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Ken's Engine Project... Part III - 2003

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Ken, I looked at the pictures of your vette and it and the motor is looking pretty good! How far along are you in your project; is it nearing completion or are you still in the middle somewhere. What do you have remaining to do to it???
 
Once I get the oil leak fixed, it's simply a matter of taking it out on the freeway to dial it in while under load, then it's off to the dyno for to finish that part of the tuning.

I should get it back over to Scott's shop next week to repair the floors around the roll bar, then I can finish reinstalling the interior.

But we know it will never really be done, there's always something else - just need more money. :L

Chris, I noticed last night coming home in the dark that my gauges aren't illuminating a whole lot. It's bad enough that you can't really read them. Is it possible to install the lighting in the gauges so that the bulb isn't facing the dial? Chris Corsello, the electrician, installed the gauges and I'm wondering if that is what he did, and now I gotta turn 'em around. :confused

_ken
 
Right on !!!:cool :upthumbs
How did you do the sound bit, I have been wanting to do mine with the Hooker side pipes there seems to be a lot of interest in them in the C-3 section.
still need to do the alternator yet I see(or hear):L
you may want to go as big amp wise as you can to keep the voltage up and the bigger the battery the better
really glad to hear it run, maybe someday I'll get a ride.
Craigsr
 
The alternator's ok Craig, it was just the first start-up of the day and it just needed a few more cranks. (I let off the key too soon the first crank. ;)) I wish I would have recorded it with the open headers, but I'll get that someday. :L

I simply took the laptop to the garage and used MS Sound Recorder, the built-in software that came with the computer.

I should have warned y'all that the first 5-6 seconds are blank due to the time it took me to hit the "record" button and then get to the ignition switch. By the way, it starts just as it should - I can stand outside of the car and just reach in and turn the key. :cool

_ken
 
sounds nasty ken don't think i would want to meet you at the next traffic light good going all the work is paying off lets hear the road kill stories steve :beer :_rock :w
 
This is what I've gotta deal with yet:





I have a feeling this one originates at the transmission collar. My nice new coated headers... :cry



Origin of the front leak. It's gotta be the pan but it's also very hard to see.



A closer look:

 
Nice and nasty(I'd think twice at the light!! How 'bout some WOT?
 
Ken,

Let's think that oil leak through.

When does it do it?

1. Drips all the time, engine on or off
2. Drips only when you drive it
3. Drips when you throttle it, moving or not

If it is coming from the engine, there are a couple of key spots.

1. Any of the screw in plugs on the back of the block. Often times the engine builder forgets to tighten them (around the back of the cam).

2. Rear main

3. Where the intake meets the block in the rear

4. The oil sending unit (which you need to really look at).

5. Valve cover


Is the clutch acting funny? It almost looks like you are getting oil in the bell housing and it is slinging it out the clutch linkage/lever hole on the bellhousing an onto the header.

I hope it is not the trans. Considering I just got the same thing for my machine. Is the trans too full?
 
69MyWay said:
Let's think that oil leak through.
... drips all the time, engine on
Only with the engine running, and then it is a pretty steady trickle from the center of the front of the pan/timing cover area. It drips onto the crossmember and puddles, that's why you see the spread the way it is. ;)

That's only dealing with what's coming from the engine; the rear I'm beginning to wonder about now. If you look at where it's getting on my collectors, it makes you wonder how it got there.
... back of the block
... back of the cam
... rear main
... where the intake meets the block in the rear
... oil sending unit
... valve cover
Nope, nope, nope, nope, and nope. Back of the block was clean and dry when we had it out. Everything was clean and dry at the time. Still is. ;shrug
Is the clutch acting funny? It almost looks like you are getting oil in the bell housing and it is slinging it out the clutch linkage/lever hole on the bellhousing an onto the header.

I hope it is not the trans. Considering I just got the same thing for my machine. Is the trans too full?
The clutch does not seem to be affected. It doesn't slip or anything, and I'm not losing hydraulic fluid. I was low on tranny fluid, but when I filled it while the engine and tranny was out, the tranny was out of the car on its side. I filled it to the prescribed amopunt shown in the Richmond manual - to the level it should be, just where it starts dripping back out of the fill hole, but maybe it wasn't enough. Ya know, come to think of it, it was low when we took it out of the car. Hmmm... I'll be sure to keep an eye on the lube level in the tranny.

I'm positive that I tightened the bolts on the collar and installed the gasket, but then ya never know - I'm an idiot sometimes; I also installed the pan, on an engine stand with the engine upside down. I mean, HOW could I screw that up? :eyerole

_ken
 
So, the front is still leaking too.

Remember when Killer was leaking, I could have sworn the leak was mid to rear of the block. I had taken special care when building the engine on the stand to seal it all up tight.

As you recall, the leak was actually between the timing cover and oil pan. It would virtually pour out of there under revs, then the wind would push it back.

My starter stayed soaked in oil during that time. That is why I focused on the back of the block.

It all had to do with the difference between the fancy oil pan and timing cover and the high dollar once piece rubber fel pro pan gasket. I had to cut the front out of the one piece gasket, and substitute one of those single rubber front sections and plenty of sealant to get it to stay dry.

This of course after pulling the trans, the pan, the valve covers, the fuel pump block off plate, front accessories, front seal...etc.

Listen, I know how depressing this is. Not to mention the mess it leaves on the floor and pan of the car.

The potential trans leak really surprises me. I am sure you did it right, but if that trans was tilted when you filled her on the floor, it could be overfull, and the leak is just trying to get it back to the proper operating location.

I sure wish you lived closer. We could stay at it until we got it right. Misery loves company, and this kind of stuff is miserable. You saw my other thread. I can't get the 383 in the 85 to run worth a flip. I am afraid to look under it for fear of a huge puddle of oil there too!
 
69MyWay said:
I had to cut the front out of the one piece gasket, and substitute one of those single rubber front sections and plenty of sealant to get it to stay dry.

I'm really trying to avoid pulling the pan again, but it appears as though what you describe is what is happening with mine. It'll be easier to try to figure out when I get it back on a lift.

I wish ya was closer too Chris. :L

Thanks for the compliments and encouragement Sherry. :upthumbs
 
Hi Ken

Sounding Good !!!!

ON your oil leak saga, I had exactly the same problems which also turned out to be the seal between the timing cover and sump. It depends what you want to do, I tried new gaskets and eventually a new timing cover all to no avail but I did get it down to a reasonable level. The underside of the car was completely covered in a film of oil. Now surprisinly this was no bad thing as it act as a good rust inhibitor, not a problem in So Cal maybe but we get very damp winters in England and even with the car in a good garage any untreated metal will gradually rust. So when I stopped it from pouring out and got a small weep I just left it.

I figure that unless I run them over no one will see the underside but it does depend on how much of a perfectionist you are about keeping you car clean.

J.
 
Ken
Your leak is worse then mine, but appears to be in the same spot, I had to make a new fuel pump blockoff plate, the aftermarket one wouldn't seal properly. I still have a small leak which I think is coming from the seal between the Moroso pan and Edelbrock timing cover. I had it on the lift yesterday it looks like the oil is coming from there, but I need to clean it first to be sure.
as for the trans, I would call richmond and ask their advice, it may be just over filled. usually there is a vent or bleeder hole somewhere above fluid level that if you are overfilled it will come out of when running.

ps you should move a little further east:)
 
Thanks John, we all seem to be coming to the same conclusion about the pan/timing cover being the culprit. We'll see (soon I hope!).

Craig, the fuel pump block-off plate area is dry as a bone - already checked that and the hole in the front (that bolt's in there tight too ;)). I'm sure the front is due to a pan leak, the rear I'll figure out soon.

Oh, and I don't wanna move back east. :( I grew up not far from you in western Pennsylvania, mid-way between Pittsburgh and Youngstown, where we used to go to the burlesque houses when we were underage. :eek

I've always been one of those who heard the call - "Go west young man!" and finally did about thirty years ago; I like the sun. The people... People are the same everywhere, but I'm not gonna go into that now. :L

_ken :CAC
 
Ken
my wife saw the picture of your leak an said "his is much worse then yours" :L I grew up in NJ and lived there until 1994 when the GM plant I worked at was put on the closing list, I took the first "boat out" and transfered to the Defiance, Ohio plant. I like the quiet country life.
I am sure you will figure it out, at least now I know where my leak is coming from and next oil change I will drop the pan and silly-cone it good
Craig sr
 
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