Ken's Engine Project... Part IV - 2004

[Ken]

Ya know, in mulling this over last night as I tried to sleep, I remembered that the coolant temperature was still in the normal range when the oil temperature was high. That made me wonder if Terry is more on the mark with his suggestion that the oil cooler adapter is transferring heat. I mean, around town the headers certainly aren't glowing red, but when I was running up that hill with the revs up around four thousand, the headers were probably pretty red, and that may be transferring the heat to the adapter.

 

[WhalePirot]

Gesundheit, Joe!

I agree with the last, Ken. I also wonder if the TPIS cooler switch is really worth the potential problems. I run the factory oil cooler and see 250, but have not seen hotter. I don't think it switches in or out. I don't have much more road time than you.

Also concur; when I ask for the horses this beast can serve up, the heat is tremendous! My water temperature never climbs all that much, when the fan is kicking in as it should. My 406 is computer and static set at 10 degrees.

 

[Ken]

I looked around today, and I doubt very seriously if any heat is transferring to the cooler adapter, or anything else for that matter. The knock sensor wire is as close, if not closer, to the headers as is the oil temperature capillary tubing. Also, as stated, both of the oil lines are wrapped. Leaves me with the thermostat as a possible bad actor. Hey, how many other brand-new parts have I already gone through that were bad actors right out of the box. Ol' Man Murphy ain't got nothin' on me!

Why else would the coolant temperature be normal while the oil temperature is skyrocketing? Remember, this cooler isn't tied into the radiator as was the stock unit; it's an independent item. Besides, that wouldn't make any difference, because we still are dealing with two different temperatures in the same work environment; i.e., the engine under exactly the same conditions. If it isn't a defective thermostat, it's gotta be a defective gauge.

 

[WhalePirot]

I have found that insulation works, for a while, to keep heat out. Then it does an even better job of keeping it in and ON the very parts I am trying to insulate. If it's not too hard to do, I'd surely try bypassing the thermo switch in the cooler.

I know the temps are measured in the same environ, but they sure seem to run a lot differently. Once warmed up, my oil is ALWAYS a lot hotter than the water.

 

[Ken]

Oh yeah, I know that Mike, but not to this extreme. :L

 

[SPANISHVETTS]

Your oil temp should be at least 210º; the optimum operating temp is 220. Synthetic oil will survive at 250 – 260 for sustained periods of time so this should not be a problem.

Where is your oil temp sensor? If it is in the oil filter bracket you could be picking up a false reading, your headers are going to be really close to it.

Try Evans Waterless Coolant. I know that I have pitched this product before but it works great for me. It takes the beast 15 min. to get into closed loop mode on a 70º day and I have never seen the water temp touch the 200º mark.

 

[Ken]

The coolant temperature was right around 190° and ... I'm running synthetic, so there really isn't a problem, yet.

The sensor goes right into the top of the pan "wing" on the driver side. Nowhere is it close to the header.

I almost put Evans NPG coolant in it when I put the engine back in this time, but changed my mind (with a little help from Will - weighing cost against practicality; what if I had problems out in the boonies?).

:s

 

[Ken]

... sure would like to find some bakelite boots, like the ones I used on my LS-6. Maybe a VW shop.

Is this what we need Mike?

Beru Spark Plug Connector — resistant to vibration, resistant to high temperatures and high voltages.

Technical Features

• Resistant to high voltages up to 40,000 Volt
• Resistant to high temperatures
• Absolutely waterproof
• Resistant to corrosion
• Resistant to vibration
• Reliable connection system
• Manufactured to OEM quality
• Suppressed in accordance with the requirements of the vehicle manufacturers (VDE standard)

Here's what I'm still doing to mine, even with the covers over the boots:

I actually had two of them arcing when I checked it today; the usual suspect, #7, was burned through because that one is almost touching the tube. The other one was #8 which had never given me a problem before; it's not even that close to the tube.

 

[Ken]

Oops! Wrong item in the previous post - my mistake.

This is what we're talking about, right Mike?

From Jacob's Electronics:

Pro Fit Ceramic

The same superior heat resistant ceramic boots, but available in a kit that allows the customer to finish the spark plug wires to the correct length "in the field."

Using Jacobs Uni-Clip technology, the customer can achieve a high quality "factory" like finished end! Ideal for custom engines, boats, and RVs. An ideal track side accessory for the serious racer just in case they need to quickly make up a replacement wire!
Uses Jacobs 8.5 mm silicone jacketed, spiral wound metal center cores with super low resistance. Available in straight or right angle!

Dealer Information

Turns out you can get 'em when you're in Alaska, at MULDOON SHELL (907 333-7750) in Anchorage.

 

[Moonunit 451]

Ken, how old are those MSD's? I got a new set ready to go on. Are you jist replacint the boots with the Jacobs or what? I don't really want to fry a $100 set of wires! Mine are 8.0 MM though.

 

[Ken]

The wires, and boots, had way less than 500 miles on them each time I fried them (this isn't the first time - but it is the first since modifying the header tube and using the heat shields )

As for the wire, according to Jacob's, 8.5mm is the optimum thickness because it retains all the spark energy. Wires thicker than 8.5mm slow down spark travel because they introduce too much capacitive loading (the electrical equivalent of inertia).

 

[bossvette]

question: are the wires being burnt because of the heat of the headers or is the spark arcing through. Electricity takes the path of least resistance so try running a ground wire from each head (10 or 12gage)to your ground wire from the block to the battery.
I assume you have a heavy gage from your battery to your block along with the stock ground to the frame? Some ignition companies even recommend a ground from each head to the - side of the coil, yours looks to be a hot setup, check the instructions and see what they recommend. Perhaps change brand of spark plug or tighten up the gap a little.

 

[Ken]

Oh, it's the header heat that's killing the boots alright Craig. It's really close at #7 still, even though we modified the tube.

As for grounds, I did add an extra ground cable at the engine block to the frame when I relocated the battery.

 

[bossvette]

try "shorty" plugs you may have to order them special but I know at least Accel makes them

 

[Ken]

I may be forced to go with them, or one of them at least, at the #7 hole. It's really close in there yet.

I initially did not use the Accel shorty plugs because if I remember correctly, they were not available in the long tip style (3/4"), which is what Edelbrock recommended for the heads I have. I should have never switched head choices and I wouldn't have this problem. I can't even remember why we switched head choices, but I'm sure it had to do with flow characteristics and what I had planned for the engine.

The shorty-style plugs appear to be a choice now if this picture is any indication:

I found that picture at Sallee Chevrolet because I couldn't find anything on the plugs at the Mr. Gasket (Accel) site!

 

[ErnieN85]

Ken, Just read you post about oil temps. here is some more to think about. high rps add to the heat (over 2000) and a new engine is tighter! i had high oil temps for about 20,000 miles, I broke it in with Mobile one after the first 500 miles. and it is still gaining power at 60,000 but some where between 10& 20,000 the oil temps settled down to normal. now around town in winter oil rarely hits 180 and on the track it seems to top out about 270. on a hot day it runs about 210-230 depending on how long & hard I run it. give it some time to break in!

 

[Ken]

Thanks Ernie. :cool

Now, for something completely different... Well, not really different, considering my luck all-in-all. :eyerole

Today Rick came by to upgrade the computer's firmware and wouldn't ya know it, the friggin' thing crashes in the middle of doing its thing! Now we gotta send it back to Electromotive to set things right. To tell you the truth, I have no idea of what it is they must do and why Rick can't do it. It must have really ****ed up the program or something. :eyerole

There's a black bird on the telephone wire
And a black fruit in the tree
There's a black cat with it's tail in the fire
There's a black cloud over me.

 

[ErnieN85]

Well................. Darn! you 'll get it eventually. all projects have bugs the bigger the project the more bugs!...........and you have a real whopper going there.

 

[bossvette]

Boy I feel for you Buddy. I have what I think may be one of the first Holley Commander 950 units ever sold and althou it is not as Hi tech as yours it has been trouble free.

 

[Ken]

Okay, I ordered a set of these today, along with a couple of replacement boots of course.

Full Metal Jacket Shields

• Fully polished aluminum
• Available in 90°, 135° and 180° configuration
• Provides heat protection beyond our finest boots
• Pair packed
• Fits most boots, including Taylor Pro Boot

Let's see if that works.