Ken's Engine Project... Part IV - 2004

[Ken]

Well, I'm still cookin' the #7 boot, even with the tape around both the header tube as well as the spark plug boot itself. :eyerole

'Splain this one for me if you can: Accel doesn't carry a "shorty" plug for the aluminum head version of the 350 but does carry one for the iron head version. Now that's all fine and good, but why do they make a shorty plug for the '97-'01 LS1 (P5265) which has aluminum heads, and I would assume the same requirements for a projected tip plug as the old small block.

I gotta find a plug with a short head. Lawnmower shop, here I come!

 

[WhalePirot]

I bought a set of Accel shorty plugs and they protruded the same length as Bosch plugs.

To answer your prior question, the Bakelite sits next to the header wrap, touching. Air seems the best thing to prevent arcing. I will likely cut back the wrap.

I've not much time on the car since the brake project, so dunno if this is the solution. If not, I'll pursue the alternatives mentioned.

 

[Ken]

I have to figure out something that I can do that doesn't use a boot around the terminal. Here's what I have to deal with even after the modifications I made to the header tube:

I really don't want to bang on the tube again in order to gain more air between the plug and the tube, because then I'd destroy the coating I had replaced after we made the initial modifications. :duh

 

[bill mcdonald]

Jacobs boots

Ken, I fried up a set of the MSD super conductor wires in 5 minutes on my 90.

I have the AFR 190 heads with the L-98 angled plugs.
I had ceramic coated headers on it, with heat wrap on those headers. the MSD would surive on that for some reason.

When I put the stock exhuast manifolds back on it to pass a certain test, it burned up my wires in minutes. (with pre cats = extra hot.)

If I ran it hard a little bit my stock exhuast would glow red when I popped the hood at night.

I went to the jacobs wires with the ceramic boots, they have been on there for 2 years. never had a single problem with the boots. even with red glowing manifolds.

I did lose a wire. so I cut off the jacobs wires (I think are kinda junky) drilled out the wire from the ceramic boot, and glues in a set of MSD super conductors. Now they are good as new. well, I think better then new.

I highly recomend those jacobs boots to anyone who is burning up boots.
I also think it is almost cheaper to buy the wires as a set, then to buy just the boots they sell seperate.

 

[bossvette]

I have to figure out something that I can do that doesn't use a boot around the terminal. Here's what I have to deal with even after the modifications I made to the header tube:

I really don't want to bang on the tube again in order to gain more air between the plug and the tube, because then I'd destroy the coating I had replaced after we made the initial modifications. :duh

Do you remember "raja" clips? I dont know about the spelling, but long ago they were the hot ticket and most likely will not work since you are arcing, they didnt have any insulation on them.but were made with bakalite.

 

[Ken]

I gotta find someone local who stocks Jacobs stuff, Bill; I want to take a look at the boots before I throw more money away. Jacobs mentions something about "clips" Craig, maybe they're similar to the old raja clips.

I did pick up some more Thermo-Tec heat sleeve stuff today, along with a pair of sleeves that leave an air-gap between the wire and the sleeve, thereby increasing the heat resistance ability. Maybe it'll work, maybe it won't.

Another thought that crossed my mind was that I seem to remember some type of grease or something similar, that would prevent arcing, and I wouldn't have to run a boot at all. But I'm probably out of my mind, eh? :crazy

 

[widebody]

Hey Ken, I just happen to have one Rajah "vari-angle" terminal in my tool box. It's not doing me any good, so if you want I can throw it in a envelope and get it out to you. Might be worth a try.

Terry

 

[Ken]

Sure Terry, that'd be great! You still have my address?

 

[widebody]

I'm pretty sure it's in my email. I'll put it in the mail in the morning.

 

[Ken]

Thanks Terry, I sure do appreciate that. :cool

 

[widebody]

Not a problem, I have everything but your zip code, dont know how I deleted that part but let me know and it will be out tomorrow.

 

[Ken]

90254-3642

 

[widebody]

In the mail tomorrow, hope it works for you.

 

[Ken]

... hope it works for you.

Me too Terry, me too.

Thanks again!

 

[Ken]

Terry, I think we're on the right track with the rajah clips. I'd say for sure we were on target if the porcelain part of the boot went just another 1/8" or so toward the plug, then I'd know I'd be alright.

I think this will fit in there just fine, and when combined with some 2000° tape helping, I think we beat the "boot melt."

In researching "rajah clips", I came across this item from Jim Wangers' The Royal "Bobcat" site:

8-Rajah Clips, 8-Spark Plug Boots = $25.00

Only twenty-five bucks! Can't touch them at that now, but then, $25 was a lot of cash back then for a poor hot rodder.

Check out Wangers' site; it's interesting reading.

Thanks again for the rajah clip, you need anything I got? I have lots o' stuff left over; I just can't afford much in the way of shipping costs - know what I mean Vern? :L

By the way, what is the correct method for attaching the clip to the wire? I see a post in there, does it simply bury itself into the wire under the insulation? :confused

 

[widebody]

If I remember right, the post is actually fine threaded and is meant to screw into the center core of the wire. The actual conductive part of the wire is in the center. So I think you just remove the old boot and clip and twist the rajah into the center core. You may have to skin the wire a bit since you have those big mother Taylors. Practice on a junk old wire first and use an ohm meter to check of continuity. Hope that it works!

 

[Ken]

Cool. Thanks again buddy, and if you ever need anything, don't be afraid to ask.

 

[Ken]

I'm at my wits end ...

C'mon people, let's put our heads together and figure this one out.

Why does my oil temperature rise when I am cruising at around 3500-4000 rpm? Around town and in traffic, even on a hot day such as today, the oil temperature runs right around 235-240°, but if I run the engine at higher rpms the temperature starts to rise until I'm looking at 275° or more! The coolant temperature at this point is usually right around 210° which is obviously fine.

If the oil temp starts getting high, all I have to do is lower the rpm, or slow down, and the temperature returns to normal shortly thereafter. I cruised around today for a while and got it up to normal (240° ) operating temperature, and then hosed the cooler down with cool water, and the oil temp started coming down immediately. This indicates that my oil cooler is installed and functioning properly, right?

Will suggested that I add a fan to the front of the cooler, but geez, ain't it right out there in front of everything as it is? How much more could I blow on it? :L

The lines to and from the cooler are wrapped with Earl's Flameguard too.

Why on earth am I having this problem? Surely we have an expert, or someone who has experienced this puzzle before. :confused

In my little squeaky "Fly" voice... Help me, help me... :L

 

[-=Jeff=-]

Ken,
Does the Oil cooler kit you have use a thermostat or something for the oil? Does the oil have to flow a certain way through the cooler? Maybe the flow is constricted somewhere.

 

[Ken]

Yeah Jeff, it's got a thermostat built in to the adapter, and the thought crossed my mind that it may be sticking, but wouldn't the test with the water that I performed today, negate the possiblity of a stuck thermostat? :confused

There are no restrictions that I could see.