Just about the worse that could happened...happened.

[1KULC7]

As most of you know I thought I just about finished the restoration of my 1963 Coupe. The Engine still was giving me problems, just didn't sound right, hard to start, and seeing a lot of steam in the exhaust. A lot of valve tap, and engine sounded more like one from a old farm truck then a Corvette. Well I brought it back to the shop (beyond my skill level now) and had them drop the pan and look at the bottom end.

UUUGGGGHHHHH....the new cam shaft was toast, front lob was worn done completely, leaving the question of where did all the metal go? The coolent was leaking found some on the bottom of the pan, futher inspection revealed pinholes leaks through the walls in the block, and its just a plain mess. After closer examination, and long talks with the shop, I have decided to purchas a new long block from Engines Limited that will be broched, with my VIN and Engine build dates. The block is just plain gone, to little to sleeve, to much overall damage over it 40 year history, and it seems to have a ghost in it.

So I am back to square one again, purchasing a L-76 Engine, but this time I am going back to the solid lifters and rebuild it EXACT. Getting a long block, expensive but at least I will get it right and its pretested with a warrenty.

Wife was not very happy, but I must say very understanding in the matter. I will tell you one thing, by the time I finish this stupid car it will be a brand new Corvette without a doubt. Since the engine is coming out, I am now going to fix a few of the suspension items that don't really need are now going to replaced to NCRS Judging standards...

WILL IT EVERY END :W

 

[Rowdy1]

So Sorry........

I have a few questions that come to mind. Who assembled the engine, was it boiled, where are the "pinholes" in the block, was the engine run at a high RPM when started for the first time to break the cam in?
I'm puzzled by a few things you said here and I have to wonder how this engine was built and set up. Was it totally inspected for wear, mic the cylinder's check the deck height, etc? A crate engine "may" be the way to go but there are still 327's available if you should decide.
Have you made any progress on your quest for a trailer and tow vehicle or has the engine mishap shifted the wallet back to the car? Drop me a line if I can help in any way and keep us posted on the engine.

 

[1KULC7]

I pulled the engine originally, about two years ago. Broke it down to the bottom end, then sent it to an engine builder in Springfield, VA. He took then engine and told me he checked all of it out. He told me the cam had mild wear on the back lobs, and I should replace it. So I ordered a CRANE Express Cam with 271 lift. I also decided to replace the solid lifters with hydraulic. In the mean time, the engine builder found the bore was .60 over and the #5 cylinder was sleeved, but the cylinder lips were smooth. The engine builder rebuilt the heads. He also told me the crank and bottom end (less cam) was in good order.

So he installed the CAM shaft, at this time there was not water to be found in the pan or around the bottom end. He supposely broke int he CAM shaft, but after he installed the cam, we ran across many problems with the engine, the carb was not adjusted right, float problems, the fuel pump needed to be replaced, the rear main seals (which he replaced) leaked, and later on I found out he did not deck or magnaflex the heads like he said he did. When he did the heads I was on travel and they were painted and on the engine upon my return. We had several problems with head gaskets...and on and on. Even what I brought it to the "good shop" I am dealing with now, they found the bolts on the intake were not torqued down...

This time I took it to a very good shop, and the pinhole leakage was found on the cylinder holes after the block was disassembled. traces of antifreeze found inside the #2 and 4 cylinders and in the crankshaft area. It appears the metal also has gone through the engine causing addition problems.

I could send the block out and get it resleeved, magnaflex, decked etc...but then would it come back with more problems? After spending a good deal, of time and money on this engine, I am not willing to pump more money into something that I think is just plain bad. So thus I have ordered another 327 that will be completely refurbished and in excellent running order.

I hope this explains a little more details.


Regarding trailer and tower, I am still in the market, have made up my mind to purchase a 20 foot Haulmark, and most likely a Silverado Club Cab Diesel 2500 HD....but this will take place in a few more months (around May).

 

[Rowdy1]

Questions Answered

I didn't want to imply the engine builder didn't do his homework, but he didn't, at your cost. I hope your current builder knows what he's doing and the end result is nothing less than perfection which comes from experience.
Sounds like you're on the right track with the trailer and tow vehicle, only thing I'd consider different is a 24', more is better for storage, racks, tools, walking room etc.
Best Of Luck

 

[IH2LOSE]

Collin I am sorry for your troubles,


I hope the new motor serves you better then the last one,Good Luck

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Hang In there Collin,

We all experience cost over runs and things that don't work out correctly. I have so far had quite a bit of things not work correctly as you can see in my posts. Of course nothing as Major as your engine problem.

It is still frustrating to have to go back to square one I know. The Steering Box that I ordered from Fastcorvettes was a real dissipointment ....I made a misstake when torquing the Pittman Arm Nut only to damage the Ball nut because I did not lock the pittman arm in the vise but the box instead.

My Stupidity...!!! Not the Suppliers.

Rather then send it back to Fastcorvettes since it was my bad ..I sent it to my man Bill who took it appart to repair. Bill not only found some minor damage to the Ball nut ...(Which he could have repaired with new parts).. But Found out that the main Sector and gear shafts were Junk..!!! They had used some really bad internal's. So bad in fact that they had been ground on with a grinder and filled in with bronz in some of the teeth area. The edges of the teeth are factory hardened ...this had been ground off. Also the teeth were rust pitted and generally in bad shape.

Bill suggested not to use this box the way it was....As he said..It's Junk..!! So I ordered a brand new set of internals....$225.00..!!! So now I have $176.00 for a crapy Box from Fastcorvettes.... $225.00 for new parts... Plus $100.00 Shipping and Rebuild Labor ...That's $505.00 for This box from Fastcorvettes....

Heh.....I could have bought a new one from the start... My point is... This is the nature of the beast...Check out the pic's of the teeth

Hang in there...We all feel your pain...

What the gear should look like

And What I Got...

 

[richscorvettes]

Collin,

I know how disappointed you must feel at this point. But, you are going about it the right way and it should work out best in the long run.

Your choice of the 2500 HD with the Duramax/Allison is a good one. It makes a great tow vehicle.

Rich

 

[Stingray6974]

This may sound like a strange question, I'll explain later. What color was the gearbox? Were the splines on the pitman arm painted silver? When did you buy it?

Mike

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

This may sound like a strange question, I'll explain later. What color was the gearbox? Were the splines on the pitman arm painted silver? When did you buy it?

Mike

I bought the box a few weeks ago. The Box was painted black, Don't remember if there was paint on the pitman arm shaft.

 

[61 Silver]

Collin,



What happened to you is one of my biggest fears. I have purchased only matching number cars and as you know you pay extra for the correct components. I have an engine machine shop complete the work that requires special equipment and then complete the assembly myself. I am always nervous when I start the engine for the first time.



Good luck with you engine project!

Ray

 

[Stingray6974]

Since Fastcorvette is a supporting vendor here at the moment I have deleted my reply. I will be happy to answer any questions privately or by email.

Mike

 

[Stingray6974]

Collin,
Sorry for hijacking your thread. As for your engine I have to agree with Rowdy1.

Mike

 

[Subfixer]

Sorry to hear about your engine problems.. makes me worry a bit about the 327 in mine, though not the original, it's been bored .060 over and the cylinder walls look pretty thin at the bottom. Hasn't given me a problem over the past few years, but you never know....

My original shortblock is covered up in the corner of the garage.

 

[Subfixer]

Collin, check out this for sale post on the other forum. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1012439

Looks like he's got a standard bore 327 date K 28 2

 

[Denney]

Collin, that just plain sucks.:ugh What is really surprising is that a shop would have moved forward with a questionable block (magnafluxing and pressure testing the block would have protected both you and the shop from this unnnecessary problem). But then again, all of us who play with these 40 year old cars have lots of stories like yours...:duh

 

[BarryK]

Collin

just got back home from vacation 1/2 hour ago and saw your post.
That REALLY sucks about your engine!!
I almost had a similar thing happen - about 2 weeks after I got Baby last March my mechanic found what could have been a very mafor problem with my block (which is the orginal nuumbers matching block). Luckily the shop I bought the car from accepted responsibilty and was able to fix the block without us needing to replace it. If replacement had been required I would have returned the car and had to start my search all over again.
As it is, because I'm afraid of damaging my original motor, when I can afford to do it I am seriously considering pulling the motor and trans and dropping in a crate motor and 5-sp and storing the original motor and trans for the future. Unfortunatly that option is probably about 2 years off.

Good luck with the new block. I really hope it works out for you.

Barry

 

[Rowdy1]

Why?

Collin

just got back home from vacation 1/2 hour ago and saw your post.
That REALLY sucks about your engine!!
I almost had a similar thing happen - about 2 weeks after I got Baby last March my mechanic found what could have been a very mafor problem with my block (which is the orginal nuumbers matching block). Luckily the shop I bought the car from accepted responsibilty and was able to fix the block without us needing to replace it. If replacement had been required I would have returned the car and had to start my search all over again.
As it is, because I'm afraid of damaging my original motor, when I can afford to do it I am seriously considering pulling the motor and trans and dropping in a crate motor and 5-sp and storing the original motor and trans for the future. Unfortunatly that option is probably about 2 years off.

Good luck with the new block. I really hope it works out for you.

Barry

? :confused

 

[BarryK]

? :confused

sorry Rowdy, I'm not sure what you questioning......??

 

[Rowdy1]

I Guess..............

If you're concerned with the originality of the car, why not just get another engine and have IT ready in case the #'s matching goes. If you drive the car sanely it will last you a VERY long time, and if you're having the car NCRS judged to me, that's a different story but if you're living out a fantasy or a life long dream, so what? If you bought the car for an investment, park it in a bubble not to mention, there are SO many people being taken by "#'s matching" cars that are in fact NOT, it's apples and oranges. I am in NO WAY questioning your reason for buying or your use of, but if resale is that important, I'm not sure it's valid. It's only worth what someone is willing to pay for it and from what I've been reading on how you take care of Baby and the work you're having done now, you may already be in way over what you'll EVER get out of her, my point being, drive it with pride, you earned it, and damn the ones that frown when you say, it's NOM.

 

[Tom65L76/96LT1]

Collin,sorry about your engine problems,a story like yours is the exact reason i finally sold my 65 roadster,i had owned it since 1990,it was a very nice #2 driver quality car restored back to its original appearence,but it was always something,most of the time minor things on a few occasions major,after 14yrs the car just wore me down and i threw in the towel,sold it the day before Thanksgiving last year,watched it go down the road on the trailer and i can honestly say i have not missed it for one second,will i ever own another "classic" doubtful,i am still interested in them,enjoy the shows and swap meets and talking with others about them, i just do not have an overwhelming need to own one,i have my 96 roadster,Pologreen/Saddle top and interior,LT1-300hp with auto trans,32K original miles,it looks terrific,fun to drive and it is all i need,hope your new engine takes care of things for you and i can fully understand what you are going through and how the $$$$$ just flys out the window. Tom in Apple Valley Minnesota