hope I did not make a mistake buy installing my dash end caps and trimming the dash pad I thought I was done with the end caps.

I should be doing this after tuesday my self.

I sure hope some one has a photos of a completed car on this board

I'm trying to kick this to the top in case anyone that might have some good pics just missed it.